Ok I decided to repost this in AB chapter since I know a lot of you guys and you guys are pretty knowledgeable and helpful.

So first off my truck isn't stock. It has a 6" superlift system on it and I'm running 37" BFG all terrains. This weekend I replaced my control arm bushings and shocks. All of which were in dire need of replacement. Cool, now my truck rides and steers a lot better (tighter feel). That is until I got some nasty death wobble. Last night I went WOT from 40mph to 60mph and let out and all of a sudden my truck starts shaking badly. Seems like I hit a bump in the road the wrong way and the truck has major DW. Also after replacing all these parts I also noticed more road noise. Its like my tires started to howl more on the highway?

I'm thinking my steering stabilizers are both toast. I have the superlift dual stabilizer setup as well. But aside from that what else could cause it do have DW? I've read on here that guys got it from running 35" BFG ATs, maybe 37s have the same characteristics? Everything else in the front end is fairly tight but I'm going to put it on stands and double check.

Thoughts? What else could I be missing?

 

Maybe when you replaced the radius arm bushings you changed the caster? Some guys like the caster maxed out and some like less. Mine is maxed due to having bad death wobble (made it better but didnt fix it). Found a bad dampner, dealership replaced it and no more DW. I wouldnt believe it if I hadnt seen it myself because I have always taken the dampners off due to it being a target off roading. Check your dampners and also the caster!!!

 

the death wobble, is it more of a front wheel "hopping" or more of a shake side to side?

I found if the drv side wheel hits a hole/manhole cover/railway track at speeds over 60kph, I'd get a violent wheel hop (at least 6inches up and down) found out it was caused by wrong spring rates, I suspect it was due to lower control arm angles (just my theory)

 

The death wobble I have is a side to side motion. About the alignment, when I did the bushings I noticed that the bottom bolt on the mount was an alignment/adjusting type with camplate on it. Before removing the bolts I noticed that the left was in a different postion that the right side. So I adjusted them to both the same (originally where the right side was). Is that what you're talking about, adjusting the caster? I'm kinda new to working on steering system so forgive my ignorance.

 

that is why you now have the DW, they are susposed to be in the same posn BUT, most alignment shops cheat and crank one side forward or rearward to achieve the proper caster value, you will likely have to put it back to its orginal settings

read thru this, it explains it better than I can

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...8f247de789d0ef

and here is a link to book mark for any other steering issues

http://dodgeram.org/tech/troubleshoot/steering.htm

 

My old lady drives a 06 dodge 3500 with 6 inch lift and 37 BFGs. WE have never had death woble even at 180kph. I think we don't have death wobble becuase the lift is a BDS system with long arms that replace the lower trailing arms. BFGS are supposted to be the worst tire for cuaseing death wobble, from what i have read. I have delt with death wobble on a few trucks, tryed everything, till finally a dual sterring stabalizer kit fixed one, and lowering one fixed it. I have been thinking alot about this issuse. My therey on what cuases the issue is the trailing arm bushings. the wobble is caused by the bushings bounceing. When you put better steering shocks on it helps dampen forces on the bushings and keeps them from jyrating. sometimes you can change the angle on the radius arms(like lowering the truck) and changes the forsces acting on the bushings so they don't start jyrating. Your cams being turned opposite of each other was probably loading the bushings wich may have been enough to stop the jyrating. Try cranking it back how it was. Now stock bushings are probably rubber and yours are probably a poly bushing. There are many grades of poly bushings, depends on what the lift company gets. I would like to see someone try energy suspention bushings as i think they are a high grade of poly. Anyhow thats my thery

 

Have you checked the upper ball joints? I just replaced one in my truck. Man did it make a difference. Mine was so bad I could wiggle it with my hand with no tire on the hub. I would also take a good look at the track bar? I imagine you have an adjustable track bar. Sometimes the ends get worn. Is everything tight? My truck has a habit of working the bolts loose, even if I use red locktite and crank the heck out of the bolts. Its just habit for me to retighten everything up at oil service time.

Have you removed the steering stablizer off the truck? If they are good they have some damping or resistance. Do they push out to full lenght? you might have to much pressure in the damper. On my truck I have an adjustable steering damper, you can add nitrogen to the shock if need to. Its suppose to be neutral, and provide damping.

 

Caster. After having built 8+ 4 link setups, and having gone from crazy throw you off the hiway death wobble, to none, caster is the main culprit.

3rd gen Dodges, seem to suffer from death wobble if track bar alignment is out (I am assuming it is an adjustable track bar at this point).

 

Hmm I think you're right. Anybody know of any reputable alignment shops in Edmonton that deal with lifted trucks on a regular basis?

 

CASTOR CASTOR CASTOR Just go to any alignment shop,,, tell them that they need to advance the castor to max available... tell them not to do anything but that.. problem will be fixed,

 

Ideal alignment has always done me well.

 

morkable, you don't happen to have a link or a pic that shows where this adjustment is found on the trucks ? is it the eccentric on the bottom of the lower control arm ? and is it something we can do ourselves ? thanks man.

 

Does the lift kit have a drop bracket for the track bar or is it an adjustable bar? There is a difference between the two. Any alignment shop can do an alignment for ya, you just have to tell them what to do. I've tried castor at -3, -3.5 and -4.5 deg's. Whats you're toe in at? You could run a slight toe-in on both tires. A neutral toein or toe-out, will cause some wobble. Is this a new issue or old one that you just learned to live with.

 

I dont sorry... I have a buddy in GP that does all my wheel alignments... I had gotten a wheel alignment on my truck by another guy (only because my buddy was on holidays) and it did the dw... once my buddy got back, he took it on his rack, and fixed it up in about 10 minutes

 

From what I can see its the adjustable bar. I read up on that http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...8f247de789d0ef site and I'm going to see if I can get them to align it as per that guy's spec. He seemed to really have the right idea on how they should be set.