I talked to Mike @ VPMonsterpump and he said he only makes 0.093" and .120" I believe those were the #'s. Also he is the only one that I know of that makes them so unfortunately there probably isn't anyone with stock size tubes. I got 5 CR tubes that were probably gonna end up in the garbage so if my brother lets me I will chop one up and see how it looks. I believe it will be past the filter but its hard to tell how deep it goes. Also the tubes I am running now have no filter. Does that sound right though that the bigger tubes would retard the timing? Thats what Mike was telling me anyway.

Those are the end gaps, and it was a pain. You think you have the right length go to put them in and its two big then next time it ends up being to short then you have to start over. Oh what a headache that was. The first one was by far the worst then it kept getting a little easier. I'll let you know when that stud shows up and I'll try and catch you on a day off, to give it to ya.

 

The bigger volume would retard timing, but to what extent, I don't know. Fluid doesn't compress that much, even at 4500 psi. I'm hoping I'll get a chance to go do my rings here shortly. Might even go puts around in the garage a little later tonight, run out some MIG wire and do some QA on the head, like I meant to do a month and a half ago.

Have you talked to the guys at Left Coast Diesel in the states? I know Brett from there is running a CR head. He's probably running bigger lines, since he's running a monster pump.

 

I bet that your injector tip pressure has also dropped with the larger connector tubes. Your still running a SO VP pump? You truck didn't do the chugging sounds thats common to the larger diameter connector tube.

BigD, is your coolant bypass system from Oppie or home made? I remember the device by the turbo. Was that the pressure regularator valve? Where did the return line go to from there? Might cut off that intake manifold this weekend, I have to get rid of some stress.

 

Darryl, when you measured your rings before installing the wire, how even were they? I did a check with .035" mig wire today, some had only .002" protrusion, others were at .014". And there is still .006" more wire with the real stuff. Or did you just hammer the stainless wire so it flattens out a bit to get the right height?

 

Yeah its an Opies bypass, it dumps coolant from between #5 & #6 cylinder to the top radiator hose when the pressure or heat gets two high.

Wow that is really inconstante. Did they deck the head first? I only got one or two measured and then I got side track and forgot about measuring the rest, before I started putting the stainless wire in. The first one I tried hammering it in and getting the right protrusion but there was no way. I just ended up hammering the rest in lightly and using lots of super glue to hold them in. It would be interesting to see how some of the shops actually do them. If I had a spare block I would of liked to torque it down and take it back off to see how it looks after that.

I got your stud today. When would be a good time to stop by?

 

I almost got the intake side of that head you gave me off. Cast just rebonds itself too easy, drives my crazy. I tried to use a die grind bit that had laying around to see what I could do porting the ports. Wow, you can do miracles in a short order. I did nick a few valve seats, so I lost some ground, but that head is a throw away anyways. There alot of meat in the ports just needing a little TLC.

 

Right on sounds like your having fun.

Not sure if you have seen this yet but here is the link to the ZZ manifolds I was talking about. At the bottom of the page there is a link to porting and machining instruction its kinda interesting.http://www.zzcustomfabrication.com/diesel.htm

 

bigD, your my hero Wow, nice stuff. I just have to find a decent pump to big motovate the motor. That guys does awesome work. I just thought I did a miracal on your head, but wow. I must of cut out 1/8 in around inside the port. Did lots of smoothing of the port, with a big old die grind bit that been in my tool box for ten years, never used. I can't wait to try a decent cutter and be sober enough to do a decent job. Its friday and its snowing again here. A case of beer and die grinder thats all I need

 

Haha, I will have to stop by one of these days and check it out. Hope you didn't get to many filings in your beers.

 

I was kinda thinking about doing a tubular 2in individual runner with a 1/4 npt holes. With a 3in common intake. Its cheap. About $20 to $30 dollars out of napa. Over the counter exhaust stuff. Kinda like this picture.

 

Of course mine wouldn't be stainless, just el-cheapo exhaust tubing.

 

I like it. I have seen a few like that and think it would work pretty good. Would you just build another intercooler pipe to attach it?

 

thats the plan. We will see how things turn (torch) out. I was cutting on that head for about 15 minutes with my torch and the intake still isn't off. The casting kinda re-welds itself back together with my plasma torch. There lots of casting at the front of plenum and the rear of the intake. Its going down soon.

 

Head isn't decked. I measured with a 5' Starrett straight edge, its only out .002" over the whole length. .003" is acceptable over 1', .006" is acceptable over the whole length, so the head is still good and flat.

I like your idea of setting the rings down and torqueing it down. I think full torque would flatten the rings too much, since the gasket is softer, but I could crank it down until I get appropriate amount of gap between the head and block. I now have another project, along with some porting, making rings, and lapping valves.

 

Tate, what kinda of wire you put in? I haven't checked mine yet, maybe I wont after hearing your story. I tried my recip saw on the head and the saw blade broke. Next comes a chop saw or 6in angle grinder. The torch can't get into some of the areas. You should come over and try a port or two. Do some practising. Those seats are easy to nick if your gonna do some home head porting. The trick is to get a long long bit with a decent cutter so you get those hard to reach spots.