As most of you know that have the Infinity audio system, the amplifier only sends low signals to the front door 6x9 speakers. On the other hand, the amplifier sends mid and high signals to the rear door speakers.

I just replaced my front 6x9 door speakers with some Infinity Kappa speakers but am very disappointed in the results. I would like to have the mids and highs in my front door speakers just like the rear door speakers. Would I be at a chance of overloading the infinity amplifier if I tapped into my rear door speaker wires and also send that signal to the front 6x9 speakers? If so, should I just change the fronts to rears and vice versa? Then I would have the mids and highs in the Infinity Kappa door speakers and lows in the rear door speakers. Or should I just eliminate the rear door speakers from the system and only send mids and highs up front?

I guess I should say that I have 2 10" subs under the rear seat so I have plenty of bass that I could give up. I'm not so sure how much I am actually hearing the rear door speakers anyways. The front door speakers are really trying to thump but simply can't with the factory stuff pushing it.

Finally, is there any adjustment on the stock Infinity amplifier? Where is it located?

Before you audiophiles start telling me to replace the deck, add aftermarket amplifiers, etc. please know that is not in the budget. I'm just attempting to work with and improve what I have now.

Any advice and/ or suggestions will be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

 

Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do other than adding an aftermarket amp and bypassing the Infinity amp. I bought the same speakers for the doors as you and had the same results. I ended up putting the stock speakers back in for now, and like you I also have a 2x10" sub box under the rear seat (MTX).

As to the sub - do not take the signal from the rear door speakers for the sub - the deep bass (heck, all the bass) is removed from this signal to prevent us users from blowing up the speakers. Get your signal from the front door speakers which are the system's "woofers". Even then, the very deep bass is filtered out, more so as you turn up the volume. All of this is done in the Infinity amp. My temporary solution is to turn the bass on the head unit down somewhat and make up for it with the sub. That way the factory amp isn't very pressed to produce bass and I find I can crank it up louder without distortion.

My plan is to bypass the factory amp, install a decent aftermarket amp, and keep the factory head unit. At that point I'll install my Kappa's in the doors.

 

How do you plan on installing an amp while retaining the factory head unit? How will you send the audio signals from the head unit to the amp? There aren't any RCA locations on the back of the head unit so you would have to use a PAC converter, just as we are doing to send the lows to the 10" subs, correct? If you tie into the wires before the factory infinity amp, I presume it doesn't split everything into lows for these speakers, mids and highs for these speakers, and highs for these speakers...

During the initial installation of my 10's and the amp, I tried tapping into the speaker wires coming out of the head unit. After doing this, I learned that my subs did not respond to the volume control on the head unit. Instead, they were always the same level of loudness. Therefore, I resorted to the passenger side kick panel. If my first assumption is correct and you will be tapping into the wires here, will you not have the same problem (after installing an aftermarket amp)?

Sorry, I'm just trying to wrap my head around the idea of using an aftermarket amplifier to power the door speakers and tweeters while retaining the factory head unit.

 

My sub is self powered (it has a built in amp) and also has its own low pass filter, so I can send it a full range signal and it strips off everything but bass. It has both speaker level and RCA level inputs. The problem with the rear door speakers is that most of the bass in their signal is stripped off in the factory Infinity amp, so I use the front door signals which is all bass, but still with the very deep stuff cut off to protect the factory speakers.

I believe PAC (or another suplier) makes an adapter that bypasses the factory amp, directing straight signal from the head unit to the speakers. That means I should be able to route the speaker level output of the head unit to another device, such as an EQ or crossover, that has speaker level inputs and that has RCA outputs for an amp. I haven't done any research yet, but lots of amps used to have both speaker level and RCA level inputs, which would eliminate the need for the EQ/Crossover although I'd still probably use a crossover and send an RCA signal to the sub. Hopefully I can find an amp with 30-50 watts per channel x4 that's small enough to mount under the dash somewhere, if not it'll go under one of the front seats.

The main thing to me is to ditch the factory Infinity amp since that's where all the bass limiting occurs (deep bass especially). That would also allow a full range signal to go to all 4 door speakers, which would be good since you're replacing them.

I'm not into the sound-off thing and I don't want to lose my hearing so it doesn't need thousands of watts of power. As long as it cranks enough to suit me, and does so with excellent fidelity, that's all I need. Heck it's almost loud enough now, but not quite....


If all else fails, I'll just replace the head unit too, although that's a last resort.

 

I would replace the HU before buying an amp to power your speakers. The internal amp in the HU will be a lot better then the infinity and make it easier to hook up your subs. The sooner you rip out that infinity amp the better!

I have just went threw all of this and said F the factory wiring. Ran all new speaker wire and tore out the factory amp, a lot of work, but much happier. Just need to hook up my 2 10's under the rear seat and new amp and i'll be set after way to much work