OK after about two years of this my dad and I decided to track this issue down, here is what we found.

Under the drivers side door sill there is a plastic channel that protects all of the wiring. Well this is the location that some genius engineer decided to put a 3 way splice. We found this splice which was corroded to pieces. My dad who has much more patience than I crimped, soldered and shrink wrapped up a new splice and wala! Windows now worky.

Thanks Dad!

Hondo

 

I'm going to look into the wires. Mine is doing the same thing and I was about to order the new part.

 

Thanks to you and your Dad! I will be doing this chore this weekend.

 

I found out last night that the reason no other window switches worked was because the main power wire (yellow) wasnt making a solid connection on the drivers side controls. The way I fixed it was to put a meter on the passenger side control then cut a 1/8-1/4 inch of scrap wire and jammed it into the female side of the plug on the drivers side harness and plugged it back in and saw a constant 11.75 -12.00 volts on the meter. Vola, all the window switches work again.

 

Well I don't know what I have. I don't see a change on the meter when I check continuity from the power peg to the lock out switch peg on the switch. I don't get continuity from the drives side to the passenger side. I don't get continuity from the plug to where I see it go into that junction box under the carpet. I can't tell if it's a wire problem or a switch problem or both.

Ok. I took a quick break before posting and did some more testing. I clearly don't think I understand how the switch works. I also found out my multi-meter lead was broken inside the end. I hope to have better luck tomorrow. I now have continuity between the door plug and the floor where the wire goes into the black plastic.

Where is that 1 to 3 connection within that box? Does anyone know how to test the switch to know if the lock out is working or not? Right now I've checked continuity from power peg to lock out peg with both the switch in and out. No change with switch position. Same is true with the ground peg.

 

Quit checking for continuity and start checking for voltage at the different points, and use a good ground for your meter. You should have 12V on both sides of the lockout switch when it is not locked out, and 12V on only one side when the switch is locked out. If you have 12V on both sides of the lockout, all windows should work with their respective switch.

If you have 12V on both sides of the lockout switch, and the passenger window switches don't work, then go down under the carpet and look for that 3-way splice (under left kick panel, IIRC). One side is power from the lockout switch when not locked out, another side goes to the Driver's rear door window switch and the 3rd goes to the passenger side windows. All of these 3 wires should have 12V or 0V. If there is any mix, the splice is crap; fix the splice.

If your problem is like mine, it is the lockout switch. Percussion maintenance worked for me when I took it apart last time. Worked for about 8 months now. If I have to go into it again to fix it, I'll just jump (bypass) the lockout switch. I don't need it.

Good Luck,

 

Mine stops working about one time per year. I have always fixed it by hitting the arm rest a couple of times. Good for another year, however I might try looking at the wires now that you guys have mentioned them.

 

I'm not certain what the other side of the lock out switch would be. I put 12.50 volts into the switch at the power peg. I put the negative lead on the battery negative terminal. I get about 11.9 volts at the lock out peg whether it's in or out. No change. The peg right below the lock out has nothing no matter what but I don't know what that peg is for yet. I need new leads for the meter.

 

THe wire from the lockout to the other windows is Orange/Light Blue if I remember properly. Just follow that wire and ***** it with you tester lead. (we used a safety pin). If you loose 12 volts anywhere then your problem is between where you lose the reading and the last place you had a reading. My splice was well within the plastic channel under the sill. we had to unsrew it from the floor and untape it to pull the wire bundle out to find the splice.

Hondo

 

Ok. I bought a new multimeter. I couldn't get leads for the old one. Tomorrow I hope to give it a better shot at trouble shooting. I would still like to understand how to see if the switch works.

 

Ground the black lead to your meter. Leave the lockout switch off (unlocked) ***** the Orange/Light Blue wire. If you have 12 volts you are good. Just to double check now click the switch on (locked) check the wire again and you should have 0 volts. If you check the wire right as it comes out of the switch that will tell you if the switch is bad. Now go to another window (Front Passenger) And check the same wire. Check the other doors. If they don't have power on that wire then go back to the begining and follow that wire. Wherever you lose 12 volts then your break is between there and the last spot you had 12 volts. Hope that helps.

Hondo

 

Ok. Now I understand. I'll put the switch back in the truck and test it like it is used.

 

I finally got a chance to check it in the truck with power to the door. 12.50 volts in and nothing out. No matter what. Took off the switch and I have continuity from the plug to the spot in the wire I tested so the switch is bad.

 

Rockauto has them for under $80. Here is the schematic and the plans I'm gonna take when the time comes.
Evening adult beverage time. . .

 

I use http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/par...?siteid=214583 They are cheap and OEM parts.