I was sitting at the Computer working last night and realized I hadn't checked to see if the Block was a 53 ...... Well winner winner I have a 53 Block
I can't really see if it is cracked ,I have to wait till it is out of the truck to play
I think the Cylinder damage is minor but now this Kinda put a kink in my plans.

The plan was Oversize pistons stock compression ARP Head studs and of course the P-pump you get the idea ....

So Any one know were I might be Able to get the Block magnafluxed ?

 

any local reputable engine building shop should be able to mag the motor, crank, rods etc.

 

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the 53 block. Especially if it isn't a daily driver.

 

Not only that, pretty much by now if it was going to be a problem it would have been a problem. Not all 53 blocks gave problems. They usually did in the first 100k

 

I will be able to get a closer look tomorrow I hope lol .
Still some problems with the donor motor, Can't get the Crank Gear off of it . It has Turned and sheared the Key way, More Drama there . Thankfully I am not involved in that part of it .
I guess when I get the motor honed or over bored I will get it Checked first anyways

 

I've got a good three jaw puller that will pull that off. If the key is sheared and the gear spun, it may have galled up the shaft and made a nasty mess. Interference fits and rotation therein are a bad combo.

 

Thank you Tate
I Will See what they say tomorrow . The guy Who is selling the Donor motor Is going to pull it . I personally would rebuild the motor that's in the Truck . Which is what i am angling to do. I tried to talk them into doing that but no one wanted to listen to me.
lol lol guess I cant complain I hopefully will get a Motor that's in not to bad of shape for next to nothing other than it being a 53 Block


I talked to Cummins And they said to get A gear Splitter and cut it off if the puller doesn't work , Which means ya gotta pull the crank . I wasn't there but apparently Dodge Tech said just heat up the Gear and Cold chisel it off . Like I said I am stayin out the Drama

 

You could leave the crank in the block, just remove the first main and you have full access to it. I would be worried about getting dust and particles from the disc/gear in the the rest of the engine, so removing it might not be a bad idea. Cutting it would be a lot less risky to the crank itself, unless you go to deep.

 

I'm trying to remember where but I saw a 2nd gen complete engine the other day for around $1500. It may have had a tranny as well. I just can't remember where, maybe CL.

 

Wooo that would be sweet only problem Is location

 

You want a good crankshaft? I just so happen to have an extra one. I have one engine that I'm using as a mock-up engine. I was just going to throw it onto the shelf. I think looking at the pictures, you have a few bad cylinders. What year is the engine? The tappet cover is the old style and there is no ecm? I'm guessing that its a 98 for the 24v

My two cents, its just cheaper finding/building a 12v. The injectors lines and those other parts add up. 24v parts are more expensive than 12v.

What does the head look like?

 

Just curious I noticed you pulled cam gear. What puller did you use? Have you been able to get gear back on without heating gear? I have always pulled camshaft when removing or replacing cam gears. I had gear crack once, wasn't heated enough before pressing back on.

 

The truck Is a 1998 1/2 Good Eye Mike.
I Am not sure What they are Going to Do about the Donor Motor Crank Gear, Still a bit of Finger Pointing going on there now too lolol. The donor motor was in a Head on.
The original motor Cylinders are Scored But not sure How bad. I just have to be Patient and see what happens For all I know the Donor motor May be Pooched too Like I said I am stayin out that

The head Is more than likely Scrap on the Original motor. As far as making a 24V p-pump. yes I know pricey And A bit of a waste in a 1 st Gen But man It would be Fun
I am taking A couple of Lines to a instrumentation Guy to see what he thinks about building them for me
If not I will see
I will still need the time gear parts and the throttle mounting and the P-pump

 

Toaster oven at 400F for 30-45 min worked well for me. 300-350F wasn't enough when I was doing the cam swap.

 

I've used a press to push off the cam gear and the oven method to put the gear back on. Like Tate said, if you get the gear to the right temperature, it will just drop on.