Truck won't turn over with the key
Truck won't turn over with the key
Three weeks ago I replaced the batteries in my truck. I think it is coincidental that now my truck will not crank with the key. But maybe it's not. I have a remote start on the truck and it will start using the remote. This tells me that the solenoid and starter are obviously ok. All the accessories in the cab work, lights radio and such, in both the "acc" and "on" positions. Leading me to believe the crank portion of the switch is at fault. This has just developed in the last week. It did crank just fine for about 15 days or so after the batteries were swapped.
Am I overlooking something or has the switch gone bad? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Am I overlooking something or has the switch gone bad? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Make sure that the shift indicator is indicating P or N, mine's a little sloppy and sometimes it won't crank. You may have an issue with the neutral safety switch. You can try holding the key in the crank position and wiggling the gearshift. I prefer doing this in the N position, jusk keep your foot on the service brake.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
Make sure that the shift indicator is indicating P or N, mine's a little sloppy and sometimes it won't crank. You may have an issue with the neutral safety switch. You can try holding the key in the crank position and wiggling the gearshift. I prefer doing this in the N position, jusk keep your foot on the service brake.
more than likely its the ignition switch dropping voltage
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
having MIL lights with the push button is because the ignition switch on the hot side activates many circuits. i would venture to stay ignition switch is bad causing a drop of power
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, but it makes sense. I'm in the ignition switch boat!
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
have seen in before where the ign switch dropps voltage and won't start the truck but we can manually start it by jumping the solenoid wires under the hood to get it into the shop
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Here is the wiring diag may be of some help to you.
Relay-starter motor (except srt) - 5 way cav circuit function
1 t40 14yl/tn starter solenoid feed
2 t753 18dg/yl ignition switch output (start)
3 - -
4 t750 14yl/gy starter motor control output
5 t41 18yl/db (diesel a/t) trs t41 sense
5 t41 18yl/db (diesel m/t) park/neutral position switch sense
5 t752 18dg/or (gas) starter motor relay control
Relay-starter motor (except srt) - 5 way cav circuit function
1 t40 14yl/tn starter solenoid feed
2 t753 18dg/yl ignition switch output (start)
3 - -
4 t750 14yl/gy starter motor control output
5 t41 18yl/db (diesel a/t) trs t41 sense
5 t41 18yl/db (diesel m/t) park/neutral position switch sense
5 t752 18dg/or (gas) starter motor relay control
Fixed?
Three weeks ago I replaced the batteries in my truck. I think it is coincidental that now my truck will not crank with the key. But maybe it's not. I have a remote start on the truck and it will start using the remote. This tells me that the solenoid and starter are obviously ok. All the accessories in the cab work, lights radio and such, in both the "acc" and "on" positions. Leading me to believe the crank portion of the switch is at fault. This has just developed in the last week. It did crank just fine for about 15 days or so after the batteries were swapped.
Am I overlooking something or has the switch gone bad? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Am I overlooking something or has the switch gone bad? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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