Floor Jack - 2-ton enough?
I know these trucks are really heavy - especially the fronts. I currently have a 2-ton floor jack (old (10- 12 years) but good Allied brand) and was wondering if this would be strong enough or should I upgrade to 3-ton - or even a 4-ton floor jack?
The jack is for lifting purposes only as I have several 3-ton jack stands and 2 6-ton jack stands (to use for the fronts) when I am underneith the truck.
If I need to upgrade anyone recommend the Sears brand? #50156
Thanks!
The jack is for lifting purposes only as I have several 3-ton jack stands and 2 6-ton jack stands (to use for the fronts) when I am underneith the truck.
If I need to upgrade anyone recommend the Sears brand? #50156
Thanks!
If you figure the truck weighs in at almost 7000 #s wet. Most of that is up front, you'd be maxed out. If your just using it for lifting, I think you'll know pretty quick weather or not it's going to work. If it doesn't the seals will give out on the cylinder and the truck will lower rather quickly.
I've got an old (10yrs) 50136 3-1/2 ton. No problems with it at all, other than it's low on fluid (Jacked up a Motorhome once). Works great for tire changes anyway. I know it's not the same part number but I thought maybe your question pertained to Craftsman jacks in general. The Sears website is down and I can't tell the difference between the two numbers.
Tom
I've got an old (10yrs) 50136 3-1/2 ton. No problems with it at all, other than it's low on fluid (Jacked up a Motorhome once). Works great for tire changes anyway. I know it's not the same part number but I thought maybe your question pertained to Craftsman jacks in general. The Sears website is down and I can't tell the difference between the two numbers.
Tom
I don't know if a 2 ton would do or not, maybe some mathmatician could chime in here... but if you're in the market for a new one, I recently picked up a 3.5 ton PowerBuilt from Checker... I think it was something like $70. When I was shopping around, besides thinking that my truck would squash a 2 ton, I found that they all had the small cradle. The 3.5 Ton had the long handle, big wheels, and large cradle... it was a no brainer. I compared it to the one at Sears (not sure of model #)... same specs, but the Sears unit was something like $99 if I remember correctly. If you have a Checker, or Shuck's, Kragen or whatever their third name is, check with them... they have had jacks on sale almost every time I've been in there.
I think you'd be cutting it quite close with the 2 ton. I have a 3 1/2 ton with an extra high travel range that I picked up a while back from Advance Auto Parts. It was about $80 bundled with a set of 6 ton jackstands.
Truck is 7000lbs, even if 4000 of that is on the front end, a 4000lb(2 ton) jack should handle the load. I would think that nobody would be trying to jack up the whole front end of one of these trucks balanced on one jack
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I use a 2 1/2 ton with no problems at all. It has a long handle that makes for low effort. Most lifting devices are very well underated compared to their ultimate capacity. I think a good large chassis 2 ton would be fine - but not a rinky dink one with 24" handle. It might be strong enough but I think it would require way too much effort to lift a CTD.
Just my .02
Just my .02
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From: North of the Frost Line....near Priddis Alberta
My 2 ton is fine - for the rear (unloaded). For the front, I use a 3 1/2 ton. I wouldn't feel comfortable to crawl underneath (or even changing a tire) with only a 2-ton lifting the front. I haven't been able to lift "only one wheel"...unless I use the stock bottle jack.
Don't know the size of mine, but it is not big enough. I thought it was 2&1/4. I'll repost Monday. It is all I can do to get it to lift it.
Low front end and short handle add to the problem.
Low front end and short handle add to the problem.
I have a cheap 2 ton jack, and it will lift either end, however I shove a stand under it before I pull a wheel, and also it is stiff to pump under the front end.
I would recommend going bigger, if for no other reason than to have a higher leverage ratio.
I would recommend going bigger, if for no other reason than to have a higher leverage ratio.
Thanks for all the replies. My floor jack is one of those large - long handle 2-ton floor jacks but it is old and I am not sure what the life span of a floor jack is.
It sounds like the best thing to do is upgrade to a larger one.
Looking at the sears catalogue craftsman.com I can either get the 3-ton (with a lot of extras) for $90 #50185 or a 4-ton for $90 (no extras) #50156
Most of the replies are for the 3 1/2-ton
Is the 3-ton be good enough or a 4-ton jack all the way?
It sounds like the best thing to do is upgrade to a larger one.
Looking at the sears catalogue craftsman.com I can either get the 3-ton (with a lot of extras) for $90 #50185 or a 4-ton for $90 (no extras) #50156
Most of the replies are for the 3 1/2-ton
Is the 3-ton be good enough or a 4-ton jack all the way?
I have a 3ton craftsman I use. I also worked for sears. If you keep an eye out they go on sale regularly. You can get a 4ton with jack stands for just over 100$. The only thing I hate is how rough the crastman jacks are. or at least mine is. It dosent let off smothly no matter how carefully you twist the handel it always wants the drop the truck. I always try to use my 60 year old blackhawk 1.5ton whenever I can. Now thats one super smooth jack. If I ever need another jack it will deffintly be a blackhawk no matter the cost. Its something I use to much. I would say your 2 ton would work fine for lifting one wheel at a time. I'd hate to see someone lift the front end from one jacking point and pull out there axel tubes
If you get a seras just get the wide foot print ones. those little ones are worthless. other wise there all the same.
If you get a seras just get the wide foot print ones. those little ones are worthless. other wise there all the same.
Originally posted by Captain
I'd hate to see someone lift the front end from one jacking point and pull out there axel tubes
I'd hate to see someone lift the front end from one jacking point and pull out there axel tubes
I jacked up my 2G from the pumpkin several times, although only long enough to shove a jackstand under each axle near the springs.
I've heard of it happening on just regular cars. And they dont weigh anything. you figure if you use the pumpkin the entire weight of the truck is on the press fitting of the tubes into it and also that weight isnt right there, its all the way at the ends of those tubes giving it even greater force. It may be ok to do it just makes me nervis is all



