Stargeezer

A week ago I received a smarty jr67me. It had been recommended to me by some and others said the H&S. In the end after looking at all the specs of both I ordered the smarty.

I saw the smarty and the H&S were both downloader’s that did the same job. On the surface, they appeared to have the same flexibility with having a certain number of options in each power selection.

The user interface was one point that really drew me towards the H&S, but I decided that since it was going to live its life in a box, not on the dash, the interface was no big deal. I was wrong.

What didn't I like in the Smarty Jr at first 24 hours with it?

The really Cheesy, low dollar user interface and box. Really guys, this is so 1985. real nice LCD displays are cheap today and the $.95 utility box might be ok for a breadboard, one off school projects, but for a commercially produced retail product, think Lamborghini not VW.

The update was a nightmare because the software did not like windows 7 - turns out I'm not the only one who has had this issue. Our home is very heavy with computers - 12 or 13 not including tablets and smart phones. I'm running a pretty good sized network, I'm not a computer *** or phobic, but the update software would not run on most of them. I'd have been up the creek without the computer that’s in the basement.

Download a different zip program, download/unzip/install a special driver, d/unzip/i update program, d/unzip/i the update, find the console program and figure out how to operate it. This is all so awkward, so not required today, it should be much more Plug&Play.

The good news is that it did work - it may not be sleek or pretty, but it does work at a price point $150 below the H&S.

That was pretty much how I saw things over the first few days. Every time I'd try to go through the options, I'd push one of the four direction buttons the wrong way and I'd be sitting there for 15 minutes while it uploaded an update that I choose by error. Perhaps I could have just turned the key off or unplugged it to force it to start back at square one - I was not sure. The cheesy 3 page microscopic lettering in the "instruction book" left me less than inspired.

The instructions were printed so small that I had to find a magnifying glass to read them. Now I am older than a lot of you here and there’s not much in my body that really works like it should, but I've got good vision. I regularly shoot the center out of a 100 yd targets placed at 300 yards with most rifles I own, but I had trouble with reading these.

So at the end of 4 days with the smarty, I ordered the H&S MiniMaxx. Locating a buyer for the smarty turned out to be no problem at all. In our conversation I informed him of my misgivings - all truth in advertising is my motto. The next day I Returned the smarty to stock I shipped it to its new owner and my new H&S arrived.

The decision to go with the MinMaxx over the Smarty was based on;

1. The user interface software. This time I studied the menus - H&S has menus, not just some non-relatable selection that you must make without seeing the other choices.

2. User interface Hardware. The H&S products use a multi-line LCD display that is reminiscent of my smart phone screen. It can display graphics as well as line text. Menu choices are associated with a hardware switch that you touch to make a selection. The software provides for multiscreen and scrolling screen menus - this is a big step over the 2 line by 40 character "screen" of the smarty.

3. It comes with very understandable instructions. It comes with a nicely printed manual - one that you can read. Colored photos and real step by step down load instructions.

4. Customer service. With the smarty, you are totally at the mercy of the dealer you purchased the unit from. I emailed and called smarty on day one for help with a nonresponsive unit (it needed updated, but could not tell me that). One week later, I still have not received any reply or acknowledgment.

The H&S MiniMaxx that arrived Friday afternoon came in with a defective OBD2 block. It happens - if its 1 in a 1000, that one will be mine, so customer support is important to me. The guy at H&S answered his phone and spoke English (if you don't know how important this is, get out your TV owner’s manual and try calling the tech service line). He diagnosed the problem based on what I explained to him and started trying to figure out how to get me the part I needed.

Its just my bad luck that its late on a Friday and UPS did their pickup a couple hours before so it won't ship until Monday, but they are going to ship it next day, so it will be here on Tuesday.

5. There is no way to make ANY choices about defuel points or set any limits on anything in the smarty. You can detune using the Power Of Demand feature. It was one of the things I found less than intuitive. Exactly what is being changed and how it does it, is a mystery. Exactly what benefit it offers is not explained.

One of the things I was looking to do with a programmer was to limit boost to safe levels, and I want to tweak around a little, seeking as much MPGs as possible. Smarty is advertizing is what they are calling the UDC, which is supposed to be a way to build a custom program on your computer, then upload it to your smarty - it would be great if it ever shows up. IF.

6. Price is important, but what is more important is that you get value for the price you pay. Saving a few dollars, but living with frustration over the operation of the interface is just a higher price than I wanted to pay.

All of this combined to make me sell the smarty ASAP and to order my new H&S.

Dieselhed

Good write up. Appreciate the info. I was leaning Smarty as I have one on my '04 but user friendly is what I want on the '11. Since you'll be using both pretty much back to back how about a comparison review on driveability when you get it going? Did you get the trans software? Thanks

Stargeezer

I did'nt buy the trans tune yet. Since its just a download. I thought I could add it later if I decide I need it.

I'd like to hear more about it from guys who are not building power to just rip up the streets Any RV'ers runnig it?

Busboy

A good write up and just confirms I chose correctly. I lived a few days without the trans tune because the unlock code they send to you ended up in my junk mail and was missed. Without the transmission tune but with deletes the transmission seemed to wallow a little and was unsure of where it should be. With the tune it's very smooth and works how you would think it should. I haven't towed with it yet as my RV is parked for the winter but I can't wait to get it out come spring. Definitely worth the money.

Kurt802

Thank you for the review of both tuners. I completed my exhaust delete yesterday. Installed 4" turbo back to stock muffler. Had to remove the transmission support but I knew that going into it from Blake's write up on deleting the 6.7 It took me about 5 hours start to finish. I will be doing the EGR and cooler delete later today and Monday. I'm somewhat apprehensive forfeiting my warranty with just over 2000 miles on my 2012 but I could not keep driving the truck knowing what I know from reading everyone's posts and lack of regret after doing their deletes. I am going to use the H&S programmer for longevity and economy and of course the power. I chose the H&S because of their product service record and feedback from owners here on DTR. I have the HO motor and was curious if the bolts or studs have a higher torque spec than the standard CTD? If Cummins tuned the motor for more hp and torque does anyone think they did anything different? I know the torque converter is beefed up somehow on the HO transmission. I appreciate all the help received since joining the DTR. Thanks.

Stargeezer

My next upgrade is going to be a CAI and studs. I might slip in a intake horn before towing out east next month, but doing these mods have taken a lot out of me physically. A couple days bedrest and I'll be ready for round 3.

03 ant a hemi

That HO motor is not 800 hp at the crank, it is at the rear wheels through use of the tranny.
We are so caught up on HP numbers that we forget that you can add gears to get 1000 hp if you want. Notice the fine print that you must have X tranny with X diff ratio in order to get the 800hp.

What I want to know is what is my engine rated for.

NoSparkplugs

I'm curious Stargeezer, what symptoms did the minimaxx show with the defective OBD2 plug? The reason I ask is that my 2012 is currently dead in the water after my minimaxx locked up halfway through the engine tune download. Everything on the minimaxx side of things works for me but its when it tries to communicate with the truck is when it sits there and does nothing (see my thread in the help section). I've got a buddy with an 08' thats running the minimaxx and we're going to swap out my OBD2 plug with his working OBD2 plug (he's never had an issue with his).

Back on topic, I chose the H&S for the same reasons as you. Its a slick looking device as opposed to the Super Nintendo-looking smarty. And from what I've read their customer support is hard to beat, we'll see what they say on Tuesday and explain my problem to them.

Stargeezer

It never turned on. Not one time. I checked that there was power to the block via the battery wire and the OBD2, that the fuse ws ok and swapped out the HDMI cable - no joy.

The power plug also will not seat fully into the blocks jack and with a strong light a a magnafiying glass, I can see a solder splash down inside the jack. An assembler having a bad day.

We alsonfirmed the head was working by mometarily plugging it into a computer USB port, it lit right up. Which was all we were testing.

Pretty cut and dried.

Stargeezer

BTW nosparkplug, H&S is open monday - call early so they can get it into UPS for you, if its hardware.

Larry

NoSparkplugs

Will do, I thought they weren't open due to Presidents Day in the States?

Kurt802

I was curious if the head studs or bolts were torqued tighter on the HO since Cummins programmed it for more power. Just thinking of the head gasket when the motor is at 100% using the H&S tuning. The stock fuel, air and exhaust mixture has these engines burning at lower temps to reduce NOx and at reduced power. When we use aftermarket programming and eliminate the inert exhaust gas from the combustion process, the exhaust temps rise and I am assuming that the pressure and power increase as well causing potential leak at the head gasket. Can studs be installed with the engine in the truck?

Stargeezer

Thats a holiday that is meaning less and less. Currently, it means almost nothing good.

All the new ones want you think they are so much more important than the old ones and that the old ones got everything wrong, while they try to tear down everything the old ones built.

But yes, they are open.

Blake Clark

Its not horsepower, and not at the rears. Its 800tq rated at the flywheel.


Larry, glad to hear you are enjoying the H&S.

03 ant a hemi

I messed up on the whole issue.
I know when I priced out my truck and I was going through the info for the new trucks one brochure said 800ft/lbs torque at rear wheels with Auto tranny, and 410 axles. I asked abotu this at the time and was informed by not one but to seperate dealers that the rating was at the rear wheels.

I stand corrected in the rating.
Now to figure out how to get the extra torque on my manual.