It has nothing to do with the springs, you have not changed them. But you are 1-1/2" closer to the axle.

 

Moterhead is right. I measured the height at the front license plate before and after removing the rear spring spacers. I don't remember now, but I think it went up about 3/8" and the tailgate went down about 2-1/2". I have 140.5" wheelbase. It would be a little different for the LWB.

 

I recently installed the 2" spacer leveling kit. It seems to me by looking at the truck the front is actually highter than the rear now. Do you guys know if adding a spacer to the rear is possible. If so any body want to sell me a set.

Jamie

 

Sorry guys but everybodys right. Maybe my term was wrong, front end to me meant the front bumper. Which HAS to come up to effect a change in the headlights. It also changes the tolorances between the front fender lip and the tire which is what I was trying to figger out ! RickE your 3/8" is about what I come up with guessing at wheelbase and front overhang THANX

 

I would like to do this to my 2WD '03 QC truck. Is there a link to the process? Might save me some time. Thanks, Jim

 

Don't know about a link, but if you do a search you will find some guys have described it in great detail.

 

I have been following this thread hoping for a little more information on the removal of the blocks. I used the search last night and could not find the detailed post telling how it was done. I tried again tonight with no better results.

Is there any spring clamping involved? I am guessing two c-clamps and a few minutes changing them out will swap them. Jim

 

I will buy one spacer per side from somebody willing to get rid of theirs. If not anyone know If I can order them from DC. I would like to raise my rear just a little. seems to me the 2" leveling kit left my front end higher than the rear. Just noticible.

thanks Jamie

 

Ken Lenger, who posts over on the TDR, has the procedure detailed on his website. Here is the link

http://www.klenger.net/dodge/lowerin...d/slide01.html

Please note that even though the title on Ken's slide show says "4WD", the procedure works fine on 2WD. I did mine.

The only thing I would add to Ken's comments and pictures is to buy four new spring center bolts before you start the job. The factory bolts have round heads. If they spin, you must resort to vice grips to hold 'em. One of mine, naturally the last one, was a bear! Vice grips wouldn't hold it. Had to use a pipe wrench. That one stubborn bolt probably added 50% to the job time for me.

 

I read the "how-to" the question I have is what size bolts do I need. I saw where they are 3 1/2 long in another post but what diameter?

 

I just moved the spacers from the bottom of the spring pack to the top, and re-used the same bolts. all the original parts are still there if I ever want to change it back.

 

"If you do this, do yourself a big favor, and get new bolts hold the spring pack & spacers together. the factory hardware is junk [no hex head on the bolt] 1/2"NC x 4.5" is what i used if i remember right, with some nyloc nuts on them"...nick leinonen

This was posted earlier in the thread


Thanks for the further assistance guys, Jim

 

I thought I read it somewhere but thought it was in one of the posts I read when I did the search and could not remember which one.

 

This was posted by Wetspirit on 1-3-04.

I took out the two lowering blocks on my truck and am glad I did. The truck is almost level and looks a bit better. It's not to hard to do.
Also, if you wanted another bit you could remove the overload leaf under the spring pack (on the 2500's), this is almost an inch thick, but it would reduce your load capacity.
All you have to do is pull a rear wheel while supporting that side of the truck with a jackstand under the spring pack behind the axle. Support the center of the axle (in the middle of the truck) with a floor jack. Put a "C" clamp on the spring pack in front of the axle. Remove the U bolts. Lower the axle with the floor jack about 4 inches. Remove the spring center bolts one at a time and replace with 3 1/2" grade 8 bolts and nuts (loosen both bolts, swing the lifting blocks asside and install the first bolt with Locktight Blue, also grip the round bolt head with a vice grip to remove the nut). Move the plastic centering pin to the overload leaf and jack the axle back up with the floor jack. Use a deep socket to re-install the U bolts. Re-install the wheel and go to the other side.
The new bolts are hex and the existing are small round head, so I was aware of the flat orientation as I tightened them to allow maximum clearance in the axle saddle.
It's quite easy and you could always go back if you wanted.

Wetspirit

 

Maccandy,

Thanks for posting my procedure on removing the spacers. This the easiest and best way I can think of to do this. I've put on about 40,000 miles since this mod and I love it.

Wetspirit