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Speaker/Door rattle

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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 07:24 PM
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From: Glendale AZ
Speaker/Door rattle

First time starting something, hope I don't step out of line.

Is anyone having problems with interior door rattles from low bass in the front door speakers. I tend to listen to talk radio and any time the tone even starts to get low my door panel rattles.

Dealer replaced both door speakers and told me "It ain't fixed, but it's the best we can do for now. When you come back to get your oil changed remember to ask me if Dodge has come up with a fix"

Anyone else experiencing the same?
Thanks in advance!!!!
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 07:47 PM
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From: Plymouth, MN
If the interior trim panel (plastic) is making the noise, the shop has not replaced the "clips" when the took apart the panel to replace your speakers. The plastic clips are only good for one or two removals before they're shot.

If the rattle is the door shell (metal) itself the factory should be able to put some sound deadener (like dynomat) It sticks to the metal itself and should eliminate the rattle.
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 07:55 PM
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It sounds like the plastic, but I noticed it right away only got 2K miles. Tried pushing the panel to the door in an attempt to fix that very thing, No luck...
Maybe I'll loosen some screws and check for bad clips...
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:17 PM
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From: Elkridge, MD
Originally posted by magnum
If the interior trim panel (plastic) is making the noise, the shop has not replaced the "clips" when the took apart the panel to replace your speakers. The plastic clips are only good for one or two removals before they're shot.

If the rattle is the door shell (metal) itself the factory should be able to put some sound deadener (like dynomat) It sticks to the metal itself and should eliminate the rattle.
The doors on the 03+ rigs no longer use the plastic christmas tree style fasteners. The doors have plastic clamps molded into the panel that lock into the door frame and can be removed many times with no damage. My suggestion would be to remove the door panel and make sure that the speaker wires, etc. are not vibrating against the door panel. All that is involved is removing a 10mm bolt on the door handle and removing several phillips head screws. The door panel will lift straight up. Then slowly pull it away and unclip the wiring harnesses. When I had mine off to upgrade the lousy stock speakers, I made sure all the wiring was tidy.
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:24 PM
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From: Elkridge, MD
Door panel removal per shop manual:

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the window crank, if equipped. (Fig.
13)
(2) Remove the interior handle. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/INSIDE HANDLE ACTUATOR
- REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the screws at the mirror flag and near
the inside handle. (Fig. 12)
CAUTION: Trim panel is attached to the door using
hooks molded into the panel. Do not pull the trim
panel straight off or damage to the panel and/or
power switch assembly may occur.
(4) Lift the trim panel up off the belt seal and
attachment hooks and separate the panel from the
door slightly.
(5) Disconnect the power window switch electrical
connector, if equipped, and remove the trim panel.
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:35 PM
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From: Plymouth, MN
My apologies, Thanks for the correction RamDan03.
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:38 PM
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From: Cleveland, OH
I have had the same problem and cured it....and then some....
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:40 PM
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At that point, why stop? rip out the rear seats, carpet, and do the rear floor and wall. Double layers over the muffler area. MMm what is road noise, I forgot!?
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:46 PM
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From: Elkridge, MD
Originally posted by magnum
My apologies, Thanks for the correction RamDan03.
No need to apologize....I was just as shocked when I pulled the door panel myself. I couldn't believe it took them all these years to finally figure it out
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:48 PM
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From: Elkridge, MD
Originally posted by Lightman
At that point, why stop? rip out the rear seats, carpet, and do the rear floor and wall. Double layers over the muffler area. MMm what is road noise, I forgot!?
Wow, you were hard at work. The weather up here has been too messy to do any projects like that.
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:48 PM
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From: Glendale AZ
You guys are awsome, I'll check it out and post results.
THANK YOU!!!!
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Old Jan 29, 2004 | 08:53 PM
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From: Cleveland, OH
Originally posted by RamDan03
Wow, you were hard at work. The weather up here has been too messy to do any projects like that.
Yes sir. Took me about 16-18 hours total, all four doors, rear floor and wall. Once I get up some more motivation, I'm going to rip out the front seats and carpet and do the front floor with a layer of dynamat xtreme and the dynaliner sound absorption foam to go with it. I like my diesel noise plain, with no garnish, such as road noise, wind noise, or tire noise on the side!
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 12:22 AM
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From: Star, Idaho
Originally posted by Lightman
At that point, why stop? rip out the rear seats, carpet, and do the rear floor and wall. Double layers over the muffler area. MMm what is road noise, I forgot!?
I've gotta rip out the front seat to install an amp next week. I think I'll Dynomat the front 1/2 of the truck at that time. I think I'll do the rear and doors as well, but later on...I don't care for any garnish either
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 04:54 AM
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From: Germany
Holy Crap, Batman! Dynamat has got to be the most expensive stuff out there. You did the whole cab?
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:47 AM
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From: Mid Georgia
Yes I had this problem and occassionally still have the bass problem. The passenger speaker was making that noise, so I asked the dealer to check. He sat in the driver's seat , did not look at the site, ordered and replaced the speaker. I get in - same sound. Talk to service manager, he comes out, looks in door well and takes out a paper fan my wife had placed in there - fixed the problem. So, I say, I guess we didn't need a new speaker after all - "no, but we made some money."

I still have it occassionally in the driver's side, but can live with it for now.

Billy
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