Well I took my truck to the local alignment shop this morning because it doesn't want to return to center at low speeds. I thought easy fix, right? They put it on the rack and showed me every every end link has play in it and the ball joints have a lot of up and down movement in them and they could not help me. So I left and went straight to the dodge place and talked to them. I told them what the alignment shop found and the service manager said that some play was acceptable in the ball joints? He said they have a special air tool to measure ball joint wear. He drove my truck and didn't think there was a problem with the steering, he thinks the no return to center is a hydraulic problem. So I have an appointment at 0730 Tuesday to determine the problem. Does this even seem remotely correct? I know play in steering linkage equals a wondering truck, and out of spec caster equals no return to center both of which I have. Whats your thoughts?

 

All I can tell you, is that 'some' play IS allowable according to Dodge.

Before I changed my own BJ's, I researched the forums re. this.
The amount of play allowable is not that great.

 

sounds like an excuse to not warranty to me, we'll see Tuesday.

 

tell them you have had the odd happening of death wobble, not often, but catches you off guard. certain bumps, certain speeds, certain loads certain speeds....... but surprising and makes the truck uncontrollable, afraid you may kill someone next time it happens. you should get ball joints and linkages out of that.

 

According to Haynes manual/manufacturer: upper ball joint play is allowable 0.020 inch play is the limit.. "A dial indicator cna be used to check for play"

 

With the frontend jacked up they put a bar under the tire and lifted,while I watched both upper and lower ball joints rise quite a bit. Didn't measure it but it was way more than 20 thou. More like a1/4"

Ive got a list of stuff for them to check Tuesday :front end,security light flashing all the time, metallic clicking (sounds like a valve)

 

Hey, RTA update youre signature.... it will help everyone when giving advise. BTW, it sounds like the ball joints might be a little out of tolerance. good luck

 

sorry , Sig. fixed

 

I bought my truck from a Dodge dealer in February. It had 208K miles on it then. I asked the dealer about the ball joints and front end. He said it checked out ok when they did their inspection, so I assumed the previous owner had already replaced the ball joints (it is normally done around 150K, it seems). About 5K miles later I had a new set of tires put on it. When I sent it to be aligned, the shop called me and showed me that all four ball joints had every bit of 1/2" of play. So, when the dealer says a "little play" is ok, make sure you know how much play is a "little". That was a big expense I hadn't anticipated.

I now have brand new Dynatrac ball joints. Love them.

 

Well I took my truck in this AM, they called me a little while later and asked how much weight I pull? My first thought was none of your dang business, but I fibbed a little and said about 12000, when I asked why he needed to know he said the tech needed to know to set ride height and that I may need to bring my trailer in for them to look at it?? About 30 minutes later he called back an said they will have to order parts, all new steering linkage but they said ball joints were in spec. On a good note they were able to turn off mysecurity light. On my ticking issue they said they cant find anything wrong and it sounds like an exhaust shield heating up. I said the noise gets faster with RPM, and there are no moving parts in the exhaust, also its on the drivers side top and the exhaust is on the other side, sounds like a lifter to me. Oh well they have to warranty it for another 70,000 so I will drive it until it quits. So I will take it back Monday to get the new part installed and be good as new hopefully

 

Did they check your steering gear box for binding? I change them all the time for binding must be made in China or Mexico, they are junk. Disconnect tie rod at the pitman arm to eliminate any steering linkage drag. The steering wheel should turn in both directions freely, no binding. If not replace steering gear. If steering wheel will not return to center at slow speeds after turning, I would say your gear box is the failed part, been seeing this problem in 3500 lately. Make sure they check for recalls, H36 or H46 may apply to your truck.

 

LOWER BALL JOINT - LINK AND COIL
Only special tool is a dial indicator and pry bar. Air operated tool is new to me and I have been working for Dodge 25 years. To properly diagnose the lower ball joint two readings from the dial indicator are necessary, The two readings must be added together to find a total ball joint movement as identified in the steps below.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.


2. Attach a dial indicator (2) with the indicator resting on the flat part of the steering knuckle (1) by the lower ball stud.
3. Set the dial indicator (2) to zero.






NOTE: Use care not to damage the upper ball joint grease seal (3).
4. Pry between the knuckle (4) and the axle tube yoke next to the upper ball joint (2), Record the reading on the dial indicator. This will be the first reading.




5. Set the dial indicator (2) back to zero.
6. Set up a jackstand (3) and use a long prybar (1) to lift the knuckle assembly.




7. Pry upwards on the flat part of the steering knuckle (5) next to the ball joint stud and nut (2) using the jackstand as leverage. Record the reading on the dial indicator. This will be the second reading.
8. Add the two reading together for a total lower ball joint movement. If this reading is above 2.29 mm (0.090 in) then replacement of the lower ball joint is necessary (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Front/BALL JOINT, Suspension - Removal) .

 

[QUOTE=RTA Cattle;2826823
Ive got a list of stuff for them to check Tuesday :front end,security light flashing all the time, metallic clicking (sounds like a valve)[/QUOTE]

Don't know about your year but some 06 vintage trucks would tick like a bad lifter because one of the clips holding the fuel tubes near the manifold was misplaced. Something about the injector vibration and clip interference making the normal injector noise more audible.

 

You might check the seals in the firewall - the grommets - through which your wiring passes through the firewall on the driver's side, and make sure they're in place right. If a grommet is hanging loose, you can hear the sound of the injectors clicking inside the cab and it sounds worse than it is. I have used electrical weather sealant, a clay-like stuff (can't remember what it's called), to help seal the wiring holes and block out the sound. You can get it at any Lowe's or Home Depot in the electrical tools section.

 

Just a hint, the exhaust moves a lot. I do not think it is your issue but it moves. I found it out after having my. New exhaust installed and adjusting it, it move all over. From heat expansion to vibration.
The lose injector line issue is greater than an annoyance, the line will crack at the injector and it does not take long. Check the line supports right away.