ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

Diffs and T-case, what fluid?

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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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19Fury69's Avatar
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From: High River, Alberta
Diffs and T-case, what fluid?

Hey I need to change the fluid in my diffs and in the T-case, what would you recomend filling them with, I've never changed fluid in a T-case before lol could be chicken noodle soup in there for all I know.

Thanks in advance
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 01:56 PM
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T-Case takes ATF!
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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I've used ATF+4 stuff.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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I think it is 75w90 in the diffs, although I think they reccomend 75w140 if towing a lot.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Thats what I used...ATF in T-case and 75-90 in the diffs...Don't over fill your front diff or you will run into the same problem I did...Oil seepage through the seals...
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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Fury, did you get that garrett on you're truck yet? You gonna pop off the diff covers or use a pump to scavenge out the oil. The front is a bugger, the ring is in the way, so you have to use a smaller hose. Should stop by I have a full case of 75w90 full syth oil. I'm too lazy to do my own these days..
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:08 PM
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How much oil does it take to change the front rear and transfer?

Fred P..............
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:16 PM
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Two to three litres for both axles. It don't take much. I usually spill enough. A suction pump is the right tool to do the oil install. Still a messy job, the oil stinks and it will stick everywhere. You guys use the mopar anti-slip oil additive? The oil I have already has the additive in the oil but...
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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I run Amsoil in the t-case and diffs. ATF in the T-case, 75-90 front 75-140 rear.

Wait until you decide to install a Mag-HyTec diff cover front and rear, then you need to buy oil by the case. If I remember right, the front took 5 litres and the rear took 9. I thought it was running out the end when I kept dumping fluid into the rear diff, it just kept going and going.

Jeff
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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for my little 3rd gen...I use 75-90 front and rear in the winter and 75-140 from spring til fall non synthetic. ATF+4 for the trans and transfer case.
Rad is next and may flush the brakes when I get the rotors swapped with the new pads.

Scotty
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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Thanks guys, I have completely neglected to change these fluids sice I got the truck, they were done right before I got it so I figured they should be good then just kept putting it off.
Mike I got it in friday night but just got the downpipe on like 20 minutes ago, my buddy lent me his welder and I went to town haha, had to weld on a patch over a hole and fill up some spots that got cut up taking it apart before. I asked the guys at the shop to just put a tack on each join when I got my delete pipe and they understood that as weld 3 inches on each join, was a pain to cut them off. I have a major boost leak somewhere, only pulling 25 now WOT and like 4 on the highway, but **** this thing spools like a supercharger!!!
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 07:28 AM
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Agree with Scotty for your part of the world. If not towing heavy I would be tempted to use the lighter weight yr round.

I run 80-140 synthetic all yr (no towing but lots of heavy hauling).... but that's down here where we have 6 months of 90* + weather
...and cold for us is 30* in the winter.

RJ
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 08:04 AM
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i used to have a gmc 6.5 last summer and i didn't know till that last oil change i did that it was supposed to get the limited slip juice. Do dodges require the same syrup?!
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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Most synthic gear oil has the anti-slip oil modifer. You will hear the rear make a clicking/clunking noise on corners if you need modifer. These trucks are so noisy, its hard to hear the clicking.

Fred, we should do a air leak test again to see where all your boost is going. On the weekend I toasted a BMW 535 on the deerfoot going thru town, coming out I beat on a 01 dodge cummins lifted ride. We must have did four to five good pulls. It was good to open her up again and burn off the carbon. We clouded out the hiway good. I have a few new air leaks as well. Nothing that a few beers wouldn't fix up.

My ring/pinion look good after 6 to 7 years of using 75/90 oil. I just use a full sythic oil, its still fluid in the cold not slurpy gew. ATF +4 is a mixed blend, partial sythic oil and ATF. T case are easy to change the oil, there is a plug you can pull out to drain the oil. I change mine every other engine oil change.

Fred you like Mopac, just go buy a case of ATF+4 royal purple oil. I'll give you a hand and change oil the tranny/T-case oil. Pick-up a tranny filter, it has to be the old style as the newer ones are more restrictive. Its about good as oil as you can buy. Amsoil is pretty good stuff as well but I'm too cheap for that stuff. I just buy el cheapo canadian tire ATF and add some redguard additive. I change oil often, so why spend extra on oil, the tranny filter will clog-up fast in you put your foot into it causing the line pressure to drop off.

Homestead, the magntech cover, does it interfere with the front steering linkage? My steering bar is very close to my stock cover and at times will rub the cover. A drop pitman arm will hopefully help that issue.
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