i have been lurking on this site for awhile now with plans to buy a ctd in spring 2006. Hopefully the vibe and injctor/knock issues will be worked out by then. In teh meantime I have a question about using a clay bar to help restore the paint finish. Do the clay bars work well? Can i mess up the finish or are these fool proof?

Thanks for your comments.

Ron

 

A few years back I had my new truck oversprayed by a shipyard doing R&R on a drilling rig. South Louisiana, middle of summer, I got red primer as well as safety yellow paint spatter all over my truck's clear coat finish. Made me sick to see my new truck look like that. Overspray was well "cooked" into my truck's paint. I used NAPA brand clay bar and silicone lube to remove all overspray and restore paint finish. Cleaned clear coat, chrome, glass, and smooth plastic finish. I was really impressed and would highly recommend clay bars for cleaning painted finishes. Just follow mfgr's instructions and you'll be fine.

 

A clay bar removed light line-x overspray from my rig. If that is what you mean by restoring, then yes. It will remove tar, sap, some overspray, etc.... It will not 'restore' the paintjob in any other way than that though. (I.E. chalking, swirls, scratches)

 

i have used mothers brand clay bar and i think it works great. if you buy the clay bar kit then it is pretty much fool-proof. it is really good at removing tree sap, bugs, overspray, etc. it works as advertised.

britt

 

Lots of SHOW CAR buffs use clay bar.

 

Kot2,

I used to detail cars the old way, compounds with wool and foam pads. I thought that nothing could remove particles then the buffer. I own a black SD and did not want to use a buffer on it unless I had too, due to the swirl marks left after buffing. I looked at several products and used ZANO's system. It cost more but they send you everything and explain in detail the whole process. I have clayed the truck several times now and I have people ask me how can it be soo shiny without anykind of swirl marks. I will tell you this it is a job to clay the whole truck with a cap on it to boot. I will spend 10 hrs doing it right.

First thing is to use DAWN dish soap to wash the truck and remove any kind of grease or wax. Buy several bars just in case. If you drop it or somehow get mud, metal, sand etc THROW IT AWAY it will scratch the paint.
You have to work in small sections and constantly use soapy water, mold and reshape the clay. if it starts crumbling or flakes like an eraser you need more soapy water. wipe with a clean cloth
when all finished wash the truck again with good car soap. wax it twice and put the clay into a baggy and save for another day.

Have fun

 

I am not a hardcore automobile detailer type of a guy but if you have the time to invest, the results you get with a clay bar are good enough to be able to see a difference.

 

So what works better as a lube for the clay bar, soapy water or silicone lube?

 

SOAPY WATER!!

Remember the clay is to remove impurities from the paint only, then you have to wax it. Silicone will leave a film that the wax may not adhere too. You will have to wash the truck after doing the clay so you can remove all the soapy dried film on the truck. WWW.ZANO.com has the best info and product line

 

Bought my clay bar (clay magic) from a paint supply store which was recommend by a very good body shop. The lubracant I purchased was called final inspection made by magrieers (spelling). Worked prefectly. All the over spray is gone.

 

Worst pun I've seen in a while.

 

By the way, it's ZAINO brothers

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc


Just trying to help.

justin