My H&S tuner allows me to adjust injection timing. I've never messed with it because I don't really know what it does. What benefits do you get from doing this? And what are the drawbacks? I'm running my H&S on the "no power" setting right now because I'm a little afraid of turning it up too much with gauges and head studs, but I've wondered what adjusting the injection timing would do.

 

From what I've read, stick to level 1 or 2 for running the no power or mild settings. H&S sets the timing on their programs to level 3 as the default setting and its a little much for stock headbolts on those two programs. I've been running mine at level 2 for the past few months and so far so good. I still want to do head studs at some point this year though.

 

Advancing the timing will lead to earlier and from what I can understand, a more complete combustion. Ergo, better fuel economy.

However, too advance a time, under the right conditions, has been suspect to head gasket failure.

I have been running the default timing with no issues and, in my opinion, acceptable mileage for my mods, driving habits, and big ole fat right foot.

 

I assumed that on the No Power setting the timing was set to "least aggressive", which I think is stock. Are you saying that it's on level 3 even on the no power setting?

 

Unless something has changed, the tunes come set to H&S's default timing setting, which is, level 3.

 

Yes, I believe H&S does this due to the fact that its a tuner, most guys are gonna play with the hotter tunes which require more timing. With that said the 4th gen PCM does not allow the timing to be switched on the fly. When you upload the programming to say level 2, it stays at level 2 for all the programs, no power, mild, wild and hot. Its my understanding that the timing on 3rd gen 6.7s (07.5-09) can be changed on the fly due to a different style PCM being used.

With that said, the "no power" tune is not a stock tune without the regen features. Its actually slightly derated according to a few tuning shops/MCC whiz's. Which would explain why my truck felt weaker than stock on that tune. A dyno session would be needed to verify it though. The mild tune is closer to the stock tune, again what I've read and been told. Don't shoot the messenger.

 

Interesting. If that's the case I should just move it back to mild or wild and drive it like I stole it. I do worry about that head gasket though.

 

More timing equals more cylinder pressure. There is less deck surface on a 6.7 deck/head than a 5.9L. Also cummins surface prep isn't so great. Mix in loose head bolts/rocker arms adjuster nuts that aren't torqued up to spec.

As for timing on tune, depends on which H&S tune you run. Best way to see what in the tune, is to dump the tune into a program like MCC and take a look see. Seen a few tunes on stock mode tunes have more boost/fuel than the hot setting did, guess that explains why there is 42 different tunes for the black maxx.

I would do at a least retorque the stock head bolts. I have mine at 135ft*lbs and relashed my valves to 10/20 thou on the int/exh. The retorques should be done increments of 125, 130 and 135 done as per the dodge FSM torque pattern.