NOT trying to start a war¿

I don't think cutting into the factory wiring or installing a non factory switch is such a bad thing unless you tend to leave your truck 100% bone stock its entire life.

Here's my switches, pretty pukey alright eh?
(Top one for the back ups, bottom for my KC's)
I can just buy a new knock out if I ever want to get rid of the switches)



I cut into the factory wire at the fuse box to pick up the factory back up circuit, ran it to a switch along with the switched hot lead from my cigar lighter which I also used for my gauges etc, Yes I cut into the factory wiring (oh my, how dreadful I know), from the switch I ran a wire to my realy at the back of the truck in my canopy. I ran a heavy wire from the relay to my battery under the hood through a seperate in line fuse.


I know if I mounted the lights where PT did it would only be a matter of time till I backed into something andbroke them, and his lights aren't cheap.

 

Adam,

You and I are on the same page. I don't care for a separate switch, so the factory 7 pin harness wire works great for me.

 

No I really didn't want to start a war. I didn't call anyone any names, nor did I say anyone's set up was garbage, just that cutting into a factory harness makes me wanna puke!

I was merely stating an opinion and in the process I opted to compliment PTGarcia on his light install.

Actually, I don't care for the switches like that. If it were me, they would match. I don't like trucks that have the same appearance as the electrical accessory isle at the auto parts store.

You have your switches where the adjustable pedal switch is located on my truck and I knock my knee into that thing on occasion. I am sure I will have to replace the switch sooner or later.

I do not like cutting into a factory harness, and I surely don't like adding extra circuits to a vehicle. Some things you just can't avoid (like guages and air bag controllers and brake controllers) but otherwise I get sick over having to cut into or drill into my truck. I also don't care for things that don't look factory which is why I hid my air bag controller in my lower storage compartment. If I were in the market for a used truck, I would purchase the one that isn't altered, and I'd venture to guess that a good many of those here would do the same.

If I had a need to be able to switch the lights off while backing, then I would be "stuck" installing a switch somewhere (most likely in the lower storage compartment) and dealing with it.

I am with you on this. I mounted mine as close as possible to the receiver to maximize my clearance. I'll hit my receiver before I knock of one of the lights. In the case that I do destroy a light, they are pretty cheap at $15/pair so no worries.

 

Sorry, complimenting someone on the job they did then turning around and saying doing it that way makes you wanna puke just seems a little strange...

 

Not to be rude but since you asked, but I do find the mismatched pair of switches pretty pukey, I'm glad you had the forethought to mount them in the replacable knockout. They aren't a big deal, but I wouldn't have done it that way. I just had my alarm installed and I had them put the LED in that knockout.

I was contemplating on where to put some accessory switches. I was thinking an ABS plate where the electric 4wd shifter hole is with three black rockers in it might look as good as it gets, my truck has manual 4wd shift. I'm planning on 1-2 sets of lights up front at some point in the future if/when I build a roadarmor style bumper. I'm still looking for a good place to mount the boost and trans temp gauges. I have an SRT pillar for the EGT gauge.

 

My switches are in the factory blank also.

I have tons of electrical crap on my truck. I have 4 off road lamps on a light bar up front, a race radio in the cab, as well as the typical Sirius, gauges, exhaust brake, etc. Nothing taps into a factory harness. All are on fused circuits with relays and anything that draws more than an amp or so is ground directly to the batteries. All the wires are wrapped and hidden well and what isn't could pass as factory. No shortcuts have been taken when it comes to wiring on my truck. Electrical gremlins are a bear to chase down so I make sure I leave no opening for them to appear.

What guage is the factory backup wiring, 16 awg? Or is it only 18 awg? Don't think I'd want to add 55w per light to an already barely adequate setup.

 

PT never uploaded a photo of the switches in this thread, nor are the lights in the photo connected. I was complimenting the light brackets and install. It would be weird for me to compliment something he didn't post now wouldn't it?

As for the "barely adequate" wiring, it has performed flawlessly for me. The wire is 14 gage according to the service manual which is more than suitable for this application.

A new guy gives a new perspective around here and you all jump down his throat. Good greif.

 

First the compliment:
"That looks like a nice install,"

Then the pukey face:
"you are adding a lot of wires to your factory set up, as well as a non-factory switch and 15 feet of wire."

 

If each leg is 14 awg you'll be fine. Anything smaller and I wouldn't do it.

Not trying to dump on your perspective. Some of these trucks have had issues with light wiring, especially the trailer wiring. Because of this I feel adding more load to existing circuits just isn't a good idea.

But one thing I don't get is you say you don't like tapping into the factory harness, but isn't that what you're doing? Or am I misunderstanding something?

 

ptgarcia,

Nice looking lights! Also, thanks for the link to the defiant brackets I haven't seen those yet.

One question I have is you mentioned your lights are not tied into your factory light reverse lights at all. Do you really need a relay then? I've had backup lights on all my trucks and run the wires directly to the battery and and to the switch I mount in the cab? I believe I understand the need for a relay when tying into the factory wiring. I'm not ******* your setup at all, I'm just trying to understand the purpose of the relay as I don't know much about them. Maybe I should be using a relay???

 

Without a relay the switch has to pass the full draw of the lights, in my case 15 amps or so. With a relay it passes about 0.1 amp, just enough juice to arm the relay and light the switch. The relay then passes all the current. Typically switches are only reliable with low current, unless you spend the money on good switches. This also keeps the high energy wires out of the cab.

Another way to do it is with breakers. If you're an off road racer that's the route I'd go. Relays fail more often in severe conditions. Not good when going 100 mph through the desert at night!

 

Your reading comprehension needs some help. Those two statements come from two different paragraphs. The first paragraph contains a compliment and a follow-up question. The second paragraph details the things needed to run off a relay. This "extra" undocumented circuitry is what I don't care for.

I fail to see what is so "strange" in my statements.

 

Can we get back on topic now?

 

See post #18, included is a wiring diagram.

 

I like the idea of using both reverse or the cargo light switch to activate the lights. When I add a shell my factory cargo light will be useless anyway.