ARP 625 Custom Age Headstuds #247-4204
12-07-2009, 11:37 PM
#33
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that does look weird.
Marking the damper 33deg was bang on for me. for TDC on all. no biggy. i did though make sure I felt positive valve to piston contact before I started really ccranking on it. but no need for exact science there. as long as the piston is high enough to allow the keepers to release. you're gold.
Marking the damper 33deg was bang on for me. for TDC on all. no biggy. i did though make sure I felt positive valve to piston contact before I started really ccranking on it. but no need for exact science there. as long as the piston is high enough to allow the keepers to release. you're gold.
12-08-2009, 12:13 AM
#34
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that does look weird.
Marking the damper 33deg was bang on for me. for TDC on all. no biggy. i did though make sure I felt positive valve to piston contact before I started really ccranking on it. but no need for exact science there. as long as the piston is high enough to allow the keepers to release. you're gold.
Marking the damper 33deg was bang on for me. for TDC on all. no biggy. i did though make sure I felt positive valve to piston contact before I started really ccranking on it. but no need for exact science there. as long as the piston is high enough to allow the keepers to release. you're gold.
12-09-2009, 10:16 PM
#36
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Dont need any payment Joe, was going to offer you my Source valve spring tool, but I read that you already got 1. Its a very nice piece, works great. Just put down lots of rags incase you drop a keeper & it goes into the engine. Have a cummins injector brush that you can use to do the injectors. Need a inch lb torque for the injectors. Danny you can use that tap also, I dont think I will ever use the tap again. Also Joe you should get a 24mm 3/8 shallow socket from Snap-on as need to torque the jam nuts for the transfer tubes that thread into the head. The Cummins instrutor was over annal about this. I took the ISB/C/M coarse, but we have sold less than 3 Cummins engines in a year. Mostly is green or silver engines.
12-10-2009, 12:32 AM
#38
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Dont need any payment Joe, was going to offer you my Source valve spring tool, but I read that you already got 1. Its a very nice piece, works great. Just put down lots of rags incase you drop a keeper & it goes into the engine. Have a cummins injector brush that you can use to do the injectors. Need a inch lb torque for the injectors. Danny you can use that tap also, I dont think I will ever use the tap again. Also Joe you should get a 24mm 3/8 shallow socket from Snap-on as need to torque the jam nuts for the transfer tubes that thread into the head. The Cummins instrutor was over annal about this. I took the ISB/C/M coarse, but we have sold less than 3 Cummins engines in a year. Mostly is green or silver engines.
Thanks Scott, very generous of you & thanks for the info.
Your head stud tap must be 12" long or more right? You did your studs, 1 at a time, with the head in place right?
With your tap, I think I'm good toolwise.
Lol, Daniela are you referring to us as "Studs"?!! I'm fine with that!
So it's a Studs & studs & suds GTG??!!
Just joking!
It's too bad that we don't all live in the same city. Brad in Edm who bought my standard studs for his Common Rail will be wanting to install them this spring also.
12-10-2009, 03:54 PM
#40
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Its a pretty easy install installing the "studs" (that does sound dirty). The longer one go on the exhaust side. I had to trim abit off the front of valve cover.
Heres my plug of the day. I think I'm in love with my new snow plow on my quad. It sure made for clearing the driveway fun. I did two driveways in 1/2hr. It must have snow 2-3in last night. I got a case of beer for my efforts.
If you need a hand with the studs, let me know. The first time I installed my studs, I didn't even use a tap. They held up and I had no issues. You have to torque them up by stepping up the torque like 60-80-100-125. When you go for a next, you have to release the torque some what, back-off again the retainer. The go for the next higher number. I even do a couple repeats checks at the top torque setting. You need lube for the studs. I just put it on the top threads. Dry on the bottom. If you lube up the bottom, the stud keep moving and you can't get a decent torquing. You can do a line torque. Just start at the front and work your way to the back of the block. Just remove only one bolt at a time and install the stud. Put some miles on the truck and go and do a re-torque. After that hard down that throttle
Heres my plug of the day. I think I'm in love with my new snow plow on my quad. It sure made for clearing the driveway fun. I did two driveways in 1/2hr. It must have snow 2-3in last night.
I got a case of beer for my efforts.If you need a hand with the studs, let me know. The first time I installed my studs, I didn't even use a tap. They held up and I had no issues. You have to torque them up by stepping up the torque like 60-80-100-125. When you go for a next, you have to release the torque some what, back-off again the retainer. The go for the next higher number. I even do a couple repeats checks at the top torque setting. You need lube for the studs. I just put it on the top threads. Dry on the bottom. If you lube up the bottom, the stud keep moving and you can't get a decent torquing. You can do a line torque. Just start at the front and work your way to the back of the block. Just remove only one bolt at a time and install the stud. Put some miles on the truck and go and do a re-torque. After that hard down that throttle
12-10-2009, 04:07 PM
#43
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Yes/no, if I go backwards to fast the quad starts cutting out. I have to do a hard reset. on/off, and I'm good to go. I got the front rebuild yesterday, but shes pretty stripped down and all the fancy covers are long gone. I thought that the city was gonna give it to me for plowing the road for the school buses. Last night I got stuck in a snow bank, had to use my truck to get the quad out.
I all ready broke the plow, nothing that a good old farm boys couldn't fix.a bit of duct tape and its good as new.
I think tomorrow I'm going shopping for hoses and swedge tubing to finish off those darn twins.
I all ready broke the plow, nothing that a good old farm boys couldn't fix.
a bit of duct tape and its good as new.I think tomorrow I'm going shopping for hoses and swedge tubing to finish off those darn twins.
12-10-2009, 06:25 PM
#44
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Its a pretty easy install installing the "studs" (that does sound dirty). The longer one go on the exhaust side. I had to trim abit off the front of valve cover.
Heres my plug of the day. I think I'm in love with my new snow plow on my quad. It sure made for clearing the driveway fun. I did two driveways in 1/2hr. It must have snow 2-3in last night. I got a case of beer for my efforts.
If you need a hand with the studs, let me know. The first time I installed my studs, I didn't even use a tap. They held up and I had no issues. You have to torque them up by stepping up the torque like 60-80-100-125. When you go for a next, you have to release the torque some what, back-off again the retainer. The go for the next higher number. I even do a couple repeats checks at the top torque setting. You need lube for the studs. I just put it on the top threads. Dry on the bottom. If you lube up the bottom, the stud keep moving and you can't get a decent torquing. You can do a line torque. Just start at the front and work your way to the back of the block. Just remove only one bolt at a time and install the stud. Put some miles on the truck and go and do a re-torque. After that hard down that throttle
Heres my plug of the day. I think I'm in love with my new snow plow on my quad. It sure made for clearing the driveway fun. I did two driveways in 1/2hr. It must have snow 2-3in last night.
I got a case of beer for my efforts.If you need a hand with the studs, let me know. The first time I installed my studs, I didn't even use a tap. They held up and I had no issues. You have to torque them up by stepping up the torque like 60-80-100-125. When you go for a next, you have to release the torque some what, back-off again the retainer. The go for the next higher number. I even do a couple repeats checks at the top torque setting. You need lube for the studs. I just put it on the top threads. Dry on the bottom. If you lube up the bottom, the stud keep moving and you can't get a decent torquing. You can do a line torque. Just start at the front and work your way to the back of the block. Just remove only one bolt at a time and install the stud. Put some miles on the truck and go and do a re-torque. After that hard down that throttle
thats how I did the stud in my red truck too. Hg held fine after that.
12-10-2009, 09:47 PM
#45
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The tap is 6" long, its called a pulley tap. Not sure what pulley would have a set screw that big or take that kind of bolt. I use a 1/4 drive 8point socket to turn the tap. Even @ work when doing a head gasket or rebuild the block is tapped to make sure the threads are nice & clean. Nothing worse when pulling 340ftlbs & the head bolts are making bad noises when tighten them. Trade school was all threads tapped to make sure there is no issue later that cant be taken care off before it goes together. I did them 1 @ time with head still installed. I used nut cracker on the threads of the tap, then used shop vac with plastic air line duct taped to suck out the holes. Not really a fan of blowing air down the hole, I cant stop all the crap that comes out of there from going were it wants to. Like into the engine, there always seems to be an open hole for it to fall into to.