Arp studs
Arp studs
GETTING NEW 2012 3500 IF I DON'T WANT TO DO CRAZY MODIFICATIONS AND JUST RUN THE MINI MAXX WITH THE DELETES DO I NEED TO DO HEAD STUDS LIKE 425S OR 625S. I HAD 800FT LBS IN MY LAST TRUCK AND THAT WAS PLENTY.

It's not necessary with the H&S tunes unless you start messing with hot unlocks. It's precautionary but not needed unless you are really feeling the need for more power.
If you do get them 425's are all you need.
If you do get them 425's are all you need.
Or spend NO money and just time.
Pulled each stock head bolt, one at a time.
Lube with ARP stud/thread lube (includind underside of bolt)
Torque back to 100 ft. Lbs.
Once all are done.
Start in the middle, working your way out in a circlular pattern.
Take them up in 5 ft. Lb. incriments. Give 10 min cool time between each incriment.
Take them all the way to 135-145 ft. Lbs.
Done!!
No $ spent and will hold just fine.
Pulled each stock head bolt, one at a time.
Lube with ARP stud/thread lube (includind underside of bolt)
Torque back to 100 ft. Lbs.
Once all are done.
Start in the middle, working your way out in a circlular pattern.
Take them up in 5 ft. Lb. incriments. Give 10 min cool time between each incriment.
Take them all the way to 135-145 ft. Lbs.
Done!!
No $ spent and will hold just fine.
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Nothing wrong with just retorquing the stock head bolt up to 125ft*lbs. The stock stuff is pretty good for stock stuff. Its probably almost the same tensile strength of arp425's.
Some guys have gone as high as 135ft*lbs, but I've done 125ft*lbs
Some guys have gone as high as 135ft*lbs, but I've done 125ft*lbs
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