Well I searched both here and tdr and didn't find a single thread regarding brake fluid. Hasn't anyone changed theirs yet? Anyway I was wondering which brand of fluid is the best?

I noticed that all of a sudden the fluid in my brake reservoir looks kinda burned up. This is since I've been back from a 2700 mile tow. Anyway I was going to hook up my motive brake bleeder and flush out that dirty looking fluid, just wondered what kind was best to get.

 

Lead the way Lightman!

The manual says to use Mopar brake fluid (..no kidding..... realllly?? - bet its pricey too), or an equivalent fluid that meets SAE J1703F and DOT 3 Standards.

I bet we know who'll turn this thred into an Amsoil vs M1 discussion...

 

I just checked the manual .It says use Dot 3 but if thats not available use dot4 or dot4+ . Which is better 3 or 4?

 

Bula, I don't think either companies make brake fluid so we're ok

 

yeah but can you run amsoil 5 40 in your brakesystem

 

I tried Amsoil on my toast this morning! Works great for wart removal also!

 

I am parinoid about brake performance in a 4 ton truck. I remove and replace a pint at every oil change and completely bleed mine out every 50K. I use (plug your ears) Motorcraft Heavy Duty DOT 3. I don't know if it still is, but years back it had the highest boiling point of any DOT 3 brake fluid available.

I also have a Magnefine inline filter in the brake booster return line to the power steering reservoir.

 

Man you guys are funny. I thought I was the only one getting tired of the never ending Amsoil infomercial.

No really, Changing your brake fluid is a really good idea. Most people don't get it done ever on their vehicles.

 

I always switch over to DOT 4 when bleeding brakes. DOT 4 has a higher temp rating and absorbs less moisture. DOT 5 is the best but it's not compatible with ABS systems.

MikeyB

 

Actually I've done some research since posting. It doesn't seem there is much chemical difference (as far as incompatibility is concerned) between dot 3, 4, and 5.1. Note 5.1 is similar to 3 and 4, DOT 5 is incompatible, silicon based.

Apparently there is dry boiling point and wet boiling point. Dry boiling point is the temp resistance to new fluid - as is in bottle. Wet is once it's accumulated 2% water/moisture by volume. With race cars and such where fluid is changed often, dry boiling point is of utmost concern. With our vehicles, wet boiling point is by far the most important.

Brake fluid should be changed according to time in the vehicle, not mileage, best done in the springtime. Most manufacturers recommend every 2 yrs in the spring. I'm gonna do it once a year just because I bought the Motive brake bleeder (a sweet little machine for $49 - one man job and totally easy), and brake fluid is cheap.

So in conclusion from my limited research, while hard to find, dot 5.1 will be the best fluid out there for boiling points. Probably overkill since our trucks only require dot 3, and dot 4 offers better performance than 3 - but then again I consider how hot the brake system gets when being pushed by a heavy trailer down a mountain grade - and figure a little extra temp protection can't hurt!

Two popular/premium dot 4's that are available are ATE Super Blue and Motul 600. The super blue is currently in my MB, and it is great. They actually offer it in blue and tan, so you can alternate with your flushes. Makes it really easy to tell when the new fluid is coming out of the bleeder! The motul stuff dominates pretty much any fluid out there at this point, including the ATE, however, it's mostly used by total fanatics or racers. It's $14.50 for a HALF quart!

 

What would the capacity be for our trucks. Is there a published number, or is it something you find out when you actually do the job.

 

lightman- do you buy the american bleeder kit or the universal one? i need to get me a brake bleeder kit!

 

Bar none, Castol Brake Fluid is the best for Chrysler products. Every time I've used anthing else, I've had uneven pad wear or other annoying issues. It's good stuff!

 

Monkeylips, why do you suggest castrol is the best for chrysler?

Johnny H, capacity isn't really a concern, you just keep the level between min/max as you're bleeding and eventually when done fill it to the max and you're set.

RJM - I have the motive european bleeder because I bought it for my MB before I had the truck. I ordered the adapter for American vehicles though, so when that arrives I'm going to do the flush.

 

The concern is, how much fluid should you buy to do the job.