anyone got a stock manifold
anyone got a stock manifold
just wondering if anyone has a stock exhaust manifold for 2nd gen 24v. I might see if i can get rid of my garrett and t3 3piece manifold. maybe replace it with a 4094r and bigfoot 3 piece
Tate, you should get try that 4202R turbo you have laying in the garage. You have a fairly tight exhaust housing on it, so it should spool up nicely.
I do have an adapter to use the T03 smaller foot with the larger foot T03
I do have an adapter to use the T03 smaller foot with the larger foot T03
Kenny, just put a S475 under the garrett 3782R turbo, it will give tons of air and you'll still have decent spool-ups. It will fix the I need a bigger turbo feeling
. The S475 are cheap around the $800 mark. You'll have enough air for 800 to 900 rwhp (they are rated at 105 lbs/min)
You want bigger sticks, o-ringed head and 625 ARP's? I might have a few available to test out that clutch of yours.
. The S475 are cheap around the $800 mark. You'll have enough air for 800 to 900 rwhp (they are rated at 105 lbs/min)You want bigger sticks, o-ringed head and 625 ARP's? I might have a few available to test out that clutch of yours.
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Thanks drd i'll keep it mind, Yeah mike that doesn't sound to bad im going to send my head out to get o-ringed in a couple months cause i can't really play with a bigger a single or twins. till the head is clamped down.
say can i die pen my head to check for cracks? or does it have to be done a different way.
say can i die pen my head to check for cracks? or does it have to be done a different way.
VP 24 trucks seems to have issues without orings at higher boosts. I rather pull blown head gasket than pull out a good one, so what no try everything out prior to going the orings route. Try the studs out, you might be able to live without the orings. The general rule for 24vp trucks are 50-60 psi with studs and no orings. 70psi+, you should upgrade to the higher grade ARP's. Above that its fire ringing.
Kenny, you should just pull that engine and put in a worked over 12v engine, with a decent P7100 pump. You'll end up with a better more than the 24v engine and survive better with higher egt's and make more HP. Then go and beat on the those twin pump CR trucks that have to run heavy shots of nos to get a look at your rear bumper.
Kenny, you should just pull that engine and put in a worked over 12v engine, with a decent P7100 pump. You'll end up with a better more than the 24v engine and survive better with higher egt's and make more HP. Then go and beat on the those twin pump CR trucks that have to run heavy shots of nos to get a look at your rear bumper.
don't get me to excited i've gone about 2 months without buying snowmobile or truck mods and cibc wants a few more payments befor i buy more. but just studs and run er sounds good hey tate whats the downpipe hookup on that SB.
i'll toss it out there can you change a front crank seal from the outside of the motor?
i'll toss it out there can you change a front crank seal from the outside of the motor?
I've done the front seal two different ways. The first way was to take of the cover. The second I just left the cover on and installed the seal. It only stopped the oil leak for a short time. If I do the seal again, I plan on de-burring the crank with some emery cloth. The darn re-sleeve has a habit of coming out early and was a pain. I just let the engine leak. I think that the SB uses a 4.21 marmon exhaust flange. Its different and you might have to get an exhaust shop to get a flange for ya.
The SB has the typical HX40 flange, so it should drop right in where your Garrett was.
You can pull the timing cover, pound the old seal out, and pound the new one in and reinstall, take about 2 hours or so. I'd get a new gasket as well, as the old one will likely tear apart on the way out. You can get a speedi-sleeve, it will want you to install on both the crank and the cover at the same time, which is difficult without the special tools, but theres ways around that if neccesary.
You can pull the timing cover, pound the old seal out, and pound the new one in and reinstall, take about 2 hours or so. I'd get a new gasket as well, as the old one will likely tear apart on the way out. You can get a speedi-sleeve, it will want you to install on both the crank and the cover at the same time, which is difficult without the special tools, but theres ways around that if neccesary.
Tate, buddy we have to compare your SB to my S366 that I just scored. Its spins a little easier than your's, I think. The turbine housing looks to be the same size. Mine's has a turbine exhaust of 4.21 flange. What turbine inlet flange do you have? I was gonna use mine in a small towing twin set-up.


