I am on the verge of purchasing a new 2500 CTD (QC,,3.73,4wd,anti spin) which will be used to pull 12-15 gooseneck loads of Christmas trees each year weighing 15k-20k. Approximately 3,000 miles loaded and 3,000 unloaded each year. For the other 11 months, it will be mostly be used for a 60 mile commute empty on rural mountain roads.
I am out of the loop as far as buying new trucks go, so here are a few questions;

1) Is there any harm in pulling loads with a new truck before it is broken in (under 1,000 miles) ?
2) Fuel economy when truck is empty is a huge concern. Which setup and accessories will maximize mileage ? What is flash ?
3) What is the best way to go with bedliners-shells or sray-in and bedcovers ?
4) The exact truck I want arrived at our local dealer two days ago.
Is $6100 off the sticker acceptable considering its local ?
5) What would be considered top of the line as far as brake boxes and fold-down 5th whell ball hitches ?
6) I don't want a dually, but should I be considering a 3500 SRW.
7) Is the anti spin differential effective when going uphill on gravel roads ?

Thanks.

 

4. If it's a 2005, that's probably reasonable. If it's a 2004, they need to come down at least a couple thousand more to be competitive with some other places.
6. Yep-a SRW 3500 is probably worth getting. I would have gotten one if the dealership I was at had one. They're barely any more expensive than a 2500.
7. Yes-I wouldn't buy one of these trucks without it. It helps in almost any situation where traction is a concern.

 

1) Hook that trailer up ASAP and tow with it. Your cummins will thank you.

2) Look for around 16 or so empty. I'd go with a 6spd stick to help with that. Your mileage will vary some depending on driving habits. A flash is a computer reprogram. Your truck should already have the most current TSB flashes. If not, have your dealer install them. You can do a search on here for the most current ones.

3) Spray in

4) Doesn't sound that bad. My dealership took $6500 off without any negotiating.

5) No clue. I'd look in the tow/haul section of the forum for that

6) The 2500 will tow your load just fine. The only difference between the two is one has dual rear wheels and slightly bigger brakes in the rear.

7) Get the anti spin diff. You'll thank us later. You might never need it but once and you'll be glad you had it. These trucks are heavy and it takes a lot to get them moving and keep them moving.

 

1) According to the manual, you aren't supposed to tow for the first 500 miles of driving, and then for the first 500 miles of towing you're supposed to stay under 50 mph. I followed the first rule, but not the 2nd. You need to tow to break in the engine properly, but you also don't want to beat on it right off the lot.

2) The 3.73 is good, you'll want the 6-speed. To really maximize mileage, get a 4x2 instead of a 4x4. The 4x2 is a few inches lower (helps areodynamics) and you don't have to move the extra weight or deal with the extra friction of the 4x4. Of course, if you need 4x4 where you live, that's another issue. I didn't, so I got a 4x2. Other thing is that I believe on the 4x4 the front diff is an open diff no matter what, so you can really only ever have a 4x3. I'll just throw a spare engine in the bed when it starts snowing.

3) I bought the factory Mopar shell. I like it, I'm very happy with it.

4) $6100 off sounds decent. Find out what their invoice is and see how it compares. The dealer I dealt with was more than happy to tell me.

5) In terms of electronic brake controllers, get a Tekonsha Prodigy. Best out there. For 5th-wheel hitches, no clue I don't deal with those. I just tow normal trailers.

6) The 2500 will tow your load without any problems. The engine, transmission, and rear end are just as tough. I didn't know that Dodge was making the 3500 in a SRW now. I'm pretty sure before you could only get them in DRW. At any rate, if you don't want the dually I don't think there'd be much of a difference either way.

7) Yes, buy the anti-spin diff. My old truck had an open diff (also a 4x2) and I hated it. It will be effective uphill on gravel roads, etc.

 

Thanks for the responses. I am liking everything that I'm hearing except for the 16 mpg empty. That doesn't sound too good when your other vehicle is a Toyota Prius. I wonder if there is any type of diesel/electric hybrid truck on the horizon ?

 

Don't hold your breath for one. Furthermore, hybirds are terribly inefficient when it comes to total pollutants emitted. The amount of pollution emitted in the production of a hybrid Civic / Prius / whatever is more than most cars produce in their entire life. Nice, right?

Anyways, on the highway going 70 I'm only getting 17.5 at the moment (17.1 around town) empty, but I will say my mileage has been steadily increasing as time goes on.

 

ive been getting 21-22 mpg on highway lately, very happy with it, course mines an 03 SO engine. just to chime in on the gooseneck part, i think one of the best setups is the B&W turnover hitch http://www.turnoverball.com/ click on turnover ball hitch. also get the spray in liner, i really like my line-x compared to the rhino. ive dealt with a lot of truck with the rhino and i think the line-x holds up A LOT better... also consider getting the spray in done first before the gooseneck. if you want to cover your bed you are better off with a tonneau cover so you can fold it back to hook up the trailer. a shell would be a pain to keep taking it off when you wanna hook up... JMO... and by looking at the weight that your describing, 15k-20k lbs., i might consider the dually for the extra set of wheels and brakes... this is just my .02

 

oh and another thing, i like the prodigy brake controler or the brakesmart brake controler, you can do some research on these two and decide...

 

HH-Thanks for the tips. I did not think about the dually having more braking capacity than SRW. My brakes were a chronic problem on my 92 CTD 250. I felt like I was playin Russian Roulette when pulling the gooseneck down the mountain, and I really don't need that kind of stress anymore but I will miss the mpg.

 

no problem, any other questions just ask...
happy hauling
Eric

 

HH-Thanks for the tips. I did not think about the dually having more braking capacity than SRW. My brakes were a chronic problem on my 92 CTD 250. I felt like I was playin Russian Roulette when pulling the gooseneck down the mountain, and I really don't need that kind of stress anymore but I will miss the mpg.

 

If your loaded trailer will be 15-20k I suspect you will be overloading a 3/4 ton truck. On a 5er or gooseneck connection app.20% of that weight goes on the truck bed. I would assume the max weight of 20k and add 4,000 pounds to whatever I planned to carry in the truck. I believe 20,000 pounds will overload even the dually.
In my 03 I am getting 20-23 mpg running to and from work app. 25% city/75% highway. Speed is one of the biggest factors in mpg.

 

you will be past the limit for a 3/4 ton truck, but a dually i dont think will have any problem, i say its all based on how you load the trailer, you keep the load centered over the trailers axles and you be suprised how it frees up the weight in the bed...

 

Basic physics goes for any trailer. Center the weight over the wheels and the trailer takes the load. You really only want a couple hundred pounds on the truck anyway.

 

Well, I pulled the trigger,the 05 is in the driveway. I held out on buying a second generation, so this is quite a difference from driving my 92 which has definitely seen better days. I think I might actually look forward to hitting the road this year instead of dreading the annual big breakdown.
Turnover ball will go in on Wednesday.
What's the word on stepsides ?