Congrats buddy on the monster build-up. I just grind off the stud some, for clearance on my 02.

My new 10 is an CC,SB auto truck, I'm building it just to pull my RV. Nothing wild just get rid of that emission junk. I'm down sizing my fleet some with the new truck

 

pgdsm, I have both 150 injectors and 625 studs available, both brand spanky new

 

Ya I know you have some injectors, but Ive started a group buy on injectors over on ab diesel. Getting 150's for $395 plus $ 100 core (us$)

625 are the heavy duty ones right? Hmm wasn't planning on them how much you want for them?

 

Is there something different with the 625 studs compared to the 2000's? There is only 1 stud that hits the lower valve cover base, right @ the rear. I have done two 5.9 in the last year. Both in the same place.

 

The ARP 625 studs are exactly the same length as the regular ARP studs.
The ARP 625 nuts & washers look identical, black oxide coated also. Only difference is that the regular ARP 2000 studs are black oxide & the ARP 625 studs look stainless.

You're right Scott, the stud in the middle at the very back of the head is the one that makes most of the contact with the rocker box, but we clearanced another 1/2 dozen or so that were close just to be safe.


The truck is still running fine. I still have my Edge J/A installed but it's set to zero now, Smarty on level 2 (60hp). The truck seems to pull more smoothly without the Edge.
I only have 1 part of the Arson kit installed but rail pressure is just fine with the new 50HP injector tips.
I can sure bury my pyro though & my stock clutch is hurting. That project will have to wait, likely until this fall.

 

2wd clutch job would be sweet compared to the 4wd, but its not that bad either.

 

Thanks to you too, Joe, I learned tons as well. I figure if I can get some more experience helping on Brad's truck in the secure environment of Stephen's shop I'll have the confidence to rip into mine - its like open heart surgery for the Cummins . I love that intake plate, I'm wondering if I should hold off until I can afford one.

 

Daniela, just wait till you do a cam swap, a major overhaul on the engine or a transmission rebuild. Still a real easy engine/truck to work on for the most part and its been designed for the most part for easy servicing. For the most part, you can repair fairly easy at home.

 

Mike you completely overestimate both my abilities and ambitions with regards to engine repair, maintenance, and bombing, but I'm flattered Meanwhile, I will just sit back and admire all you guys who do!!, maybe pass you the wrench or pick up the washer off the floor, grab a cold beer or other such useful tasks as may befit my competencies, lol

 

Lack of ambition, you have one of the most bombed rides at our GTG's Good try, we know better than that.

 

Well I just had stephen order me some studs, got a good line on a he351, and will be ordering 150's here right soon.
Wonder how long my clutch will last. It's supposedly a conofe.

How long should injectors and studs take to instal? I'll be re and re my vp again to swap out the timing key.

 

Well I just had stephen order me some studs, got a good line on a he351, and will be ordering 150's here right soon.
Wonder how long my clutch will last. It's supposedly a conofe.

How long should injectors and studs take to instal? I'll be re and re my vp again to swap out the timing key.

 

You totally underestimate yourself Daniela!!

Plus there are plenty of folks that will be more than willing to help you when you upgrade your truck...




PGDSM, where are you located? If you are in the Calgary area, I would be happy to come by and help you out.

The studs took me forever but are not that hard to do. You will need a 14mm, 12 point, 1/2" drive, deep socket when torquing the ARP nuts down.


..Joe

 

Helping teaches everyone and a good chance to have a few brews too...

 

Yup, we don't have nearly enough wrenching get togethers. Although it usually turns into one guy working and 10 or so watching. Maybe there is reason we don't have them.