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Quick Recirculation door Question

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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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Quick Recirculation door Question

I just recently had my recirculation door break on my 06 and have read the thread on here from ratlratl (printed it out with the pics on how to replace) great job!!! My only question is what is the correct part number for the part, I have seen it listed as both 68004226AB and 68004226AA. The only difference in the 2 is one is the AB at the end and the other is the AA. I talked to my local dealer and he said he has the 68004226AA in stock and that that is the new improved one. He also said that the 68004226AB does not exist in his parts listing. I want to make sure to get the new one and he is not blowing smoke.

FR
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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AB is the correct new part. AA was the original "improved" door package. All the AB does is show that there was a material or vendor change. This is to track any failures or future problems to a certain plant or time.

Chris
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Could either one of you guys post the link to the thread?

I'd appreciate it!
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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So does this mean that since the AA is the improved one that I can get this one(hence they made a improved version then changed the number to the AB) or do I need to go to a different dealer and find the AB. Sorry for so many questions, I just only want to pull the dash on this thing 1 time.

Thanks Again,

Mitch
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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Thumbs up Ask all you need to

I can't get the AA anymore but it should be fine. Like I said earlier, it is probably a vendor change that warrants the part # to go to AB. No functional difference. Only to ease your mind would I go to another dealer and of course if it is convenient to do so.

Thread link HERE Have fun!


Chris
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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So was the part improved then the part number updated later, beings you say the AA was "improved". Is it ok to get the AA part are do I need to find another dealer with the AB part? Was there a change between the original part and the AA part or are they one in the same? Then another change from the AA to the AB. Sorry for so many questions, but I only want to have to pull the dash to make the change once. Thanks again for all of the help.

Mitch

Please ignore this one, for some reason my earlier post did not show up on my BB until after I posted this one, traveling is a pain.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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Thumbs up Hope this helps

The original change to the 68004226 AA was from just a door to a housing assembly. The assembly consisted of a new housing, that incorporated stops to limit the range of the door's movement, the actuator and door as one item for $17 instead of around $70 individually. This was produced IMO to prevent a recall or major warranty expense to Chrysler as these assemblies solved the problem of the doors breaking. The later change to an AB # could have been something simple like a different color door or a different foam that lines the door. I don't believe you will find a noticeable difference between the two if sat side by side. In summary the 68004226 AA was the solution. The AB is not made to be an improvement over the AA. Just a manufacturing change of some sort.


Chris
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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Was the improved part put into regular production? Does a 2007.5 have the new improved version? (I hope).
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Yes it was definately on May 06 build dates and later.....

Chris
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Chris,

Sorry for all of the questions, but thanks for all of your help, I would have been lost on this one without it. I am going to head to the dealer and pick up my new assembly and hope to get it installed in the next couple of weeks. I have your full how to with pics printed and ready.

Mitch
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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ok, i think i may also need this part along with a new heater core. what are the symptoms of this parts failure? my symptoms are little to no control over where the air comes out of the vents (ie. feet, dash, body), with the air completely off and i roll down the front windows i get a strong current from the air vents. if i roll the windows up it mainly goes away but not completely. i dont hear any noises like described as if the blend door is broken and fallen down into the blower. with the heater core hooked up i cant stop the flow of hot air out of the vents either, with it unhooked its just a muggy/damp kind of air till you turn on the a/c. once the a/c is turned on with the heater core bypassed the air is kind of foggy then clears up, the a/c is very cold. what does this sound like to you ratlratl? i would like to order the parts tonight so i cant get them here asap. thanks for your help.
james
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:47 PM
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ok, i think i may also need this part along with a new heater core. what are the symptoms of this parts failure? my symptoms are little to no control over where the air comes out of the vents (ie. feet, dash, body), with the air completely off and i roll down the front windows i get a strong current from the air vents. if i roll the windows up it mainly goes away but not completely. i dont hear any noises like described as if the blend door is broken and fallen down into the blower. with the heater core hooked up i cant stop the flow of hot air out of the vents either, with it unhooked its just a muggy/damp kind of air till you turn on the a/c. once the a/c is turned on with the heater core bypassed the air is kind of foggy then clears up, the a/c is very cold. what does this sound like to you ratlratl? i would like to order the parts tonight so i cant get them here asap. thanks for your help.
james
If you are talking about the truck you have listed in your sig you probably have a vacuum hose problem. The broken recirculation door problem is on the newer trucks.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:46 AM
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maybe i should update my sig, i have a 2003 quad cab also...
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 02:01 PM
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Are you getting any coolant in the cab (under the carpet)? Do you smell coolant? Normally a failed heater core will give you a noticeable smell and a film on the windshield if using defrost. With the problem of no control of flow or direction of outlets it's a small chance it could be your control panel itself. On '06 and later you can remove the IOD fuse and it will let the actuators relearn their range. It's worth trying but I'm not sure it will do anything on your '03. If it is a leaky heater core, there is also the possibility of coolant throughout the ducts and doors causing them to stick. Sounds like the box assembly is coming out anyway.


Chris
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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i just ran 2 drywall screws thru mine to keep it in the closed position to keep the dust and cold air out,but i'm lazy
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