hey guys,

i think i have a problem with my power door lock/window switch, it doesn't operate properly - but it still operates (to make a long story short).
does anyone have one laying around, or would anyone be willing to let me try theirs in my truck to make a diagnosis?

thanx,
jason

 

I've got one you can try. Its not in my truck yet, and I haven't confirmed if its good, but I'm hoping it is. If you want to swap it in for a test, let me know.

 

tate,

that would be great. when are you available?

 

I should be around for the rest of the week. Haven't gotten a call yet to go back to work, yet.

 

i should be available during that time also. what times are good for you?

jason

 

I have a set also...

 

thanx diesel dave,

i just need to diagnose the problem, and i just need to try the switch(es) in my truck. im not looking to buy, rather just to run a test - it's a long story to get into (surprisingly enough involving a dealership).

if you are willing to just let me try them in my truck, that would be great. sounds like tate might be able to help me out also. it doesn't matter to me which one of you helps out. . . . i'll just wait to hear back from you guys.

thanx again,
jason

 

Don't matter...Who ever is closer to your neck of the woods.I'm located in Canyon Meadows.I have both sides if you need them for your test...

 

i think i'll give tate a try. i live in the NE so i think he will be closer. unless you are available today (friday) thru the day. . .

 

Anybody have the part number for this switch?

 

You have a volt meter? Put the volt meter in the circuit and see when you push the button, you get voltage. If you do, you need new stuff a.k.a new soleniod. If you don't, keep looking for the problems, it could be the switch or wiring issue. Does the door unlock with the remote? I have a bad switch on my driver's door, and I'm too lazy to fix it.

 

thanks mike,

i had the truck in at varsity to do some body work which required removing/reinstalling the door panels. when i got it back it was malfunctioning. the lock switches work, but the window switch (up or down) will activate the lock (not unlock) mechanism. the body shop manager said it could be because i installed an aftermarket headlight harness w/relay - bs. he said he could have his electrical guy look at it, but if it wasn't their fault, i would have to pay the labour - no thanks. so, it had to go back in to fix some of the other work they screwed up on/missed - he said they would try a brand new switch while it was in and see if that works - it didn't resolve anything. i then took it to quinn security to have them check it out - they found that varsity did nothing wrong (although the switch now had a loose rattle inside), and did some other diagnostics and suggested i try another switch. that's where i'm at.

i think the body shop manager lied to me in saying they did try a new switch when it went back. in order to truly find this out, i need to try a different switch than my own. i will gladly eat my words if indeed he did try a new switch, but it was never on any work orders.

if they are willing to p**s a customer off over a $100 part, so be it. i'll do my business elswhere.

well, that turned into a rant - didn't it?!!

to answer mike's questions: i don't have a voltmeter, and the remote function is normal. i would assume quinn had gone through the steps outlined by mike.

 

I would put an ohm meter onto the switch and see if the switch is still working. If that checks out, I would still put a volt meter on the locking solenoid. You can get a volt meter/ohm meter at just about any home hardware store or auto parts. It comes in handy, you don't need anything to fancy like a fluke or than sort.

 

Give me a shout tomorrow, I'll be working on my truck, so I'll be home most of the day. I'm hoping I'll be up by around 10, but no promises. I've also got door harnesses and window motors laying around we can test, as long as it all connects up. Not sure if I mentioned it, but this stuff is out of a 01. Might be the same as the 00, but its not the same as the 98 I've found. Atleast not the work truck trim 98's.

 

It could be the other side causing the problem as well as they act like 3way electrical switch. My drivers side wouldn't acivate the locks but it was the passenger side that was the problem.