OK just got back!!! OMG!!! Same road, Temp about 8 deg cooler today but a little bit of wind today. Rest computer same place, brought up to 68mph put cruze on and went 28mi turn off cruz roll up off ramp.

Stock.............. 12.0 MPG went from 11.9 to 12 as I stoped.

H&S full delets. 21.6 mpg

I can't believe it myself!!! Now I know 28 miles is not the tell all but no matter how you slice this it kicks ***!! did a lot of back roads some big hills and made 7 stops and only drove about 5 miles on the highway on the way back and I got on it a LOT the rest of my trip, did 77 miles total and the computer says 17.3 right now.

Needless to say I am VERY happy.

PS this was on the wild setting also.

 

I wish I could do the deletes on mine, but unfortunately living in a Texas county that requires annual emissions testing I am unable to do so.

Guess I will just have to learn to be happy with what I have...

 

Just put the truck back to stock when you have to go for your inspection, no?

 

Can you post a list of parts? Options considered ect.?

 

Guys, this is awesome news. I do have a question, is this detectable when getting service work done? I’m a tad nervous about the warranty work? I was under the assumption that people waiting on the new Smarty was due to it being undetectable. Honestly, I don’t know squat about diesel, but this is great news and certainly worth the $1300.

I’m ready to pull trigger now, just need to have some confidence that I will still be under warranty.

Thanks
JAM

 

Mini Max
EGR/Cooler delete kit
DPF delete (down pipe and straight pipe)
Cap kit (to cover unpluged sencers)

 

Bad news is I think the dealer would know even if u take it all off and go back to stock. If your dealer is cool and its not a motor warranty issue they should look the other way. as for the motor I don't see the cummins haveing issues, Electrical/computer isues who knows.

All I can say is I am VERY happy with it and don't plan to look back.

 

Honestly,

I don't know how much work is associated changing the truck back to stock. Do you have any clue?

Will it take me 4-6 hours to put the junk back on for a 30 minute inspection?

Sorry I'm kind of ignorant about it.

Advise or help would be appreciated.

 

stidwell.. i was told if it looks like all the clamps and bolts look like they have been messed with dodge will void your warranty. They know whats all out there for aftermarket kits.. If your dealer isn't a good one you will be left out to dry for warranty claims..

 

Hmmm..how does one find out if a Dealer is a "good" one or not? I asked the service person at the dealer I bought my truck from about deletes and her response was "huh - what do you mean?"
Bought my truck at Sherwood Dodge - any one from around the edmonton area have any expeirence with this place?

Waiting for my quote on the full delete package - think i might go ahed regardless - MPG is too big of a gain to ignore - I have lots of friends who are good with diesels and drink beer

 

You don't need to take off all those parts under the hood to have the truck deleted. The egr cooler and the egr soleniod can stay in place. You just need to remove the DPF/cat to get the truck deleted. That part is easy to put back in/out for dealer visits. My truck been that way for over a year now. No issues. Been meaning to install a 2nd gen manifold and dump the stock manifold and air horn, but you don't need to do that to delete your truck. As for putting stuff on/off for warranty, just be carefull on how the truck comes apart, and you'll have no issues re-installing them. Most people just hack off of the emission stuff, with no hope of going back to stock.

 

Who is everyone dealing with when picking up the delete kits pricewise? I am leaning towards a H&S Mini Max as possible going with a complete 4" turbo back MBRP T304 system

 

Does this mean if you use the H & S system your factory dash gauges don't work? and you have to watch the digital read out on the H & S controller you keep in the truck? And in advance if yes, all the gauges or which ones?

 

no. the factory gauges still work. I am just old school and like analog gauges such as EGT, Trans and Boost. the tuners such as H&S read off of what the ECM is seeing (other than EGT since there is no probe on the dodges from the factory like the ford does) and as far as I am concerned they are not all that accurate.

 

There is lots of information available on the OBDII port, that can't put a guage on. I wish you could data record it and be able to download the data. I aggree on the boost pressure, but that the pressure what the engine computer uses, be it right or wrong. Not sure at what point that the pressure would no longer be linear. Fuel pressure would be another good gauge to have, plus a trans temp.

The new fourth gen, there is really no good place to put the gauges. I like the grab handle on the pillar. I have gauges on my older truck, I do prefer analog gauges over the digital.