I have a 2007 swb 3/4 ton 4x4 with a two inch leveling kit and most of the time when I turn my steering wheel my front end make a loud popping noice. I had my front end aligned once and it helped for a shor time but not too long. What do yall think is wrong with it and what is the best, most practical solution.

 

http://lazarsmith.com/SSSSS.html


More than likely it's your track bar "popping" on the driver side mount. It can wallow out the hole and start popping like that. Mine did. In the link above you can buy the "ultimate Track Bar Hardware" and it will cure it. Lots of guys buy a whole new track bar but that isn't necessary.

You can look at it and verify. Just have somebody get in your truck with it running and turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the joint.

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Does it only pop once? I have had poping noises twice on mine but I dont have a leveling kit. If its rotational, pops while moving continuously, then check your axle joints. I have replaced three now. If it only pops once when you first turn check your tie rod ends. One of mine dried out (Ungreasable) and poped rater loud once right when I first started turning as it was binding. Cant speak for the track bar problem.

 

He's selling factory Dodge track bars with his "offset bushing" and zerks for $100 more than an adjustable Carli or Thuren track bar?

How are those offset things working out? I remember someone had a problem with them, not sure what forum it was.

 

Just been thru lots of learning on my trucks front end. My truck came with a 16mm bolt in the axle end of track bar and a 14mm bolt at frame end. Too bad the mounting holes in frame and frame end of track bar were made to use a 16mm bolt. Thats about .080" slop (thanks dodge).

In the end I used 5/8" fine thread gr. 8 bolts with gr. 8 nylocks. 5/8" bolt is only .004" undersize from 16mm and lots easier to get good quality bolt.

It being my life on the line I did not want to use no name import bolt. Look for bolt with "n" (nucor), or "LE" (Lake Erie). Most places like true value will have bolts made in taiwan. Been lots of lawsuits over counterfeit bolts getting people killed.

Shane

 

Im sure part of the cost built in is the "free shipping" included. But you don't need a whole new track bar. You just need the "Ultimate Track Bar kit"...or at least piecemeal your own if you choose to accomplish the same thing.

Mine is working out great! It has the off-set bushings included to make up for my 2'' leveling kit. Im not aware of any problems with them.

Give Mike at Lazarsmith a call and maybe he can set the record straight, at least from his point of view.

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I wanna do something to recenter the axle and the offset hooties are a lot cheaper option...
How did you put yours in, did you buy his tool or know someone with a press?


His full track bar seems a little overpriced though, Carli/Thuren ships pretty cheap (to the US) and they're tried tested and adjustable.

 

Yeah I think the off-set bushings are the ticket. Mike is local to me and he put mine on as I was a beta tester. I didn't remember him having any special tools for that. This has been about, 3 years ago? Sorry Im not more help. I know it cured my "popping" though. My front end feels good and tight even today.

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Thanks Tex, might be the way to go alright...

 

R&R'ing the track bar bushings just needs an appropriately-sized driver & receiver (like a pair of sockets) and a 4lb hammer... press works fine too, but we use the hammer at the shop 'cause it's faster.

Price a new track bar from the dealer, aftermarket bushings & hardware, stainless steel zerks, shop time, powder coating & shipping and do the math.