I made it home after 8 months..........
 

Fellow DTR members:

After an 8 month deployment to Djibouti Africa I finally made it home last night. I have not gotten sleep yet because my schedule is all jacked up but bear with me and as soon as "Mr. Sunlight" pops his head out I am going outside to take pics of my truck mods that occurred over the last 8 months.

GDP S2 Intake Manifold
GDP AIR BOSS 67 Intake Plenum/Grid Heater Delete
ARP 625 Headstuds
Raptor 150 w/ 1/2" lines
Weather Tech "Digifit" floor mats

I also have some other mods installed that will not be able to get pics of because they are internal. (Nozzles, Converter, etc) I also have new tires (33" DuraGrapplers), a Hell Bent Steel 2" leveling kit w/ steering stabilizer and sway bar drop, 1" lift blocks for the rear, and Bilstein 2" raised shocks for all fours. Hopefully I can have it installed and aligned by next week.

Anyway, thanks everyone for posting on the DTR while I was away. It definately helped me make the choices to upgrade the exact components that I did. I will also be posting previous data regarding EGT's, Boost, etc... and what tune I was running as well as the current numbers on certain H&S tunes. Obviously now with the 625's I can run the Aggressive Turbo Tuning without any worries and I will also be running this on the "HOT" setting to see how well in check my EGT's are now. Prior to getting any intake mods, on the "Wild" setting with aggressive turbo tuning my truck would immediately hit 1450+ degrees at WOT and I would have to let off. Plus it was not a good idea going over 30lbs of boost with stock head bolts. That is one thing I learned, the stock studs are actually bolts and the ARP 625's are actually studs. They stick out of the head about an inch so there should be no questions when looking at a Cummins motor that has ARP studs vice stock ones.

Also, I will put some pictures of the factory Grid Heater/Intake Plenum. Remember fellas I bought my truck brand new with about 80 miles on it. Before my truck even had 1,000 miles on it I performed the "Full Delete" removing all factory emissions equipment as well as the factory throttle valve. So with that said, my Grid Heater only had approximately 1,000 miles to face the rigors of "REGEN/EGR CONDITIONS". BUT, you will not believe how filthy this thing is.

Finally, I must say that I absolutely HATE paying someone for labor and love learning more and more about these truck. I could not work on this truck while I was in Africa so I searched for a few months on the internet trying to find a reliable Diesel Technician who was well liked, honest, and trusted. So I found a gentlemen named Tim Barber who owns TRE Diesel in Norfolk VA. I spent a few months emailing him back and forth to decide what mods to perform and heard nothing but good things about him. He also was extremely honest in his emails and helped me in every way. Therefore, several weeks ago I had my truck shipped from NC to his shop in VA where he performed all my installation ensuring that my truck was in "Tip Top" condition when I returned from Africa. Let me tell you guys something, you could not ask for a better more honest and willing person. I have nothing but GREAT things to say about him and my truck is absolutely flawless. No scratches whatsoever, no grease stains on the seats or steering wheel, etc.... Ya know, all those things we hate about nasty mechanics, well he possesses none of those qualities and I wanted to give him a public "Shot Out". Anyone on the East Coast, take it from me, Tim is great and is well worth the support. He will have my business for life.

Sorry for the long post but its 0500, I can't sleep, and wanted to get you all interested in the photos prior to posting. If you want any info or specific pics please let me know and I will get them. Hopefully I will have something up within the next few hours.

Welcome home man, and Semper Fi.



-Kris

Glad you made it back man, enjoy it. I am anxious to see the pics you post. I have a cart full at Rollin' Smoke Diesel just waiting to pull the trigger. I to bought my truck with like 70 miles on it and hope to have it fully deleted by 1000! I learn a ton off the guys here that have paved the way on this site! Thanks for sharing...hope to see those pics soon!

Hey one question, any issues with mixing GDP with Shibby/H&S? I am primarily interested in the Intake horn, intake plenum, TV delete, grid heater relocation pieces...also the EGR Cooler delete. I was trying to go with one company, figured the parts would mesh better....I'm feeling Shibby, there stuff looks like good quality and seems to be slightly less spendy compared to GDP. Any opinions?

Thank you for your service Bro. and I'm so glad that we have MEN like YOU!

I've got to run, but I'll be firing a PM at you tonight. Afraid my travel sched got all messed up, but its working out.

Welcome home!

No issues at all with mixing the Shibby Throttle Valve with the GDP Intake manifold. I would say that the majority of these companies have very good components and most of them work well. I personally like the GDP parts over anything I have seen and Richard is super honest and a great guy to deal with. I will more than likely choose his parts over most just because I always get an answer from him and have had ZERO ISSUES associated with any of his items. On the other hand, I have heard good things about Shibby. I just chose GDP because of the customer service and expertise. It is well worth it to me if I have to pay a little more for such a nice product.


TO ALL: OK, so as the day went on here is what I found out. Number (1), the wife lost my digital camera while I was away and in between washing the truck, installing the new floor mats, and trying to test the truck I had no time to go and get a new camera. Good thing is that I have nothing to do tomorrow so that will be the first thing I do so that you guys don't have to keep waiting for the pics. Second (2) using the Mini Maxx and the Aggressive Turbo Tuning I really did not have substantial results. Although with studs I can now have no worries about running 36 lbs of boost, my EGT's are still WAY WAY WAY high. If I run the programmer on "WILD" it will eventually hit greater than 1450 degrees and start to defuel. On "HOT" it does as it always has and immediately hits defuel and I even saw EGT's in excess of 1500 degrees. I was under the mythical belief that I would now be able to run the "HOT" tune but still cannot without hitting some serious EGT's. I will continue to test but quite honestly I have pretty much made the decision that without some further mods I will not be able to run the "HOT" tune. Now I even wonder why H&S even has a "HOT" tune.

Very Very soon I will be putting a Steed Speed manifold on with a new turbine. Probably going to stay VGT because I want the factory style exhaust brake.... More to follow....

The fuel pressure is much much more consistent at WOT with the Raptor 150 vice the stock lift pump.

IN SHORT: I will get this stuff up as soon as I can so please bear with me. Thanks for your patience and hit me with any questions you might have.

Hey Brian

Welcome back state side buddy. Hope the trip went well. I know Momma and the kids are glad to see ya, not to mention the truck needs a little TLC soon too.

Here you will notice that I simply drilled two holes in the A-Pillar and mounted my Mini Maxx. You can route the wire up from below and cut the back suction cup mounting off of the supplied H&S mount. Routing the metal covered tube from the H&S mount is pretty simple and everything fits perfect. I made sure that the metal tube was braced by the factory mounting holes in the A-Pilar so that I can bend it as necessary.

Also, some have relocated the OBDII port so that it is not hanging down as far. Here is a photo of mine. I just pulled the plug out and tie wrapped it up about 3 inches. Make room for my 6'7" frame and size 14 boots. Definately helps. Maybe someone with a little more skill can show me how to make it look purty

Here are some photos of the Raptor 150 mounted on the frame. The factory tank was dropped and all factory items were removed. The draw straw was then tapped into the tank and all QD's were routed along the factory line location. You can also see how it goes into the factor fuel filter housing.

ARP 625 studs. HUGE DIFFERENCE IN APPEARANCE OVER STOCK.

I will post a photo of the factory bolts soon.

No more worries about seeing 36lbs of boost

GDP S2 intake manifold and Air Boss 67

I kept the Shibby TV Delete in case I need to add a grid heater later.

You will notice the fuel rail spacers as well as the pre-tapped bungs for some special accessories if you find the need to add a gage, nitrous, or water meth.

Here is the wiring for the factory grid heater line. The GDP instructions say to disconnect the line from the relay so that there is no risk of shorting that "HOT" wire. Due to the fact that I was unsure about the grid heater, I have the line simply wrapped in hose to prevent shorting.

FOR THE RECORD: I had this work done at TRE Diesel by Tim. He is the one that can take credit for that idea. I would have been the retard that removed the wire and spent hours wondering where I put it.

More pics to follow.

Gonna be posting the factory intake, grid heater, and factory bolts later today.

Thanks N2D! I'm just installing my mini maxx and the photo of the OBD2 box confirmed that there is a problem with the block. My power lead only goes in about 1/4-1/3 of the way, then just stops. I can't see any obstruction, but since it doesn't work from the OBD2 power eiter, there must be a greater problem. H&S is sendinng a new block so I'll be up pretty soon.

Great Work Bro! Thanks for sharing your fun with us.

^^^^^ I thought you had a Smarty?

I did, used it four days and ordered the H&S.

Opening a new thread about the change soon.

Today I did the EGR deletes - pics tonight in a new thread too.

Here are some photos I promissed. Notice the box filled with the old factory studs. Also, the picture of the PN on the ARP Box 247-4204. They also are not the cheapest thing in the world so be prepared to cry a little when you click "Add to Cart."

Here are the photos of the factory intake manifold and intake plenum/grid heater. Remember, I was FULLY DELETED at less than 1,000 miles and right now the truck has 13,000 miles on it. So, unlike some of the photos I have seen these are not too bad. They still have some serious SOOT on them though.

What is amazing is the super restrictive intake manifold. The intake opening is only about 1-1/2" in width. I cannot believe these trucks make so much power, STOCK, with very little breathing capability.

STAND BY FOR photos of the turbo manifold, turbo, upgraded CP3, and injector installation photos. (Probably about 2-3 weeks from now.)

Looking good!

Yeah, I couldn't believe the soot buildup in my EGR after only 11k. Unreal.

New2Diesel, did you install a liberty fuel canister? or just delete the factory fuel pump? I see that your running an aftermarket fuel pump. I've been meaning to do a fass 150 installation myself, as I plan to run twin cp3's[coffee]

Tim Barber from TRE Diesel dropped my factory tank and removed the factory fuel pump and all associated un-necessary wiring/piping. I would have done the same but since I was deployed I simply sent the truck to him with some guidance about what I wanted. As far as I am concerned, that is all extra weight.

10lbs=1hp

Therefore I want all the extra hp I can get.

As far as your twin CP3 comment, I was thinking just getting a modded CP3???

I am getting a new manifold and turbo so I really am not schooled on the CP3 mods. I am trying to learn though.

Hey Bro, Are you running a CAI? After you changed the intake horn for the GDP, did you notice any change in performance?

I want to drop the EGTs as much as possible while towing, so I'm trying to decide if either will give me any help to that end.

Your work has to be making a real difference in the life and power of yours. Great Job!

I am not running a CAI!! There is no quantifiable results that show it makes any difference what so ever. I did completely gut my factory box though.

As far as my testing, there have been ZERO performance gains in the installation of the intake horn or the Air Boss 67.

I want to be perfectly clear, based off of my current mods, there have been ZERO benefits to installing the intake manifold, plenum, nor deleting the grid heater. Obviously flow is much better but as far as readout from the gauges and mini maxx, I have seen no difference. Nothing greater than 50deg.

With that said, the factory turbo is terrible. Based on my research and discussions on my lack of gains, due to the fact that I am running aggressive turbo tuning the turbo is heating EGT's up too much at 36psi. I am about to install a new manifold and turbo to test even further. Once that is done I hope I see results.

One thing is for sure, with ARP 625's installed there is no worry to seeing 36+lbs of boost.

Thanks for the info. Perhaps I'll make the studs my next move. Looking at the specs for the 425's and 625's theres not a lot of tensile strength difference between them (220k vs 260k), about 8.5%. I have no idea what the stock studs are rated as. Guess I need to do a lot more research.

I am not an expert on the tensile strengths of the 425/625 comparison. I am sure there is research somewhere that states what kind of boost each were tested at. Still have yet to push my truck over 36 PSI. With the turbo and manifold replacement I should be around 42 PSI though. Still not a problem for the 625's

UPDATE:

Guess what just arrived!!! Hell Bent Steel 2" leveling kit with the sway bar drop kit and the steering stabilizer. Also got the Bilstein 5100 2" over stock shocks with the Bilstein steering stabilizer shock. Top Gunz Customz 1" rear lift blocks also came in.

Nitto Dura Grappler 285/75-17's will be on the stock wheels.

Also, here's the fun part, PDI turbo manifold and Industrial Injection Silver 66 turbo.

The next photos will be of all this swapped out and installed on the truck. Expect me to run 45PSI for a little and see what the EGT's do.

Now that we know with the factory turbo and all my other mods you cannot run a "Wild" or "Hot" tune, lets see what happens with the new turbo.

Uh, did someone say signature change?

Nice tires, keep us posted. I want to run the same tire, but the LT285/55R20. Been thinking about running a long arm kit/rear traction bars, but I use my truck for work, so it pains me to say its not going to happen anytime soon.

I tried to post pics yesterday but have been having some issues with my card reader. Wife gets home tomorrow and will fix the problem.

OFFICIAL STATEMENT FOR ALL: The Nitto Dura Grappler 285/75-17 WILL NOT scrub any portion of the truck at "Full Turn". I have a 100% stock suspension and stock wheels and the tires fit flawlessly.

I will still be doing a leveling kit but wanted to get the word out.

What happens when you are on wild or hot? I guess I missed a update.

On "Wild" or "Hot" I immediately hit over 1400deg.

I don't even try it anymore. I just did it after my latest installs. Once I install my new manifold and turbo I will let you know how things went.

Thats strange, I don't ever see any temps any where close to that.

I am running the Aggressive turbo tuning. I see 36 PSI at WOT. With the SS66 that I am installing I expect to hit 45-50 PSI. Or at least that is what I am told. I am here to test it out

Here are the photos of my truck with the Nitto Dura Grappler in stock form, and then with the Hell Bent Steel 2 1/2" Leveling Kit, Bilstein 5100's. I am installing a 1" Top Guns Customz lift block in the rear after seeing the truck. That will make it 100% level.

What do you all think?

Looking good. I love everything about that truck except for the color. That has got to be the worst color combo Ive ever seen.....


:hehe:


Id leave it sitting just as it does. Looks perfect.

You stick that SB on that thing yet?

You know, looking at those pics again, I think that level kit made your truck even shinier!

That thing is awesome!

New2diesel, Looking awesome buddy. I have the same colors on my truck, except I own a crew cab, not a mega.[coffee]

I'm going to put my 2010 rims onto my 02 and run the nitto R17/295 70 trail grappler. I do lots of off-road/snow with my 02 truck.

I bought a set of R18 295/65 goodyear duratrac mounted on mht fuel hostage rims. I also bought a set of bilstein 5165 remote for the front and a set of 5100 for the rear. Also order a front steering box stablizer for the truck. Hopefully it will help the truck in the snow/mud, as I've been running the stock tires up to now.

Blake, I noticed the same thing with the truck getting shiny after the install.... I don't think that I was ready for a "Self Cleaning" leveling kit.

As far as the Turbine, YES, the turbo and PDI manifold is installed. But, I am in AZ doing some training and I have not even seen the truck in the last week. In less than a month I will be home conducting a full test on the truck.

OBTW, I am also going to have a "M3GA" full race Suncoast transmission to install when I get home. I 1st want to see if the turbine setup does as advertised. IF NOT, REST ASSURED, I will be installing a Garret Water Cooled Ball Bearing Turbine next..... OR, I will run the II SS66 as the bottom turbine and go with a seperate turbo as compound.

I KNOW, INSANE, but we will see what happens.

If as some point going twins, the Garrett turbo (GT37 or GT40) or the S366 as the top over a larger turbo like a 80mm to 95mm inducer for the bottom. Plan on installing larger nozzles just to make it worth the extra effort. Even might require CP work or an additional CP.[coffee]

The stock 6.7L nozzles and the right tuning might get you to around 500rwhp, which is very streetable with the S366 as a single.

Sweet keep us posted on your findings.

UPDATE: Well I have good and bad things to say after recieving my Industrial Injection Turbo and manifold. I ordered it directly from II and was guaranteed that there would be step by step installation instructions with the system. GUESS WHAT, NO install instructions. I wish I remember the guys name who I spoke with but I will definately be calling them on Monday.

Anyway, after looking at the install and observing the factory set-up I noticed some things and have some questions.

The PDI Manifold has a pre-tapped hole for what looks to be for an EGT probe but its on cylinder 3. The Factory set-up has some plug w/connector coming from the factory wiring harness into the factory manifold. What is that? Do I need to tap a new hole for an EGT probe on cylinder 5 or 6 and just plug the one on cylinder 3 that the PDI manifold has already?? Also, the IISS66 came with 4 studs and nuts which I thought were for mounting the turbo but the actual manifold came with 2 studs and nut. I AM CONFUSED. I do not know which studs/nuts to use in order to mount the new turbo to the new manifold. I also do not know what to do with the manifold or how to route the EGT probe. The PDI 2-piece manifold has cylinders 1-2-3 completely seperate from cylinders 4-5-6. They come together where the turbo mounts onto it.

Anyway, can you guys help me?

Also, with all the coolant draining out of the block, once I plug it, how do I ensure the system is purged????

UPDATE: Please read the post prior to this one.

The complete installation of my PDI manifold and II SS66 is complete. RESULTS: It has 100% eleviated all EGT issues associated with this vehicle. I currently have the wastegate set at 45PSI and with running the H&S Aggressive Turbo Tuning on "HOT" (Which is the highest setting) I saw a peak WOT EGT of 1200 degrees. That is 1200 degrees from a Pyro installed between the 5th & 6th cylinders. In Short, this is a guaranteed way to fix EGT issues but I do not recommend this install unless you have studs.

PROBLEMS DURING INSTALL: You will definately have to find bolts/studs to mount the manifold to the turbo. II did not send me any appropriate mounting hardward for this install. All parts I got from Lowes and all items were Grade 8 hardware. Fitting the factory airbox back on was an absolute nightmare. If you cut 2" off the factory tubing then you will have no issues. I WILL POST PICS LATER!!!

Questions: Why will my H&S only read 36 PSI? Do I need the factory Exhaust Pressure sensor that was mounted in the factory manifold? Do I need to re-install the factory heat shield that was beneath the EGR cooler or can I just leave it off? How do I adjust the wastegate for more boost without taking the turbo off?

I have seen so much negative stuff about II that Im gonna stay clear from them. Mainly customer service issues.

The reason you are only gonna see 36PSI is because that is the upper limit of the factory MAP sensor. The H&S takes it reading from there so.....

If you want a true boost reading you are gonna need an analog gauge. I would venture to say that you are pushing a bit more than 36PSI.

BTW that plug in the exhaust, Im assuming that is the factory drive pressure sensor you are referring to. It goes into a sensor near the thermostat housing?

Is it OK for me to leave that sensor out?