Proper shutdown + block heater = defrosted windshield.

When you turn off the blower in our trucks, all the HVAC doors close. So, leave the blower "on" and HVAC set to defrost. The doors will stay in that position when you turn everything off. (If you don't believe me, turn the ignition on and turn the blower on and off and listen for the doors to slap open and shut.) Plug in your truck and enjoy the open patches of ice or snow. Most of the time the wipers are even thawed.

Due to convection, the block heater will cause a slow circulation of fluid and push warm coolant into the heater core.

Lots of questions about how long to run the block heater. As long as you need to. Get a cheap timer thats rated to 15 amps and try 4 hours. Adjust from there. Electricians help me out here. 750 watts is around 7 amps so double for protection? Plug the timer into the wall and run a short cord to the truck. Only concern is boiling the water out of the coolant. Sneak up on the heater and you'll hear it boiling around the element. So check your coolant concentration once in a while depending on how much you run the heater.

 

Probably works great in Central MO. If I do the same thing and get a powdery snow over night I get blasted with snow as soon as the truck starts. I think your electrical plan is okay except for the extension cord. 14 gauge is marginal at that distance for continuous amp draw.

I personally would like to look into a Espar (diesel fueled incab heater) or some sort of plug in coolant circulating heater. The circulating heater would be preferred, but I haven't found anything that will work with our trucks specifically.

 

I only end up with two, tiny defrosted spots on my window. I just leave the blower on low all the time. It doesn't work once it get cold. If it is cold enough to actually need the block heater, it won't defrost the window.

 

I'm not sure about the cord size @ 100'. I do know that 14 ga @ 25' will work for me and we have 100' 14 ga. cords running to the 20 big trucks at work.

How are you introducing water into your system to get snow inside the cab? That's kinda cool.

I know that my windshield will be almost ice / snow free here in central Mo. Even down to minus 15 F. Must be a special cold / precipitation there in IL. When I get the call to plow or go into work early, I start the truck, get dressed and take off after maybe 5 minute idle. Trucks at 150 range by the end of the street.

Remember to set it to defrost before you shut down. That will make the difference for me.

 

It's going to be in the middle 40's tonight here in Austin. Do you think I should plug my truck in?????





Sorry guys----I just couldn't help myself


Jay

 

40's in Austin. Did they shut the town down and break out the artic parkas yet. J/K I have friend in dallas that complain about 30 degrees. Mo ain't that much colder but come one 30 is a heat wave.

 

haha most of u guys r way south, i am up in the sticks in wisconsin where running water and electricity are scarce lol i plug my truck in anytime it gets below 20 above zero

 

My bro is near Huston. He came from Mo and couldn't understand why everyone was going home the other week when the dusting came. Then he got in traffic and wished he would've gone home early too.

 

I don't turn on defrost till after I'm moving and all snow has been blown off...I also turn off my defrost 5 miles or so before I get to where I'm going to park for the night, that way the snow is landing on a cold windshield...makes for easier removal.

 

I park outside, wifes truck and a bunch of other junk (boat, quads, lawn mower) takes up the rest of the space in the garage. If we get powdery snow and then the wind blows I get snow into the fresh air intake. As soon as I start the truck, if I didn't turn the HVAC controls to off, as soon as I start the truck when it's cold out I get snow blown out of the windshield ducts.

 

From an electrician:

For a lot of resaons that I won't go into, don't worry about running even a 16 guage extention cord for 100'. All you will do is drop your voltage at the heater a bit and maybe reduce your heating capacity by 20 watts or so. 750 watts is only about 50% of the circuit capacity of 1440 watts (120V X 15A X 80%=1440 watts). 80% is the circuit rating for a continuous load (heating).

The length only really reduces the voltage at the load. Given the temperatures of when you would plug in the truck, any heat generated in the cord will be easily dissipated (exterior cord).

Cya

 

Buy a Kats or similar 1750 watt thermostatic heater and plumb it into your system. Draw the coolant off the lower radiator hose. The coolant circulates and does a much better job than the anemic block heater. In very cold areas use a higher wattage unit.

I retained the low power block heater for garage temps below 50* and ambients below 60*. Warm engines start better, run better and use less fuel than do cold engines. My experience only.

 

I solved the issue with the little buddy interior warmer from Zerostart. I had a Kat's that burned up. Wired it to the front with my block heater plug in. Depending on the temp it is usually about 50 degrees in the truck and that is in Alaska. No scraping. The best thing I ever did for clean windshield and warm truck when parking outside. It is the best 109.00 ever spent. Just don't turn on the heater until the truck has warmed up a bit- or else you loose your stored heat.

 

I've been leaving my selector on "Defrost" and the fan in the "On" position when the truck is plugged in for many years. When all my neighbors are all scraping their windshields my truck usually is totally clear. Gotta love that block heater.......

 

At that temp, I wouldn't leave it plugged in very long. I heard someone tell someone I once knew that they read on the internet that it could be detrimental to something or another.