Removing coil springs
04-06-2012, 07:55 AM
#16
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1) Jack Stands on both sides of the frame
2) Unbolt track bar and end links and Shock tower bolts
3) Jack truck up place stands under frame (High enough to get the full drop on the front end)
4) Now when you start to lower the front with floor jack watch you brake lines not to over extend them. You might have to undo the front drive shaft to get full drop.
5) Remove Springs and place new ones or spacers in.
6) Just do everything in reverse good to go. ( You might notice the track bar pull to one side more, only fix is get adjustable one.
2) Unbolt track bar and end links and Shock tower bolts
3) Jack truck up place stands under frame (High enough to get the full drop on the front end)
4) Now when you start to lower the front with floor jack watch you brake lines not to over extend them. You might have to undo the front drive shaft to get full drop.
5) Remove Springs and place new ones or spacers in.
6) Just do everything in reverse good to go. ( You might notice the track bar pull to one side more, only fix is get adjustable one.
04-06-2012, 08:04 AM
#17
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04-06-2012, 05:53 PM
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Well here is my follow up. I put my leveling kit in today
took me about 6 hours bymyself after my friend bailed
on me. I had a bid of delay after my impact gun crapped
out then I had a hole in the compressor hose so that
wasted some time. Everything came apart pretty good with
no issues, the driver side definitely was easier to install
then the driver side. It took alot of persuasion with 5ft pinch
bar but I got it in. I then installed the new stabilizer links
they went in good, but man putting that track bar bolt in
was a ***** until I called Sean at Lorenz he said put the wheels
on and remove the jack stands start it up and roll the wheel
left and right and it lined right up.
After that I did the stabilizer and rear shocks took it for
a spin and it rode really nice and it looks real tough upfront.
It drives straight no wander or shimmy but I still may bring
it in to get the alingment checked out.
took me about 6 hours bymyself after my friend bailed
on me. I had a bid of delay after my impact gun crapped
out then I had a hole in the compressor hose so that
wasted some time. Everything came apart pretty good with
no issues, the driver side definitely was easier to install
then the driver side. It took alot of persuasion with 5ft pinch
bar but I got it in. I then installed the new stabilizer links
they went in good, but man putting that track bar bolt in
was a ***** until I called Sean at Lorenz he said put the wheels
on and remove the jack stands start it up and roll the wheel
left and right and it lined right up.
After that I did the stabilizer and rear shocks took it for
a spin and it rode really nice and it looks real tough upfront.
It drives straight no wander or shimmy but I still may bring
it in to get the alingment checked out.
04-09-2012, 07:03 AM
#21
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I took it in for a wheel alingment the following day everything
checked out ok wheel is straight handles better than it did.
I got it on the highway brought it up to 70mph and I don't
know if it's more wind noise or if it's my tires but it's a tad
more noisier than before. It also seemed real firm over
bumps but now not as bad like it settled in. Anyone else
experience this?
checked out ok wheel is straight handles better than it did.
I got it on the highway brought it up to 70mph and I don't
know if it's more wind noise or if it's my tires but it's a tad
more noisier than before. It also seemed real firm over
bumps but now not as bad like it settled in. Anyone else
experience this?
04-09-2012, 08:06 AM
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04-09-2012, 08:19 AM
#27
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Lateral misalignment and the constant added pressure of f/r track stress on the ball joints is only one of several issues induced by a cheap lift. Camber is off or cannot be adjusted far enough back into spec due to the axle being pulled rearward. Shocks operate outside their designed range of travel and bottom out. Sway bar links are stressed by an overreach angle. Tire rods are subjected to higher deflection angles. The steering box suffers amplified axial deflection and higher torque loads.
All these factors add up to a much higher wear rate on the all front joints and steering parts.
All these factors add up to a much higher wear rate on the all front joints and steering parts.
04-09-2012, 09:18 AM
#29
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Man, this is just my opinion...but i had a 2004.5 2500 ctd i put the same lift on at 4000 miles put 179,000 miles on it before i sold with no front end problems at all, no ball joint problems, no wheel bearing problems, no tie rod problems, no end link problems, no steering box issues nothing........and i dont plan on doing anything different to mine other than what i told you i did....in my opinion an adjustable track bar is a waste of money...since you had it aligned and all was in spec as i said it probably would be....leave it alone....but yes an adjustable track bar will cause you to need another alignment....the only upgrade i did was add the bilstien extended shocks for the lift and the steering brace because i am running 35 inch tires....again just my opinion