Anyone know how much movement is acceptable or within factory limits for a trackbar on a 3rd gen 4X4 Ram ? I got underneath my truck today while my son moved the steering wheel back and forth. I see the track bar move about 1/16" of play (side to side-inline with the axle) Is this normal? I still have a wander issue and I'd like to solve this once and for all. Ball joints were replace about 10K miles ago and I upgraded to the 2008 set up including a steering box sector shaft brace.
I see Lazersmith has a replacement bushing kit for our 3rd gens but with 1/16 to maybe 3/32" of bushing deflection I'm wondering if this is even needed.
Oh yeah and I've already replaced the steering box with a RedHead unit when I did the ball joints and steering brace.

Another thing I've notice over time is the steering wheel does not return to center when turning sharp in a packing lot. Could my ball joints be shot already ? I could use some help on this before I go and dump more money on chasing this wandering issue.

One final question. How much play should you see the steering input shaft (the shaft that goes from the steering to the steering gear box). With the truck not running I could twist the shaft easily a good 10 degrees back and forth. Is this normal ??
Thank you
03CTDCO

 

Bump !
Come on front end experts

 

a 1/16" is nothing to worry about and is not giving your wandering feeling...

I have seen some dodge front ends that have worn ovals into their trackbar mounts and that bolt would move 1/4" at each end!

 

As far as the wandering and the non-returnability issue with the steering, I would consider the new ball joints. If the replacements were Moog joints, this is a very common complaint. You may want to dig out the receipt and see what brand were used.

 

Agreed,
The 4 main reasons that a truck would not have a strong return to center function would be:

Steering box- Red Head seams to always solve this
Bent steering stabilizer
Not enough caster in the alignment- 3.5-4.5 degrees is preferred
Sticky ball joints- Moogs have been notorious for this over the last few years.

 

Thanks for the replies. I dug out my paperwork on the ball joints. Installed 6/2009 Spicer uppers. Moog lowers. At that same time I had the redhead and steering brace installed.

Had the alignment done after installing the 2008 steering parts (5/2010) Caster readings DS 5.1deg/PS 5.0deg according to print out. Specified caster range was listed at 4.0 - 5.3.

 

OK now you guys have me thinking. The caster was never adjusted according the alignment print-out. I dont think the caster has ever been adjusted since the truck was built (I'm the original owner). This is my 3rd set of ball joints (original, mopar replaced at 25k miles, then the spicer/moog 6/2009) The truck only has 63K miles on it. I’m thinking the 5 degrees caster has put too much lateral load on the ball joints plus the moogs are junk I’ve been reading. Maybe its time for Dynatrac ball joints and less positive caster. Say 3.5 to 4.0 degrees vs. 5 deg I have today.
The Redhead steering gear is also my 3rd. (original, mopar replaced at 45k miles, RedHead on 6/2009)

I’m no expert on this stuff so let me know what you think.

 

I'm not convinced you needed all those ball joints. Some technicians seem to condemn ball joints if they see any play at all, even though most vehicles have a spec for allowable play, and many come from the factory with some play in them. I should add that a big part of the Moog problem is that there is no play incorporated into these joints. Whether motivated by malice, greed, or simply ignorance, many technicians are replacing ball joints when they are well within spec and not causing any symptoms. My advice is whenever a shop tells you that you need ball joints, always ask what the spec is for axial and radial play, and what was measured.

As far as your caster, unfortunately I can't remember the spec for third gen trucks, but I know 5 degrees would be past the acceptable range on a second gen truck. If the 5 degrees was what the truck came with from the factory, I would be inclined to leave it. Keep in mind that when you adjust the caster, you are also changing the pinion angle on the front differential.

If it was me, I'd put in a new set of joints, Dynatrac if you really want to spend the $$, or XRF if you just want decent jobber parts, and try it from there.
Just my opinion.

 

More caster will cause the steering to return to center and wander less. Not enough caster can even cause the DW. Jeeps with basically the same front end suspension, just smaller, battle the caster issue after a lift. With 5 deg caster I say you are in ball joint issue.

 

I checked for side to side movement yesterday but was unable to get the tire to move or rock. Not sure how to check up and down play in the ball joints. I don't have a long breaker bar. Is there another trick I can try without special tools ? Anyone know what the acceptable range is for vertical play in the ball joints ?

Thanks

 

Jack the tire off the ground and try to lift it up and down with pipe, 2x4's or something. Have someone watch the ball joint. 1/8 inch or so up and down is OK.

 

I, like 03CTDCO, have been throwing parts at this problem. I bought some new ball joints to replace the Moogs. I am hoping that this will solve the problem. Also bought a new steering stabilizer and 4 new shocks (Thanks SKYD RAM) to replace while i'm at it.



I am going to have the caster set to 4.5*. Does anyone know what the TOE should be set at?

 

From the '06 manual - toe in.

0.10° ± 0.05°

MAX RT/LT
DIFFERENCE
4X4
2500&3500 0°±.06°