Twice now I've needed a puller to get the inside wheel off.

Can't imagine what would happen on the road with a flat.

Anyone have some good tips on making dually wheels easy to remove once the lug nuts are off ?

 

Clean rust with wire brush then try anti-seize to keep the rust away for a while. Just don't get any on the wheel studs.

 

A copper based antisieze compound will work even better, and don't worry about getting it on the stud threads...

If they're already rusted on, I always used a four pound engineer's hammer on the back side of the tires to break them loose...On the side of the road you might kick them loose, but that's dangerous to try if the truck is on a jack...I've heard of (but never tried) loosening the offending lugnuts a few threads then driving a few feet to loosen the wheel...

Preventing the seizure is the best method......Ben

 

Yes, that is a nasty thing to encounter...been there...used a sledge...whacked the top then bottom back and forth 4-5 times...finally wiggled enough to get it off.

Good tip with the copper based anti seize.

 

If you are not carrying a load, loosen the lug nuts 1 turn and drive it 1/4 mile.
They ussually come right off. (after you stop!!!)

 

Granted I've never had to remove an inside tire on the road...only an outside one time...but everytime I rotate my tires I have to kick the crap out of the inside wheel to get it to break loose. I guess the thought of using anti-sieze never crossed my mind. Guess I'll give that theory a whirl next time and see if it fly's.

 

Yeah, me too.

Thanks to all those good suggestions - worth a try for sure.

Someday I'll have to deal with the inside tire somewhere on the road so a fix would be nice.

 

I also very slightly Ground the edge of the center hole on one rim that fit too tightly to fit over the axle well. Clearly, only remove minimal metal. Made a huge difference for one uncooperative rim.
I also coat the mating surfaces liberally with anti-seize.

 

Next time the inner gets stuck try this.

Chock the front wheels.
Jack the rear of the truck getting both rear wheels off the ground.
Place jackstands under BOTH sides of the rear axle.
Loosen all lug nuts a couple of turns
Start the truck.
Place it in gear and allow the rear wheels to spin (don't give it throttle)
Hit the brake. (might take a couple of trys)
This will usually pop the rust weld without having to drive the truck with loose lug nuts possibly damaging/shearing the studs.

Sand the rust from the area of the axle, and the wheel.
Apply a thin coat of anti-sieze.

As for the studs, I give them a small dollop of anti-sieze on the END of the thread, then spin the lug nut down.

Give it a whirl

 

Dually Buddy

 

Wow, $300! I always brush on a liberal amount of anti-seize any time I have to pull a wheel, front or rear.

 

Thanks, good tool - small enough to carry and use for roadside changes.

I used a puller on mine yesterday and talk about pressure to get the inside wheel to pop. I reassemble with the anti-seize and see what happens next time.

 

I agree this tool is too expensive, but it has been in my wishlist since I learned about it a few years ago.
Regardless of the expense, IMHO, it is the best tool out there for those of us with hub-centric dual rear wheels!

 

I'm betting you could make your own pretty cheap. A Harbor Freight puller of adequate size, a couple of their cheap sockets and a couple nuts that fit the puller shaft.

 

Now, how do you expect Bob Vila to get paid that way?