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New problem
I went for a little drive today to the weigh scales. 3100 Kg with me and a half tank of fuel,, getting there.
But that isnt my problem,,, what is happening is that I cant seem to get it to seal between the turbo and the manifold/ adaptor plate... I am trying to tighten them as best as I can,, I will try again once it cools down,, anyone have any ideas?
But that isnt my problem,,, what is happening is that I cant seem to get it to seal between the turbo and the manifold/ adaptor plate... I am trying to tighten them as best as I can,, I will try again once it cools down,, anyone have any ideas?
pull it out and make sure it is flat ... if not a easy way to see if you a real flat surface, good piece of steel, desk , table , and put a piece of sand paper face up and run it back and forth on it see if it has high or low spot on it , 180 grit works good to find the bad spot , thats what i would do ,
my two cents
how didn't it spool ?
my two cents
how didn't it spool ?
is there a gasket in there? like rob said. that adapter has to be flat flat. draw file it. both sides. manifold if you can and turbo flange should be good. already. I used black RTV a few times to turbo seal when I didn't use a seal at all. has worked good for me.
Heavy grease. Put it on anywhere you would normally use a gasket, as it heats up and starts to "burn off" it will leave a nice carbon seal behind.
Sounds ridiculous but has sealed up many a leaky flange.
Sounds ridiculous but has sealed up many a leaky flange.
old school trick , i have done it in the field for guys 
QUOTE=dvst8r;2548983]Heavy grease. Put it on anywhere you would normally use a gasket, as it heats up and starts to "burn off" it will leave a nice carbon seal behind.
Sounds ridiculous but has sealed up many a leaky flange.[/QUOTE]

QUOTE=dvst8r;2548983]Heavy grease. Put it on anywhere you would normally use a gasket, as it heats up and starts to "burn off" it will leave a nice carbon seal behind.
Sounds ridiculous but has sealed up many a leaky flange.[/QUOTE]
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Kev, you using the gaskets that I gave Tate or no gaskets? If your using gaskets, take them off and go for a blast. If there is no gaskets between the manifold/flange/turbo try to get some gasket in there and see. The plate should be flat as it was machined on both sides and should be flat. If I remember correctly, there was decent coverage on my exhaust manifold, so it should seal-up. Worst case, is you could get some flat high temp gaskets made up. I've used high temp RTV (copper), but that will burn out in short order but you'll get to race. Grease will work, but not for long. Remember there is 1500 deg's of heat, and grease will burn. Being your in Fort Mac, someone up there should have gasket material for steam flanges or high temp applications. You could also file your exhaust manifold with a flat file, as thats where I guess it could leak. You'll have to pull out the studs to do that.
Where is the soot collecting at? Between the exhaust manifold/flange and flange to turbo? Instant 20psi, with a exhaust leak, that turbo should work good for you buddy.
Where is the soot collecting at? Between the exhaust manifold/flange and flange to turbo? Instant 20psi, with a exhaust leak, that turbo should work good for you buddy.
I think I know the answer as to why its leaking. The gaskets are your typical metal turbo flange gaskets. The problem with that adapter is that the counterbored holes to mount the adapter to the manifold is in line with the sealing face on the gasket. I would try the grease trick, and keep the temps low till it burns in. Or if you can get your hands on some high temp gasket material, make a full face gasket for it. One more idea, find yourself some triple boiled linseed oil, smear it on the flanges (doesn't need to be on heavy) instead. We use that to seal the half joints on the gas and steam turbines. They see more heat and pressure than that flange ever will.
Go to a hardware store. You should atleast be able to find double boiled stuff. Its a little runnier, but should still help seal it up. Try that before the grease. Easier to clean if it doesn't work. We just put it on with a 2" paint scraper, don't need much. Just make sure it pushes out when you torque the bolts.
As I understand it that is exactly what you want to happen is the grease to burn off leaving the carbon behind as a seal. I could be wrong but that is how it was explained to me.
Just thought of something, are the cap socket bolts flush with the flange? You might have to run a file over it to get everything flush. Those bolts might be too long. Did you guys use washers or just the bolts?
The grease is worth a try, at this point you have nothing to loose. At 60 to 80psi, there is alot of force pushing outwards, and it always will find the weak spot. Not to say that it wouldn't work, as its a good idea.
Is the leak is coming from under the flange to the manifold or between the turbo to the flange? I've went thru lots of turbo manifold gaskets running twins. Both mating surfaces have to be flush, smooth and tight. You could put a slightly rougher cut onto flange with a rough flat file, just so you can bite into the gasket more. Sorry Kev, I if I had only know, I could had a better gasket made up for ya.
The grease is worth a try, at this point you have nothing to loose. At 60 to 80psi, there is alot of force pushing outwards, and it always will find the weak spot. Not to say that it wouldn't work, as its a good idea.
Is the leak is coming from under the flange to the manifold or between the turbo to the flange? I've went thru lots of turbo manifold gaskets running twins. Both mating surfaces have to be flush, smooth and tight. You could put a slightly rougher cut onto flange with a rough flat file, just so you can bite into the gasket more. Sorry Kev, I if I had only know, I could had a better gasket made up for ya.


