morkable

I'm home for the weekend

morkable

Hey mike what do you want for those rods and pistons?

Tate

Ha ha, I heard what you did!

StealthDiesel

While none of us have unlimited budgets, the only advice I can offer is that everytime I have cheaped out or taken any kind of short cut with my car projects over the years it's cost me nothing but time and money.


Since the head comes off the Cummins so easy without yanking the engine, I think in your case I would built a max effort short block now.
Drop it in & forget about.
Then you can drop on a basic head & turbos you already have, upgrading those as budget allows. You might end up with mismatched parts (heads, turbos etc) for now but at least you can get the truck running & sorted out while planning the next upgrade. The head, turbos, injectors are so easy to change out.
And hopefully never have to pull the engine/shortblock again for a long time.


I think you have addressed any other weakpoints in the truck already: trans, fuel system, suspension, roll cage, safety equipment, etc...


Just my thoughts...

morkable

Update on what I have going on.... Brett/Mike are going to put the engine together (thanks guys) I am going to buy the R&R rods that mike has.. I am going to buy a set of QSB pistons. The head is going out to be machined and O-Ringed. Once the rest of the hard parts show up Brett is going to bring the block down for machining. I am working with Don M (F1 diesel) right now on a cam. He is putting together a new injector setup for me right now. He is also going to send me a new set of F1 springs. These injectors are going to fuel real hard...

I am going to go to a full manual VB in my tranny for this season... just working out the details on that right now.

A few other things going to happen this summer... one of them is a major weight loss,, truck is hopefully going to be real close to 5000 #s...

I am going to start another thread detailing the build for everyone to keep up

Tate

You're not concerned about Chris' results where he actually GAINED power when he pulled out the F1 cam and installed the stock one?

morkable

No,, there were other mitigating factors on that. He also told me that he found that his spool up declined when he changed the turbo... F1, just like hamilton etc have many different cams, and many different applications. If you use a cam that is designed for 1 purpose, it isnt going to fare to well in another application

StealthDiesel

Red flag at Daytona... Montoya ran into a jet drier truck full of fuel. He is fine but everything is on fire!!
Danica looks great as usual but still driving like a girl...


Back to Kevin's engine...
That sounds like an excellent plan. The R&R forged rods plus QSB pistons will make for a super reliable combo.

Here is a link to your build thread to maintain continuity in this thread:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t300920.html



Got a link with more info on this?

Tate

Not off hand. Look up Joesixpack on Comp D. Fella out of Nipawin, Sask. Nira stand alone, twins and a dyno in a barn.

Mike Holmen

I saw what Joe posted, not sure I agree with his data. My truck picked up power running a cam over the stocker. Must have a dozen CR engine, they seem to respond well to the aftermarket cam. Of course I have only run the colt stage 3 so far, try to get a state. Hard to agrue with real life data, I did way to many changes to put a power number onto what I had for gains.

Good choice on the R&R's, they have the 625 rod bolts and a low profile cap. They work the best in 6.7L builds

Kev, I like your build so far, real KISS (keep it simple) and proven. I would run a S400 single (of what ever configuration) and spray for the track. The diverter valve might be something to consider. A S476/83LI T-4, 0.90 my choice for a good single. Priced decently.

morkable

Well. I hear ya mike, but I already have the twins and they are all powder coated pretty like and the piping is all done and the big waste gates are there etc.

Mike Holmen

Without getting into your exact fueling set-up, you might have lots of boost (like +100 psi). Last year we chased and chased issues on an improper twins configuration. If you plan to run twins, limit your primary turbo to around 35-40psi max. Run 20-30 psi on the top turbo. A large primary would elimate the need for a bottom gate. The typical super street primary these days start at 105+mm inducer, thanks to us.

Plan on taking a welder and lots of spare parts Typical street driving, I had tons of issues leaks just running 70-80psi of boost. 100+psi is a totally different game. If you run twins, go with a larger primary, save the exhaust for making more power The vibrant quick connects seem to be the fix for mega boost club.

Just food for thought, a GT4202R or S476LI or S366, you should be solidly into 1200+rwhp, on spray. At 5500#, you'll be probably out last everyone and have a good chance at winning. Previously, you ran a 10.78 at 7000+lbs. I prefer to drink beer and watch other guys work on broken trucks, at the track.

dodgediesel

Mike, my stock headgasket and ARP2000's have seen 70psi many times now, I'm sure you will be good for 100psi.......

Mike Holmen

for sure Jamie, the head gasket will be ok, just the rest of the air tubing/hose clamps, hoses, and so on will have issues. Seen hose tears even when you double up the hoses, might have find the highest pressure rate stuff going. Plan on running tube braces and run hose reforcement braces to remove some of the strain off the hose.

100+psi of boost is lots of pressure and will cause issues not seen on a sub 100 psi truck. Last year we probably ran over 140+psi on a few passes and those were big turbos

morkable

I have no hoses at all. No intercooler either. As for fueling I will be running more than pretty much 95% of the guys I will be racing against. I plan on using very little spray. Mostly just a little on the line to reduce spool up time (and heat inside the tranny) I will reserve the right to add more nitrous if I happen to be in the finals against a faster truck (lol)