thegoat86

I need info on how to fool my truck into doing a regen. My dash says dpf full, low power mode, go to dealer.

Not going to go to dealer.

I ordered my delete kit, tuner, turbo back dpf/cat delete. Waiting for packages to arrive.

Two questions;

1. Will the dpf code clear and the truck get out of low power mode after I do my deletes and send the ecm a tune?

2. Is there a way to force the truck to do a regen now so I can drive now under full power?

AKGUY09

I don't think you can force the regen once it gets to that level. You can probably clear the codes with whatever tuner you're going to use and then delete.

thegoat86

akguy, we have the same tuners and deletes from the same company.

I still have three days to drive it under crud power until my stuff gets here. That's if post goes without holdups.

Can I unplug the batteries for a few hours and hopefully it will just go into an idle regen once I hook batteries up and start truck?

1-2-3

I doubt it. I would say go by an AutoZone or other auto parts places. They all will read your codes for free. Some will clear them.

thegoat86

Yeah.... so...... guess nobody knows. Which is unfortunate. There are lots of us on the gen 4 and some on the Gen 3 boards who have this problem. And are tired of dealers in our pockets.

So... I took it upon myself to figure it out.

Here is the procedure to force a regen on a 6.7 truck with a "full DPF" code referring you to a dealer:

This is a difficult procedure and will take even the novice of us some time to really grasp.
I mean, it is really so complex, I might need to have more room than this forum can provide to insert all of my testing and findings.

So here goes:




1. Place 500lbs in truck bed. If not an option, tow a small utility trailer weighing at least 2k lbs.

2. Find a long road or highway where a minimum speed of 65mph can be maintained constant for 20 mins. (Understanding that with the truck in a reduced power mode it will take longer to get up to speed.)

3. Drive the truck at speed specified, in a gear that will allow engine rpm to be over 2k at all times.

That's it. The high rpms will blast enough soot out that the dash message center will start to read DPF at 90, 80, 70%. Then once it hits 70% the regen will start. Because of the high idle and hot gases passing through, it will regen quickly. Mine took five minutes.

Because I have a VVT in my truck, I did a fourth gear exhaust brake from 65 to 35 just to be sure I pounded any remaining soot out. This may not be an option for automatics.

So there she goes. I am still deleting. But hope this helps another individual who may not want to go to a dealer for something like this.

Hopefully a mod will add to tech section. This took like a whole thirty minutes of my time and should be in record somewhere for my accomplishment.

1-2-3

I believe the perceived idea behind your question was something like, can a controller or programmer turn on a regen cycle, or maybe is there a procedure like, lock and unlock the doors three times with one hand tucked in your pocket. It's always been known to clear soot out of any of them to put a load on it and get the heat up.

BigIron70

You need to reset the REGEN timers first, REGEN will ne disabled with active code. I usually go drive vehicle until a p1451 sets then I can do a stationery REGEN at the shop. Or go drive it for 45 minutes or so. But if a P242f sets while driving it will disable the REGEN process again. I had to reset the timers some times two or three times before a REGEN will finish completely with out setting a P242f code. The procedure is wrong since the P242f will not clear and it will stay active until the REGEN timer are reset first. Then drive vehicle until a P1451 sets then a stationery REGEN can be performed. I work on these trucks everyday for the past 25 years and this is the only way to try and save your DPF. If face plugged you will be wasting your time, replace the DPF.



STATIONERY REGENERATION





1. With the scan tool, erase DTCs, reset regenerative filter timers, and drive vehicle until P1451 resets (this will allow you to perform a stationary Desoot).






NOTE: The vehicle will not allow the Stationery Desoot to run if the P242F DTC sets. For this reason, test drive the vehicle as close to the shop as possible in order to get back to the shop before the P242F DTC can set.




2. Perform the scan tool initiated Stationary Desoot.




3. After the Stationary Desoot is completed, erase the DTCs with the scan tool.

thegoat86

This process worked well. My check engine light went off on its own. There are NO codes or pending codes on my scan tool. The comp cleared it after one day. I didn't reset a thing.

Regardless, this works. Dealers and mopar monkey wrenches will say hit the dealer. No need.

Load + high rpm + 30 mins of drive time = regen (Even when the truck tells you low power mode see dealer; it will clear) Found a loophole.

I am only posting my findings to help others. Mechanics love their jobs and naturally want to keep us on their racks. Appreciated.

You can try the process or just do the deletes like I am doing. I received my delete kit and tuner today. I am waiting for my down pipe dpf/cat delete.

But am still happy to have a clean dpf so I can get to work. All without making my dealers boat payments.

1-2-3

As soon as we know we are clear on taxes this upcoming season, I'll be deleting mine In the meantime, next weekend, I'm removing the egr and cooler and intake and going to scrub out every inch of it. I might take a Saturday and take the dpf off just to look at it internally. There are some ways to clean it with some fluids but I'm not sure about that. I saw one guy on youtube power washing the inside of his.

1-2-3

Oh, please report back your results. I'd like to hear how it went. The whole process.

I've been concerned' that I don't drive mine far enough or hard enough. We were planning a trpi with the rv soon. Just got my hitch in last week. Then the place we were going to got about 30 feet of rain. Yes I said that right. It's a riverside park. The pictures are unbelievable. It needs a new inspection so I may just hook it up, get that done then take it on an hour trip up the highway and back.

BigIron70

Our dealership is filled with cracked DPF's because people decided to drive their vehicle hoping it would fix itself WRONG!. $3000 dollars later they changed their tune. It's your vehicle and you can do what you want with it. But be forewarned if you continue to drive with active code you will be buying a DPF soon. Plugged DPF is result of too much soot being produced, Max soot loads are 4 grams in 10 minutes of driving at 1900 RPM. If over this amount your diesel is producing too much. EGR valve, turbo, injector all can cause excessive soot which will result in DPF becoming plugged up and excessive REGENS. If you have soot on your tail pipe outlet then it's already to late. The DPF is cracked.

1-2-3

On a '12 is there a regen notice that will show

thegoat86

Bigiron, held my tongue long enough. Thanks for the input. glad you are a diesel mechanic. READ my post. I have NO codes. Check engine light went away after three key turns. GONE. NO ACTIVE OR PENDING codes. I have no soot on my tail pipe tip. I FORCED a REGEN by doing the things I wrote about. From plugged to no codes. I am glad you are trying to help. I would love for you to put your scan tool on my truck so you can see some of us do know what we are talking about and doing. And when we don't, we ask. Trying so hard to prove I am wrong is bordering on portraying you as a

This is advice only. Not orders, misleading, the end all right way, or anything else. I am sharing my experience. That is what the forum is for. Sharing and trying to help where possible. And if I help one person, jobs done. I wish I would have read a post like this when I was in need.

Your degree in diesel mechanics or years in trade does not negate our intelligence. I appreciate your input. If I was keeping my dpf I might, say again might, have had a garage run my codes with their tech tool. But I am not keeping anything.

This was meant to be (advice) not gospel, for someone who threw a code and their truck went into limp mode or reduced power mode. So they could regain the full use of their vehicle until they chose to, or chose not to make a dealership visit. (their truck, their choice)

Whether you agree with me or not, my findings are accurate and true. My truck runs like it did a few months ago. There had been a gradual loss of power over the last few months. Now it runs like it did when it was new.

All that said and done.

I will report on my budget deletes and fuel savings power gains ect. I will also time how long it takes a novice to install all the parts. This is definitely not my 98 12v. On Saturday I pulled my 16K toy hauler, with 10mgp at 55mph. 5th gear, rpms around 1900-2000. I am hoping to see a little increase in MPG and power. I am also going to shop for an EGT gauge so I can keep an eye on things. I am saving more money for the CTS monitor.

1-2-3, There is only a notice that pops up in the info center on your dash to let you know regen is happening. If it starts saying the exhaust filter is 70% or more, then I would do the process I did before it gets plugged. It doesn't take long for them to fill.

thegoat86

I am going to post my work on the performance page. here;

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...leting-323474/

Thanks for checking out my post.

BigIron70

Sorry I got your goat no pun intended, it's all good. We are all here for one reason to help other members. If my years of experience can help someone that can't afford to have diagnosed then I am happy to do that as you can see by my post count of 3,925