CHANGING FROM MINERAL OIL TO SYNTHEIC OIL!!! A WEB SITE FOR YOU TO CHECK BEFORE MAKING THE CHANGE. ( NORIA CORP ) Click on lube tips and scroll down to, Changing oil at 50,000 miles. Trusting this will be a help to all. javahjoeo

 

That looks like a great advertisement for synthetics, From my expierence you will have basically 0 varnish at 200K miles if you are running synthetics!
Kind of a slam to "mineral oils". Some synthetic oil vendors do recomend a flush prior to installing, then frequent filter changes for the first 20K miles.

Jim B

 

I've sold synthetic oils for about 12 years. The only thing I ever recomended was an extra filter change on the first run of synthetic oil. This was a precaution to the superior cleaning that those synthetics did over mineral oils 10 years ago. I've explained this before, when compairing oil, the base oil can be a big difference, but the SAE rating on the oil determines the additive package. If 2 oils have the same SAE rating, then they have EXACTLY the same additives. If the additive package is altered, they lose the rating. An example, there are "racing" oils, they have no SAE rating. Why? Because, the additives used are different than a "street" oil. Are they better? Ususally, yes. If you spend $50,000 on a motor: 1-you want the best oil that offers the most protection for your investment, 2- there is no factory warranty. API and SAE are minimum standards for factory warranty's. It give the OE's something to fall back on to make sure that some clown doesn't run vegetable oil (don't laugh, where do you think Castrol came from=castor bean oil) in his crankcase, then want a new motor when it blows up. They can run tests on failed engine components that look for the trace chemicals found in the recommended spec oils.