Gauges
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From: Stony Plain, Alberta
Gauges
OK... I've found an EGT gauge that will monitor all 6 cylinders. The purpose is avionics rather than automotive, but the price is actually better than the gauges I've seen otherwise... They will sell matching boost and fuel pressure as well. My questions are...
I have several options for range. For EGT, I have 700-1700, 200-1400, and 400-1600. I'm wondering which one? I'm guessing the last one, but... thought I'd ask the experts (which is definitely not me...).
The other questions is what ranges do I need for fuel pressure and boost? They have several ranges, but only quoted me his guess (I hadn't expected all this so I hadn't provided numbers). The company is westach, if anybody is interested...
The info from the company is
2C2-7 400-1600 EGT $58.40
712-2DWK clamp on EGT thermocouple $47.20 we have many sizes and optional thread it styles as well. Will need to know dia of pipe or if you intend on threading it in. Will need one for each pipe.
254-6F 6 position switch $52.92
2C4-11 Boost 0-20 psi $57.90
2C8-8 Fuel pressure 0-15 psi $57.90
387-16V2-C Pressure sender $62.60
Light kits 186 $5.80 each need one for ea. gauge.
I have several options for range. For EGT, I have 700-1700, 200-1400, and 400-1600. I'm wondering which one? I'm guessing the last one, but... thought I'd ask the experts (which is definitely not me...).
The other questions is what ranges do I need for fuel pressure and boost? They have several ranges, but only quoted me his guess (I hadn't expected all this so I hadn't provided numbers). The company is westach, if anybody is interested...
The info from the company is
2C2-7 400-1600 EGT $58.40
712-2DWK clamp on EGT thermocouple $47.20 we have many sizes and optional thread it styles as well. Will need to know dia of pipe or if you intend on threading it in. Will need one for each pipe.
254-6F 6 position switch $52.92
2C4-11 Boost 0-20 psi $57.90
2C8-8 Fuel pressure 0-15 psi $57.90
387-16V2-C Pressure sender $62.60
Light kits 186 $5.80 each need one for ea. gauge.
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From: The Great White North
Im not expert but heres my 2 bits -
Personally I dont like westach gauges - but each to his own.
So the thermocouple is a clamp on type or are you drilling and tapping each runner of the exhaust manifold? That gets a big thumbs down from me. Also, you are using a 6 position switch to monitor all the cylinders? Is that correct? IMO, if you cant see all the cylinder temps at the same time - theres little point.
The EGT guages selection really depends on your mods and where you plan to go with the truck. Id think 400-1600 is where you want to be but you wont be able to see 300F - which is generally accepted as the critical shutdown temperature.
You want a 0-30 psi guage for fuel pressure (be advised I have seen many people report fuel pressure issues with these guage over the years)
As for boost - you may as well get the 0-60 psi guage.
Personally I dont like westach gauges - but each to his own.
So the thermocouple is a clamp on type or are you drilling and tapping each runner of the exhaust manifold? That gets a big thumbs down from me. Also, you are using a 6 position switch to monitor all the cylinders? Is that correct? IMO, if you cant see all the cylinder temps at the same time - theres little point.
The EGT guages selection really depends on your mods and where you plan to go with the truck. Id think 400-1600 is where you want to be but you wont be able to see 300F - which is generally accepted as the critical shutdown temperature.
You want a 0-30 psi guage for fuel pressure (be advised I have seen many people report fuel pressure issues with these guage over the years)
As for boost - you may as well get the 0-60 psi guage.
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From: In Oroville, Ca., same house for past 46 yrs!
since you plan on putting the probe so close to the head, the temps there will be significantly igher than at the turbo inlet for hte exhaust believe it or not. So, if you could get 6 gauges and use 6 probes so you could see all at one time, I'd go for the highest temp with the widest spread. make sense?
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Unless you have a datalogger it is a total waste to try and monitor all 6 cyl's. Just one guage with the probe in the middle of the outlet pre turbo is all you need on a daily driver. Go with a good gauge, not cheapies, very important with pyro's
Fuel pressure, as mentioned earlier 30 psi is perfect for a 3rd gen, you shouldnt ever really see over 18 psi anyways.. and as also mentioned get the 60 psi boost, it sucks to keep replacing your gauge as you do upgrades you never ever thought you would do,,, dont ask me how I know that.
Once all the dust settles on my build I am probably going to part with a few of my gauges as I wont be running them anymore with having a data logger
Fuel pressure, as mentioned earlier 30 psi is perfect for a 3rd gen, you shouldnt ever really see over 18 psi anyways.. and as also mentioned get the 60 psi boost, it sucks to keep replacing your gauge as you do upgrades you never ever thought you would do,,, dont ask me how I know that.
Once all the dust settles on my build I am probably going to part with a few of my gauges as I wont be running them anymore with having a data logger
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IM0 there's no point in having 6 probes close to the cylinders, (we have aluminum pistons right). If aluminum melts at 1250 deg. Were only using a egt guage as a general guide line. With a probe close to the cylinder that's reading a flame your still just guessing maybe even more so.
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From: Airdrie, AB
IM0 there's no point in having 6 probes close to the cylinders, (we have aluminum pistons right). If aluminum melts at 1250 deg. Were only using a egt guage as a general guide line. With a probe close to the cylinder that's reading a flame your still just guessing maybe even more so.
With that being said, on a street truck it is of little concern, but really so is a pyro at all...
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From: Calgary. Alberta
I just had my gauges delivered today.
New Autometer "Factory Match" model supplied by NADP (Craig - 780.456.4498). Same color, font, look as the factory guages.
Fuel Pressure (8560) 0-30 psi
Fuel Rail Pressure (8586) 0-30k psi
Pyro (8544) 0-16k *F
Boost (8505) 0-60 psi
Trans Temp (8557) 100-260 *F
Prices were in the ballpark compared to the Ispro EV2's and the DiPricol Optex's I looked at. Perhaps a bit higher, but worth it for the look IMHO.
Fuel pressure is a mechanical sender that coverts to electric. I think alot of the guys prefer the pure mechanicals but that wasn't an option when I put in the order.
Sounds like I am in the zone range wise. Would love to hear any thoughts on Autometer quality.
To the OP, when I was inquiring around, a consistant message was don't cut corners and think ahead. Less expensive to get something you can grow into. I hope I achieved that.
New Autometer "Factory Match" model supplied by NADP (Craig - 780.456.4498). Same color, font, look as the factory guages.
Fuel Pressure (8560) 0-30 psi
Fuel Rail Pressure (8586) 0-30k psi
Pyro (8544) 0-16k *F
Boost (8505) 0-60 psi
Trans Temp (8557) 100-260 *F
Prices were in the ballpark compared to the Ispro EV2's and the DiPricol Optex's I looked at. Perhaps a bit higher, but worth it for the look IMHO.
Fuel pressure is a mechanical sender that coverts to electric. I think alot of the guys prefer the pure mechanicals but that wasn't an option when I put in the order.
Sounds like I am in the zone range wise. Would love to hear any thoughts on Autometer quality.
To the OP, when I was inquiring around, a consistant message was don't cut corners and think ahead. Less expensive to get something you can grow into. I hope I achieved that.
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta
I have had very good luck with the autometer product. Just a note, your rail pressure gauge will say to 30k,, but your sender will only output to 26.1.
As for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, would you really want to have live fuel going inside your cab? What a mess if there was ever a leak. (also mount your sender away from the cp3 inline. Everyone that I know of that has hooked theirs up close to the cp3 ends up with problems. I have never had issue one with mine mounted this way.
Kenny. For a competition vehicle 6 probes is almost a necesity to properly tune, and diagnose problems,, but you do need to have a datalogger to know for sure... but I dont think I would ever drive a truck without a pyro... to easy to go through the roof, especially while towing
As for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, would you really want to have live fuel going inside your cab? What a mess if there was ever a leak. (also mount your sender away from the cp3 inline. Everyone that I know of that has hooked theirs up close to the cp3 ends up with problems. I have never had issue one with mine mounted this way.
Kenny. For a competition vehicle 6 probes is almost a necesity to properly tune, and diagnose problems,, but you do need to have a datalogger to know for sure... but I dont think I would ever drive a truck without a pyro... to easy to go through the roof, especially while towing
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From: Calgary. Alberta
I have had very good luck with the autometer product. Just a note, your rail pressure gauge will say to 30k,, but your sender will only output to 26.1.
As for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, would you really want to have live fuel going inside your cab? What a mess if there was ever a leak. (also mount your sender away from the cp3 inline. Everyone that I know of that has hooked theirs up close to the cp3 ends up with problems. I have never had issue one with mine mounted this way.
As for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, would you really want to have live fuel going inside your cab? What a mess if there was ever a leak. (also mount your sender away from the cp3 inline. Everyone that I know of that has hooked theirs up close to the cp3 ends up with problems. I have never had issue one with mine mounted this way.
Interesting about the rail output to 26.1. Is that common on all guage makes, perhaps due to factory plug limits? Is there anything that can be done to correct that? I thought injector cracking starts around 27k. I have popped my PRV and am hoping the guage will help me keep tabs on what is happening there.
I was planning on hooking the fuel pressure sender to my Fass. My line goes from the FASS to the CP3 and I understand that the pressure is the same at both ends. Even if not, the rail is what I am really interested in. I agree with the fuel in cab issue with the mechanicals. An isolater addresses that, but given I am really interested in the rail pressure, the line accuracy was not as important.
Appreciate your comments.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta
It is all to do with the factory sender. I am looking into senders that will go higher, but everything that I am finding so far is 800 to 1000 USD. As for your releif valve, Terry from TC Diesel has a really cool new PRV that can be setup for different values.
As for 27k cracking injectors, that is an old wives tail,, if you have clean fuel you wont crack an injector.. cracking happens when you have small particles of stuff pushed through at high pressure (which could be 15k just for arguments sake) I have been running a pressure box set on kill for over 4 years on my truck with everything from stock to wild injectors, no problem,, but I am extremely fussy with my fuel too,, and run very good fuel filters (2 micron)
as for the fuel pressure,, do a inline T for the sender, too close to either the CP3 or the Fass is bad for the unit.. there are pulses that happen at either end, then you have to have a snubber. if you put it about 2 feet away from either end, good to go, ran mine for 4 years, never a problem, rock solid, never a failure
As for 27k cracking injectors, that is an old wives tail,, if you have clean fuel you wont crack an injector.. cracking happens when you have small particles of stuff pushed through at high pressure (which could be 15k just for arguments sake) I have been running a pressure box set on kill for over 4 years on my truck with everything from stock to wild injectors, no problem,, but I am extremely fussy with my fuel too,, and run very good fuel filters (2 micron)
as for the fuel pressure,, do a inline T for the sender, too close to either the CP3 or the Fass is bad for the unit.. there are pulses that happen at either end, then you have to have a snubber. if you put it about 2 feet away from either end, good to go, ran mine for 4 years, never a problem, rock solid, never a failure
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From: Calgary. Alberta
Fabulous. Thanks for the tip. And sorry to hijack the thread guys.
I have talked to Todd at T&C. Big big back log right now. He needs the core to fill the order.
Also arrived in the mail today (Christmas at Easter
) is a rail cap from Wally at FTE. Plan is to put that on, hope the truck starts when I want it to rather than when it feels like it, send the core to Todd for a 26-27 constant pressure valve, and monitor the cap with the guage. Hopefully have some reliability back in time for trailer season.
Is there anyone in Cowtown that sells a 2 micron filter for the FASS 150? I have the OEM from Fass on it now, probably a reasonable investment when the cap goes on.
Again, sorry to hijack and thanks so much for the info.
I have talked to Todd at T&C. Big big back log right now. He needs the core to fill the order.
Also arrived in the mail today (Christmas at Easter
) is a rail cap from Wally at FTE. Plan is to put that on, hope the truck starts when I want it to rather than when it feels like it, send the core to Todd for a 26-27 constant pressure valve, and monitor the cap with the guage. Hopefully have some reliability back in time for trailer season.Is there anyone in Cowtown that sells a 2 micron filter for the FASS 150? I have the OEM from Fass on it now, probably a reasonable investment when the cap goes on.
Again, sorry to hijack and thanks so much for the info.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Okotoks, AB
i run fuel straight to my FP gauge in cab. i have a needle valve under the hood though which can easily/quickly be turned in to stop flow. it also acts as a snubber. very simple install and cheap from gregg distributors. my isolator is still on the shelf . . .
a CAT 2 micron filter might work on the FASS if the thread pich is the same. i believe it is . . .
CAT # IR-0749 (BIG filter) or IR-0750 (reg sized filter)
i bought my 0749 from kenworth calgary (across from blackfoot inn). i think it was around the $20 mark - give or take a couple bucks. all i remember is when i was calling around they were the cheapest on that part number.
a CAT 2 micron filter might work on the FASS if the thread pich is the same. i believe it is . . .
CAT # IR-0749 (BIG filter) or IR-0750 (reg sized filter)
i bought my 0749 from kenworth calgary (across from blackfoot inn). i think it was around the $20 mark - give or take a couple bucks. all i remember is when i was calling around they were the cheapest on that part number.