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Wheel lug nut tourque

Old Dec 9, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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Question Wheel lug nut tourque

Whats the right tourque for the wheel nuts?

140 ft/lbs ?
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 10:10 PM
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I thought it was 110 ft/lbs but i really dont know why I think that.
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:20 AM
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135 ft/lbs
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
torque chart we have at the dealership says 140 for single rear wheel, 145 for dually
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by banana
Whats the right tourque for the wheel nuts?

140 ft/lbs ?
it's in your manual,READ IT
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:23 PM
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no antisieze
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 03:45 PM
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Service manual says 120 to 150 with 135 being mid for the 2500. It's 10 higher for the 3500 DRW. I've had good luck setting at 125 since new.

Pete
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by enafzige
no antisieze
Is that a statement? If so why? Or is it just a question, asking if there should be no anti sieze?
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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Is that a statement? If so why? Or is it just a question, asking if there should be no anti sieze?
Sorry...it's a recommendation learned from experience. Wheel lugs are meant to be put on dry. Don't use oil, anti-sieze, lubricant, etc.

There are several cases of broken studs resulting from the use of anti-sieze. If you've done it (like me) clean off thoroughly with brake cleaner.

--Eric
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 05:51 PM
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I tightened them to 130 ... and they seem to like being that tight! haha

I am glad I checked - almost all of them were not tight enough... tire guys must have had the tourque setting on "Toyota Prius Hybrid"...
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by enafzige
There are several cases of broken studs resulting from the use of anti-sieze. If you've done it (like me) clean off thoroughly with brake cleaner.
--Eric
Bring up this old thread because I've got questions on the topic of Anti sieze on wheel studs.

Been reading about this topic on other forums (other vehicles) and many say it's good to use anti-sieze because it gives a truer load level...... removes the friction from rusted threads on older vehicles, which can result in under torque or uneven torque. Kind of makes sense to me.

On the subject of broken studs..... seems to me it's easier to snap a dry, rusted stud than one with anti sieze?

One other comment.... those recommending use of anti sieze say torque about 10% less, due to lubricated studs.

Anyone have thoughts?

RJ
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Stopped being lazy and tried a few searches!
Think I found a professional answer from someone that has lived a while (sometimes important).
If interested in what I uncovered ....see HERE

RJ
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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ANTI-seize,,, oh he11 yes,,, get accurate torque reading,,, along with NO GALLING of threads. Been using this forever on me lugs.
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Old Aug 13, 2010 | 11:59 PM
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I was always told to not use oil or anti-seize on anything you didn’t clean off and use a torque wrench on. That way the bolt or nut wouldn’t fall out or off due to improper installation. The rust and crud would keep it in place.
Other than that, you should use oil or anti-seize on any bolts or nuts that you might have to remove later (meaning all of them). However, you need to use the proper torque specs to achieve the “clamping force”. If not, you should put some dirt and rust on them to keep them from vibrating off.
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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bark
I was always told to not use oil or anti-seize on anything you ....... use a torque wrench on. That way the bolt or nut wouldn’t fall out or off due to improper installation.
What about head studs??

Enough members have been using anti sieze for enough yrs... I think the consistant and proper "stud stretch" seems more important.
Especially on my 9 yr old, rusty studs. With proper tension, the lug nuts should be less likely to loosen....
and with equal tension on all eight studs, there should be less change of wheels flying off from stud breakage. JMO

RJ
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