Stargeezer

I'm making a shopping list for my upcoming delete/upgrade. As a part of these changes, I intend to change out the intake. In the area I live, I think I need the grid heater.

If I change to the GDP intake http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr..._id=07511-MFS2 do I retain the OEM grid heater or do I need to change to the http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...0-MF-TVH&rurl=???

What is the purpose of the stock Throttle Valve and what changes will removing it make to the operation of the motor? Are there any other things I need for this part of the operation? Looks like I'm going to go with the H&S for a programmer - anything else needed?

unit74

Buy the flanged unit and the GDP grid heater. I have the flanged unit on the bench and I'm waiting for my throttle valve delete to arrive. Run the air boss GHD and make that engine breathe. I'd also recommend the 3.50 silicon boost tube they make.

New2Diesel

Stargeezer,
I have all the items that you listed and let me tell you first hand, BIG DIFFERENCE. I really can't speak smartly about the TV. I took mine of at about 280 miles.

OPINION: I do not personnaly recommend putting an H&S with those components on any setting other than stock unless you have studs. I have heard some bad stories about the head gasket in these trucks when you push mid 30PSI. Since you can get 625's for the same price as a Mini Maxx I say that is a must!!

Stargeezer

N2D _ "Since you can get 625's for the same price as a Mini Maxx I say that is a must!!"

Thanks Brian, but what are "625's"?

I guess the smarter way to ask my questions is to tell you how I want the truck to run. We haul a camper about 15k to 20k miles a year so I'm wanting best mileage, to make the motor breath right and cleanly and it has to last. It produces enough HP for my needs now, that’s not what this is about. If I was going to go drag racing with it, I'd go for the studs and all the rest, but I can't wrench it myself and I sure don't want a breakdown I can’t fix, while driving through the deserts of the southwest or other barren place.

If the motor wasn't plugged up at the exhaust with the tree hugger filter and strangled in the intake with the dumbest contraption this engineer has ever seen, and if it were not feeding the exhaust BACK into the intake, I would never touch it. But CRAP!!! Why would they increase the displacement and reduce the "breathing" ability? Dumb!

Dieselhed

"625's" are the ARP headstuds. Which H & S programmer are you looking at getting? I believe the Mini Max allows you to set the safety parameters. Limit your boost to 30 psi. No reason to run any other power levels if your happy with the stock power of the truck. I have a feeling once you get all of the emissions deleted you will see a performance gain from the truck finally being able to breathe anyway. They increased the displacement for emissions purposes. I couldn't imagine a 5.9 with all of this emissions garbage on it. I'm in the same boat as you Geez, I'm getting ready to delete my truck with 2,000 miles on it.

RAMRODD

I blew the head on my 2010, So I agree head studs are a must, but I don't know if the 625's are needed. I am thinking of going with the regular studs and putting on a external wastegate.

Stargeezer

Now I'm a little concerned. Just what lead your head blowing? Were you hard on it, towing, raceing or just cruiseing the highway? Any clue how much pressure you were pushing when things got bad?

New2Diesel

As far as a mildly modified truck with the intake and exhaust modifications... You will definately notice cooler EGT's and more performance due to the nature of the delete. I would think that this truck would run great with those simple mods.

As far as the Headstuds, after thorough research there are many options there. Obviously you can keep the stock studs and up the torque a bit. I have no idea what the testing shows on this option but I have read about it helping. Going with the standard ARP studs is definately better than stock (Not Much) but for just a few hundred bucks more why not go with the 625's? The 625 stud is capable of just about anything you can throw at it. I guess one could argue that they are not needed for a stock tune truck.

The H&S parameters are programmable but they host these parametes in a nominal environment. If you simply limit to boost or EGT's there are still a few bugs that can raise the combustion pressure high enough to get "Blow By". Lifting the head means stretching the stud.

As I said before, if you spend almost a grand getting the H&S, why not spend another and make sure that you will never have issues with the studs stretching. Then all you need, with the other mods mentioned, is to add a good lift pump and bump up the tune on the H&S.

This is my opinion anyway. Obviously one thing leads to another. More boost might mean that a new turbine is just a short distance away. In any case, Stargeezer, with those mods mentioned you will definately see a cooler running more powerful truck.

RAMRODD

I tow very heavy and boost was in the low 30's max. After doing delets the egt's were never a problem, and I always felt my truck was weak compared to a few of my friends with deletes. I could not do a burnout, on the wild setting. On my 2012 I did a burn out stock.

In know of a 2011 in the shop yesterday for a new head gausket and studs. He was pulling a good size trailer and was running a H&S with deletes on the hot setting when it blew.

Busboy

If you are going with the H&S programer I would go with the mini max with EGT. This would enable you to limit BOTH boost pressure and EGT those two things should protect your engine. If using H&S why not use their intake manifold and boost tube. They have a lower price than the others and this would enable you to remove the factory throttle valve saving the price of a substitute piece. It also means you only need to buy the EGR cooler delete NOT the EGR AND EGR cooler delete saving a little more money.

Kurt802

Stargeezer, 1300 miles on my new truck. I ordered the Shibby EGR, Cooler and Throttle Valve Delete. The exhaust will be the Diamond down pipe and DPF pipe without bungs. H$S tuner will be my next purchase. Once I have all the parts I will do the delete as outlined by Blake in the 6.7 sticky. I am now concerned about the studs as well. I will just have to monitor the gauges and operate within margins until upgraded to the stronger head studs.

Kurt802

I also ordered the GDP MKII and Big Line Kit for locating a 2 micron filter between the factory filter and fuel injection pump. This will be my first mod to the truck before doing the full delete.

Stargeezer

I really appreciate all the input guys. This is a very big step of faith for me. I hate to blow the warrenty away, but feel that all this "junk" will do nothing for my truck but shorten its life.

I'm takeing a look at the H&S intake as an option over the GDP. So far I had not decided on which exhaust to go with, but I'd like to do a 5" turbo back. I've seen (and heard) a few around and they sound great.

I put the GDP universal fuel filter/water sep. kit under the drivers seat. as a pre filter. I know thats a bit of overkill, but I intend to put the mkII kit under the hood pretty soon, then I'll use a "looser" filter under the seat, and the 2mu. I've thought of pulling the OEM filter off at that point. What do you all think?

BTW, I was looking at the fitting on the bottom of the OEM filter housing the other day. Can anybody tell me how that thing comes apart? It looks like a quick disconnect air fitting, but I didn't try pulling on it.

Thanks again guys.
Larry

New2Diesel

It is a QD (Quick Disconnect) fitting. If you get the GDP kit it will also come with a QD fitting. All you have to do is push in on the blue tab and pull hard. Mine had a blue tab, not sure if they all do.

T210DRVR

I did the California style deletes to make taking the truck back to stock simpler in the event of an inspection. I left the stock muffler in place. I like being a good neighbor and the extra noise created by the lack of a DPF is barely noticeable.