az2500

I just got back from Moab UT and have a question about my tire PSI. I have 34" BGF AT tires and they say that the max psi is 65. My 08 truck says to run 60Front and 70 rear. Where should I set my tires at for the best towing? Will the TPMS light stay on if you don't run at the factory psi? I was fighting this the whole trip.

Ryan

drewallen42

The recommended tire pressure is for stock tires, not the aftermarket BFG's. I have the same tire and run 65lbs when towing.

surfram

I also run 65psi when towing. This is the max psi for my 305/65/17E BFG AT KOs.

Kowalski

I run my BFG's at max pressure on all corners all the time. Never know when I have to hook on a trailer. Makes the ride alittle crisper but thats the nature of the beast.

az2500

Thanks for the replies. It looks like 65 psi it is then.

Ryan

.boB

This question comes up a lot. The correct answer is that you need the proper pressure to create a flat contact patch.

Underinflated tires overheat and explode.

Overinflated tires decrease the size of the contact patch, decrease traction (think emergency braking and avoidance manouvers), and increase wear.

1-2-3

I've got E rated BFG's and run them at 80 at all times.

.boB

If you have even tire wear across the width of the tread, that means you're pretty close to proper pressures.

The down side of that is you're at max rated pressure. If you hook up a trailer or load up the bed, the tires are overloaded. You don't have any additional capacity.

WhiteMule

That just reminded me that I need to put some more air in my tires tomorrow before I hook up the 5er. I usually run max. pressure when towing but air down when empty. Helps with ride and tire longevity.

1-2-3

If you have even tire wear across the width of the tread, that means you're pretty close to proper pressures.

I have gotten good wear out of them.

The down side of that is you're at max rated pressure. If you hook up a trailer or load up the bed, the tires are overloaded. You don't have any additional capacity.

Running them lower and adding air as needed will never magically increase any capacity. Max weight rating at 80 psi is all you get.

CD in NM

I run mine at 55 on all 4 corners - press tested when cold. I rotate them at every oil change - 7500 miles. Tire wear is even across the footprint. I have had excellent lifespan out of these tires, never a problem with them. I tow GN and BP loads ranging anywhere from12K to 28K.


CD

az2500

I was running at 45 psi front and 55 rear and didn't have much trouble. However my gas mileage was pretty bad. The overhead was reading 8mpg! But that was doin 65 with a 40mph headwind. My buddy was only getting 9 in his jeep on the same trip. I was towing my Jeep and the top was broke so it was done on the trailer.

.boB

You're missing the point. Proper air pressure is whatever it takes to make a flat contact patch. The more weight on a tire, the more pressure you need to achieve your goal.

If the tire is over inflated, or under loaded, then the tire tread bulges out in the middle. If it's under inflated or over loaded, then the center of the tire caves in, and it forms a U shape, with most of the weight on the outside edges.

If you have perfect wear at 80 psi on an empty truck, your tires are at max load. When you hook up a trailer or add weight to the bed, now the tires are overloaded or under inflated. They have a tendencay to over heat and explode. But you don't have the capacity to add more pressure to achieve your goal - the flat contact patch.

But, it's your truck, do whatever you want. Me, I'll follow the science.

jamesbfishin

Unloaded i run 65 up front, and 55 out back, gives nice flat wear on all 4 corners, with the boat, I'll bump up the rear to 65

SuperGewl

I guess most of you don't even look at the door sticker on your trucks and you don't even look in the glove box at the trie pressure addendum. Mine states for the stock tires 65 front and 70 rear for towing on the door and 65 front 75 rear for towing in the tire addendum. I guess my 1 ton is different than all the others