From what I remember, the comp snail was hitting in this area. Within an inch either way, though.

 

THats odd.. I don't know how you would mount the engine any other way. Can the engine mounts swap sides? Move the engine back about 2" by the looks of it and might raise it enough to clear the frame..????

 

I have two suggestions. One redesign the twins to fit in your truck or redesign the motor mounts. You might be able to rig up an adapter plate so you can raise the engine abit. I would take out the motor mount, hang the engine on a engine hoist. You might on need 1/4-1/2 of engine lift. On the 12v and 24v engines, there are 6X12mm bungs threaded into the block, just for motor mounts. You will have other issues to address, like driveline alignment, transmission housing interference, exhaust system, and so on, if you move the engine. Worst case run the S475 as a single.

 

Hopefully I'm not stepping on any toes here, Kev told me last night that this setup was in a Ford before, with different engine mounts. So between the mounts being possibly higher, and the frames possibly wider (obviously needs to be atleast one of those options) is where the interference is coming from. We've discussed adding a spacer between the drain bracket and the CHRA to lift the turbo to the neccesary elevation, which will require hot pipe and cold pipe shortening. Which is a shame, after its all been coated.

 

How deep into the frame would you need to clearance? If you did clearance the frame, would it clear the engine side of the motor mount (the blue part)

EDIT: Depending on the answer to the above questions, clearancing the frame still looks like the way to go to me. From this vantage point anyway.

 

We would need an inch divot. Too much I think as it may extend to the reinforced, double lap part. I don't think the engine side of the mount is an issue but never really looked that hard at it. I think a higher turbo mount is the best option imho.

And as far as frame differences go, I've heard the fords frame rails are straight from front to back and Dodges curve up and down for the engine/body/box so that is maybe why we're tight too.

 

Well I pulled the bracket off today,, i think I am going to get a new mount made,, fix up the issue of being a little bit farther from the block too... the hot pipe will be an easy fix, just cut out the ammount I raise it up, it is a straight up and down peice.. the cold pipe, well untill I get that stuff done I wont be able to see what that will need...

 

For an inch I would cut the frame without thinking twice. When you see that frame compared to the frame we just stuffed a cummins into you will see the overkill. And I have no hesitations about cutting that frame.

It is just thin sheet metal that is bent for strength on the stock mounts, even if you have to cut into the mounts, it won't take much to beef them back up to as strong or stronger then they are stock.

I wish I was closer, looks like about an hours job, with the plasma torch and welder to fix right up.

 

Will an inch give you enough clearance? How much will the engine rock in the mounts when it comes on and off load?

 

An inch should give lots of clearance. I brought the bracket in yesterday to a machine shop to get it rewelded to work.. I think that I will do everything else myself and have my neighbour finish the welds after I tack them

 

Kev any updates, you get the twins installed purfectly

 

hopefully the machine shop gives me a call today to pickup the bracket. Mostly finished wiring up the engine last night, one sensor that I am not even sure what it does let alone what plug goes on it.. figure that out this morning.
Tonight the wife and I are going to tint the back window. If the bracket is done I might get that on too..

 

i've got a few clamps/straps for your radiator lines, hopefully they're the right size...LOL

 

Dan are you going to be available this weekend?

 

I don't think you could possibly mean me, but I'll post just to show that I am paying attention, LOL!