so i can solder the basics and do a decent job with larger items. BUT - i am having trouble with the small switches and keep ruining them!

i have tried a couple different methods but am not good enough to do a 6 terminal switch without ruining at least one of the terminals.

i have been putting off the high idle fooler project for some time now because of this, but need to get it done before it starts getting cold.

anyone in the area good with fine soldering? i have diagrams which are very easy to read, and i understand what needs to go where - i just need someone who can do it quickly before ruining the switches!

anyone out there that can help?

 

Jason, what kind of soldering iron are you using? Sounds like you need a fine tip and perhaps a lower temp tip.

Also, what kind/type of solder are you using?

Is this surface mount stuff or regular switches?

 

i am using a 40w iron with a fine tip. the soldering iron station has a dial that scrolls anywhere from 1 - 5 without clicking into any positions, so i can set it where i want.

i have been trying at 5 - so i would have to leave it on the terminal for a shorter period of time . . . should i set it lower?

as for the solder - it is a 60/40 alloy (tin/lead) with a flux core.

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummin.../high-idle.htm

if you scroll down a bit you will see switches in the pics - these are very similar to what i am using. except mine will end up in a project box . . .

 

What Doc said.. I do fine soldering repairs for my analyser cables and small repairs on circuit boards like my wifes computer screen. Popped a capacitor and was told to throw it out, $0.25 capacitor and its working again.

Surface mount takes a special iron for sure.

 

I would turn down the heat for sure. I never use over 2.5 on mine for any of that stuff. You are getting the terminals too hot and heat soaking the switch.

 

I hate those small switches for automotive use.
They are too small to work with plus I hate soldering in switches in case you ever have to take them apart in the future.
I prefer bigger switches with larger spade connectors.

Like the other's said, turn the iron heat way down, solder one connection at a time allowing plenty of cool down time between.

I hope you can mount the switches better than Moparman did!

The high idle control is awesome in the winter, even in the hot summer as you can idle the truck higher to help the A/C keep the cab cool.

 

well i have already wrecked one switch - it has 5 more terminals on it so i will practice with that with iron tuned down.

think the best method is to tin the tip, tin the terminal, tin the wire - then put the solder down and just tin the wire and terminal together with existing solder?

i also prefer using switches with spade terminals - makes life easier! but, for this project i wanted a nice neat little box - so that i could mount it somewhat cleanly. and yes - the end product will be far neater than his - it will be in a little black project box with just the paddles of the switches showing outside on the front of it.

 

I would also invest in some acid flux. Dip the wire end and the switch end with it. Small diameter solder not the big clumpy stuff. Depending on the wire and switch you could just feed the wire through a small hole in the switch end, most have, and just quickly tin it there. Not heat soaking the switch so much.

Most times the solder won't take if the iron/solder/connections have any contamination on them. The solder paste will help immensely for a quick joint.

 

ok, i can try using flux again. i don't have any because i was told the flux core solder cleans as you go. i guess some extra flux won't hurt though - it disappears super fast. the resistors will fit in the terminal holes, and the wire will not. i am using 18g and i think it will be too thick, but i might be able to squeeze it in there.

thanx,

 

Dewd,
The above advice is heading you in the right direction. Tin the connector and the wire before you try and put them together. Let them cool and apply a little flux to the tinned wire. Use low heat but you may have to experiment a bit to find right temp. The flux makes everything stick together a lot faster. If you can get a really fine solder it will help too. I don't know if Active Electronics is around anymore but somewhere like that would be a good place to look. The stuff you get at CanTire or Princess Auto is usually way too heavy for fine electronics. Kind of like using a shotgun to go gopher hunting.
I am good at the fine soldering right up to the point where my hands shake and I end up with a cold joint. Any chance you can get connectors with pigtails that will slip over the switch contacts? I used to buy bases at Radio Shack for relays and small switches rather than solder to the switches. Sadly, electronics stores are pretty much a thing of the past.

 

Active Electronics is definitely still around as I'm a regular there.
Still a great store..

http://www.active123.com/eng/storeSe...&var=d&ckey=CA

 

i have also frequented that store many times . . . as well as MRO just off of 32nd ave and 12th st . . . another great supply store - and seems to be a bit cheaper.

 

I remember Active back when I worked in Calgary.. Good store! If you think about the current you are working with, you could get some smaller gauge wire while you are at it. The cheap auto stuff is bulky and has way too much coating. Good wire and good solder make it easier. The solder I have for that is .75mm rosin core, but not enough rosin in it so I use flux, both are Kester.

 

If you were in Edmonton, I would be happy to do it for you. I used to do a fair bit of soldering on electronics on downhole logging tools.

 

thanx for all the advice input guys. a guy i work with is going to help me out monday evening. he is an electrical genious with the hands-on skills to back it up.

i'll watch him and take away some first-hand pointers as he shows me how to do it properly.

i'll post back on how it turns out! stay tuned!