Brakes on 3500
Brakes on 3500
Anybody able to offer advise on what they did for brakes replacement? I am easy on brakes so this is the first set needed as the brakes are fading and simply not like new anymore. No grooves in the discs but do callipers regularly need to be replaced? My past Japanese vehicles one simply squeezed the calliper pistons back in and changed discs/pads, lubricated the floater pins and away we go. Any recommendations for pad replacement brands and type?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Sometimes you can simple press the pistons back in to the bores. But sometimes there schmutze in there, and won't allow the O-rings to seal. Try it, but if you develop a leak then plan to replace the caliper.
The calipers ride on small pieces of chrome plated steel, inside the caliper bracket. If they're not too bad, you can clean and polish them for re-use. I prefer to replace them, since they're so cheap.
I'm using Autozone gold pads, made by Performance Friction. They perform much better than stock pads. A little bit of dust, but not much. They last about the same miles as the stock pads did.
The calipers ride on small pieces of chrome plated steel, inside the caliper bracket. If they're not too bad, you can clean and polish them for re-use. I prefer to replace them, since they're so cheap.
I'm using Autozone gold pads, made by Performance Friction. They perform much better than stock pads. A little bit of dust, but not much. They last about the same miles as the stock pads did.
I had to do front brakes around 70k due to the passenger side caliper hanging up. I lubed the pins and it started doing it again, so after putting new pins in it still moves nice and free. When I did the pads the driver side looks like it had another 70k in it but the passenger side was worn down bad. I went with whatever the expensive Napa brand was and I've been really happy. Very low dust and seem to stop just about like stock. I've always been happy with the brakes on my truck, and I've worked them pretty hard at times.
Sometimes you can simple press the pistons back in to the bores. But sometimes there schmutze in there, and won't allow the O-rings to seal. Try it, but if you develop a leak then plan to replace the caliper.
The calipers ride on small pieces of chrome plated steel, inside the caliper bracket. If they're not too bad, you can clean and polish them for re-use. I prefer to replace them, since they're so cheap.
I'm using Autozone gold pads, made by Performance Friction. They perform much better than stock pads. A little bit of dust, but not much. They last about the same miles as the stock pads did.
The calipers ride on small pieces of chrome plated steel, inside the caliper bracket. If they're not too bad, you can clean and polish them for re-use. I prefer to replace them, since they're so cheap.
I'm using Autozone gold pads, made by Performance Friction. They perform much better than stock pads. A little bit of dust, but not much. They last about the same miles as the stock pads did.
Whether yoe ABS or not, you should always open a bleeder valve before pressing the piston back in. The caliper has the worst fluid in the system, and should be flushed out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
95black2615
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
4
Aug 22, 2005 09:21 AM
JImbo1
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
13
Apr 18, 2003 06:44 AM



