I have a 95 ext cab I love the truck but the kids are getting bigger and a crew cab would be more comfortable for them.

I'm looking at a 2004 1 ton with 161 k on it. The truck is really clean and does not looked abused. I don't know much about the 3rd gens. I have heard about the fuel pumps but don't know of any other issues.

What other issues are there and what do I need to look for?

I love my 95 and will not be getting rid of it but reality is setting in so I'm doing a little looking and a lot of thinking.

 

Is it an 04 or 04.5?

On either of them the biggest issue, like you said, is the fuel pump. If its already been transferred to the tank then you are good to go.

If the truck is in good shape then they should be good, they are pretty solid.

You can compare hours to miles to see what the average speed was... Turn the key to on (don't start), then with the ODO showing hold the reset button for 6 seconds, hours will pop up.

32-35 is average
<30 is a lot of idling or slow speed use.
>40 is a lot of hwy time.

 

Thanks for the info. I looked at the sticker in the door and it said it was made in 6 of 03? Also I looked for the lift pump around the filter and did not see one, so I assume it is in the tank.

With it being electronic do I need gauges or does the programer like Bully Dog or the other ones have the temps on them.

 

Sound like it's an early 04. If you look at the valve cover for the HP rating you can tell that way as well.

There are some electric gauge options, but none of them seem to be as accurate as good ol analog gauges. But its all user preference.

 

There is a grab handel on the door piller so how do the gauges mount?

 

You can get dual and triple guage mounts that delete the handle, and a OEM single that keeps the handle.

 

It is an early 04. Anything built after Jan 1 04 is the 04.5.

The early 04's have better fuel mileage, but have less power and don't respond to power adders as well as the 04.5 and up. They came stock with a canister mounted lift pump, which I doubt it still has. Easy way to check, turn the key on and listen to where the FP hum comes from.

There are a lot of different ways to mount gauges.

Let us know what other questions you have.

 

My dad has an o4 that is stock and he gets really good fuel mileage and has never lacked for power. If I do, do this I'm thinking of leaving the truck stock, family truck and my 95 will be the toy I pump up.

 

I just did the same thing for the same reason, a growing family. Miss the bottom end power of my 95, but these 3rd gens are sure nice to drive. You might also check the ball joints, carrier bearing, and front axle u-joints as they are also prone to failure. This is the gauge setup I used.

 

I know what you mean, I sat in the 3rd gen and it was really comfortable. Just got back from a 400 mil trip and the kids and wife were not very comfortable in the 95.

 

Well I drove it to day, I was a little supprised very snappy good power. Ride is a little ruff being a 1 ton with over load springs but I don't buy a truck to ride like a car. Very confrotable to sit in.

There was one thing when I turned out of the parking lot I felt a wobble in the steering wheel. drove it on the highway and it drove fine didn't wounder felt good. I took it to a big parking lot and turned tight corners with it and it was fine no wobble. I told the salesman about it and they will check it out and fix what ever is wrong.


So more thinking to do

 

On the 3rd gens you won't notice a difference in ride on the 2500 and 3500 SRW. The main leafs are the same, and the overloads take at least 2K in the bed to contact.

 

I would suspect the front u-joints are rusted up. Have the truck put on a lift and look at the following... wheel bearings (grab tire top and bottom and try to tilt the tire in and out with hands), ball joints (place a pry bar under the tire and lift up and see how much play is in them) some is ok but more then .100" is too much but you don't have to tell the dealer that any is acceptable , u-joints (turn the steering all the way and rotate tires by hand to see if they are smooth and there is no clunking).

After you scare the heck out of the salesman by showing all the play in the front end (your gonna get some) then low ball him an offer or have him get an estimate on replacing the hubs, ball joints and u-joints (probably cost them about $2500.00)...

Keeping it stock??? As soon as you plug in a smarty, or a simple pressure box (with an easy turn of the **** +100hp) your gonna be in that ackward position of sneaking the hood open when the wifes not looking... and trying to cover up new purchases...

 

Well I'm going to pull the tigger. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks for the info. Ya I'll probably do mods just telling my self I'll leave it stock.