And the winner is.....




Inner timing case bolt is the culprit. I had "nosparkplugs" come out and give me a hand and I'm leaning hard on his experience and wisdom. Thanks again to Luke for his time and giving me a hand!!!

I'm going to peal off the front of my engine to get at this and I'm thinking I'm going to try giving the gear a slight crank to the left and see if I can get it to line back up.

Current strategy is I'm going to leave the truck outside for the night and let it and the crankshaft freeze. While that is happening I'm going to make a plate with the same bolt pattern as the harmonic balancer. To that I'll weld a 4 or 5 foot bar to serve as a handle and leverage. I'll bring the truck back into the shop. Bind the gears in as many places as I can, attach the plate and then heat the gear and once it's hot try and use the handle to tease it back into place.

If that fails I will end up having to remove the crankshaft and get it pressed off.

If anyone else has an idea please feel free to sound off and I'll use the best one.

Thanks to all for your replies. I was getting pretty tired of being over my head with this old bugger but now I'm game for getting her back up.

Cheers,

Pete

 

those gears are areal pain to get off last one i had to cut off .. but there is a t-bar puller that can be used for doing it , i will see if i can find the part # for you

 

I know most wont like this, but cut the gear. Tape up the front end best you can, start cutting the gear, then hit it with chiesel. It will break, then you can get it off. You will have pull the engine to use a press, crankshaft that size/weight wont be the easy to handle. Guy last month had to replace gears in front of a Cat from overspeed. He cut the gear apart with cut off wheel, it took ahwile. Then used a bearing heater, tapped the gear on. Good luck.

 

Let me know if you need a hand again Pete. I'm off to BC on Thursday but I'll be back on Jan 2nd (turns out the snow conditions are better now). We'll get your truck running the way it should!

 

Cummins manual saz pull it, I have posted the Part number in the past. I have to scrounge for it .... Cummins also Saz remove crank and Use A gear Cutter and shear it off. If you are using a gear puller Cummins Recommends one that has a flat Face on the main threading part (not sure on correct name ) if not it will flair the Crank I have Pictures of some ones crank .... they didn't listen big Drama Now

 

I'd say cut it and get a new gear. I don't see you moving that gear by heating it up and turning it on the crank, especially with gagging it against other gears. Bolts go through them and cams get broken, so I'd advise against that. Pull the cam and the oil pump, then you can get in there and cut it easier.

If you try to pull it, make sure you knock the end of the key off that is still protruding. Otherwise you might take part of the key with you and score up the crank.

Too bad you're in Edmonton, I'd like to come see this.

 

Heads up, your mailbox is full. Time for some deletion. I can't send you any more messages.

 

Try it again.

 

bully, have you guys pull the rad/bumper? You'll have to find some dowels for the tappets, can remember the exact size. The gear is probably toast anyways. Can you find a replacement crank gear?

 

I have the entire front clip resting on the passenger fender. I'm in no panic to start taking this apart yet. Will dig for more info first.

 

I was fortunate to have "Nosparkplugs" answer my call. He is a true dyed in the wool excellant member on this forum!!!!!

I was wondering how I was going to fix this and had some good suggestions and and ideas.

Instead of pulling the crank I ground a groove in the gear and split it off.



I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder and screwed around with a zippy disc until I found the right diameter of the disc to get the job done. 3 1/4" is the perfect size.

I also placed a piece of pipe on the crank in case the grinder jumped and marred the crank while I was grinding.

I moved the crank so the key way was at about the 11 o'clock position and removed the inner timing case bolt that was in the way (the same one that let go and caused all this grief!!!)

I slowly ground in the slot over the key and once I figured it was good enough a couple of taps with a cold chisel popped it.

A bit of wiggling and it came right off.

Then Luke and I heated the new gear in the oven to 350 degrees for a few hours and we set it into the correct timing marks on the crank.

Instead of beating on it we used a two pieces of 2 1/2" inner diameter pipe. 1/8" wall and one measured 1" thick and the other 1/2" thick.

We placed the the 1" piece on the crank behind the harmonic balancer and used the stock bolts with an impact to slowly press the gear on. Once the 1" piece was too short we inserted the 1/2" piece with the 1" piece and it put the gear perfectly into place!!! VERY VERY SLICK!!!!

It maybe took us 20 min start to finish.

Oh yeah..... We had to drill the remainder of the locating pin out of the crank first. I was sweating pretty good thinking it was just not going to work but sheer "your going to work got the job done" I can't even imagine having to get that broken piece of pin out if the drilling didn't work. I was drilling at a horrible angle as well.

Again my thanks to Luke. Stellar fella indeed!!!!

Now off to the head gasket and I wrapped up the fuel pump today.

Should have it back on the road in a week or so and get ready to tackle the next set of problems. (no doubt headed my way)

Hope this can help someone else out and again thanks to all for your help and ideas!!!

P
__________________
YOU WILL WORK...OR YOU WILL PAY!!!!

 

Glad I could help you out Pete! Not to mention the amazing food you can whip up, holy... Thinking of those tostadas and chili already has me drooling Thanks again for your hospitality!

I'm gonna post up a pic of your #1 piston and see what the other guys think of the speckled stuff on the crown.

 

Here it is. I'm thinking it got a little hot? But you'd think #5 and/or #6 would show this before #1? Thoughts?

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Don't do that. I'll just lose more sleep worrying about the inevitable destruction of my engine.......

I have another Mexican feast waiting to lure you out to set up the fuel pump when the parts arrive. (hopefully tom they will get here)

Thanks again for all your hard work.

You are a Dodge god in my eyes!!!!

 

Good job.

The top of the pistons look like something went in there and penetrated into the piston. Usually, melting looks like a flowery pattern (more so on the 24v/CR engines) that start at the lip and work out, typically from advanced timing spraying out of the bowl.