P.J

You will have to go aftermarket for yours, this is a relatively new feature.

There is a company that makes them for your year(s) truck though, I think they are in the neighborhood of $160-$180.
It has a rotary ****.

53 willys

So nobody has this on a 06 yet???

Anybody...............???

I will talk to my dealer on Thursday about it.

ridofpwrstroke

I should update my sig. I ordered an 07

P.J

Update the username while you are at it:

Ridof2ndGen

223 rules

I also would like the interior lights to stay on for more than 5 to 7 seconds.

wagonfixin

53 ****** - I just did the High-Idle on a my new 06' 6spd QC... Not too hard, I've pulled most of the following details from this outstanding forum:


So not to confuse the Dealer when he tries to enable the High Idle in the ECM, it's best if you've electro-mechanically "enabled" it first with either Step-1 or Steps-2 thru 3;

1) Buy the $200 clutch-switch kit and install as instructed. - Pass Go - straight to Step 4…

2) Install a "dummy" clutch-switch by shorting the ECM connector-B Pin #22 to ground as follows: (Note this probably circumvents someone’s concept of safe power-train operation as depressing the clutch with this method will not disengage the high-idle "cruise" setting)

2a) Buy a new ECM connector pin (I bought the Cummins Pigtail part number #3164263 for ~$10.00+tax at a local Kenworth dealer) or use an old junk yard harness to salvage a single pin with a ~6"-7" lead.

2b) If you bought the pigtail #3164263, the lead will be too short, so pick up some 18AWG to extend the lead length. The pigtail already comes with a crimp connector and a heat shrink insulator ready for the extension-lead.

- Crimp the ~5" 18AWG extension-lead into the pigtail and hit the heat-shrink sleeve with a heat-gun (or a lighter!!) Please check your own extension-lead lengths before crimping - this ~5" is from my lousy memory !!

- Add a 1/4" ring terminal to the end of the extension lead (this'll connect to a ground post) - I bought the ones with a semi-clear blue "plastic" sleeve, the sleeve is actually a weather-proof heat shrink. Hit the heat-shrink sleeve with some heat.

3) Remove plug B on the ECM (the 50 pin connector on the drivers side of the engine closest to the rear of engine with a 4mm Allen screw in the center). Note: this is probably best done with the both batteries disconnected first (I did mine with the batteries connected - sloppy).

3a) Push (use a paper clip) the sealing plug out of position #22 (starting at to left, count across, there are 50 pins total, #22 is second in from left, third row down) Note: #22 is the PTO/Clutch switch sense terminal (page 8W 80-98 in the shop manual).

3b) Insert the pigtail-lead into the back of the #22 until you feel a positive detent (click), lightly tug the wire to ensure that it's been properly inserted and cannot be removed. Note: Make sure that you've properly identified #22 - if you've put it into the wrong position, you'll probably need to head over to the dealer to use a special pin removal tool...

3c) Reconnect the ECM connector, don't bother trying to push it on, just seat it square on the ECM connector, and carefully thread the 4mm Allen screw until it bottoms out.

3d) Slide the ring-terminal over the lower-left post of the ECM retaining stud (mine stud had an extra ~1" of available thread)

3e) Add a 1/4-28 fine-grade nut to secure the ring-terminal to the ECM retaining stud, torque to... - oh hell - just tighten it !!!

3f) Reconnect the batteries if disconnected.

4) Take the truck to the dealer to enable the High Idle option. On older models, I think it's an actual TSB (18-004-04) to flash/load the ECM - my '06 just needed it to be enabled.

- If your tech can't figure out what/where a high-idle is (mine didn't know) tell him to follow these menu options (I think these are from the DRBIII and not the Star tool which they used on my '06)
- With the ignition in the “RUN” position, using the DRBIIIT select:
-> DRBIII Standalone
-> xxxx - xxxx Diagnostics
-> All (Except Below)
-> Engine
-> Misc. Function
-> Idle Up Feature Enable (the option is in the same place as the daylight running lights)

- Ensure that the after the flash option has been loaded to the ECM (TSB 18-004-04) that it also activated - this is a additional step !! Again - note that on my newer '06 they just had to enable it - not flash it as a TSB !!

5) If your tech knows his ABC's - he will know how to verify if the high-idle has been properly loaded/enabled - if not, here's how the high idle on my 6spd worked:

- Start truck.
- Stay off the clutch (if clutch switch was installed) and service brake pedals (recommend setting the parking brake on your 6 speed !!).
- Turn on "cruise".
- Hit "set".
- The engine should come up to 1,100 rpm.
- Then hit or hold accel;
- Each time you hit accel momentarily it should go up 100 rpm (Max is 1,500 rpm).
- Each time you hit decel momentarily it should go down 100 rpm (Min is 1,100 rpm).
- Hit the service brake pedal, the RPM's should drop back down to the normal ~750.
- Hit the "set" button, it should run back up to 1100 rpm.
- Hit "cruise" to turn off cruise and the RPM's should drop back down to the normal ~750.

6) If you have any follow on TSB's that flash the ECM, remind the service manager (or better yet the tech) to ensure that high-idle is to be re-enabled following the TSB flash. Mine was disabled after applying the 18-003-06 hard-start TSB last week.

7) Smugly recall the fella who posted his stout-lumber stick "High Idle Management Interface" picture next time you're at a long light out in the flatlands and hit your "Cruise, Set" buttons... Don't roll into the intersection !!

Good luck, hope this helps.

DAVID04

the high idle feather can only be done on auto trans only .it has to see if it is in park or netrul to work standurd trans connot have this done to it .hope this helps

DAVID04

it can only be done on auto trans it needs to see trans is in park or netural to work hope this healps

Ramified5.9

Wagonfixin:
So if this makes sense, can a person just bypass the clutch switch at the pedal itself (thats if it has a switch there like most clutch interlocks)? If I am reading this right, this proceedure with the grounding of the ECM Pin #22 just #1 tells the ECM the clutch is engaged (when in reality it is not) so the truck can be started, & #2 guarantees that the high idle feature will "shut down" the high idle when the clutch pedal is depressed? Other wise if not, the engine would still be revving when you push in the clutch?
If so, then it should still be deactivated when you push the brake pedal or turn the cruise off, correct or am I off base a bit?

On some vehicles (like a newer Jeep) a fuse can be pulled to deactivate the clutch switch. I have in older vehicle been able to plug in an ATO style fuse into the clutch switch too. But I do not know what the switch looks like (it's to cold to go look right now ).

I am basicly wondering if there is another easier way to "bypass" whatever you are tricking the ECM into thinking? If it is just to tell the ECM that the clutch is pressed in, then the switch on the clutch could be easily modified?

53 willys

WOW!!! wagonfixin

Nice first Post


hows my dealer going to feel about these wiring mods???

it seems safer warranty wise to have them enable it and do the wiring later????

I'm scared if they see that my batteries have been disconnected lately that they will think I have a box/programmer even tho I don't have one but I do have gauges.

does the dealer normally enable this feature on 6 speeds???
and did your dealer give you any grief about any of this???

thanks for your help, cheers
53

wagonfixin

Ramified5.9,

The "clutch switch" I'm referring to is a add-on switch kit from Dodge that opens the “grounded circuit” when the clutch is disengaged (pedal depressed) - As I chose to not install this switch on my 6spd, I don't know for certain if the clutch-switch wiring harness actually connects to pin #22 on the ECM – I suspect it does.

To clarify, on my '06, pin #22 is not used in the factory wiring harness. I've shorted #22 to ground to present a dummy "closed circuit" to the ECM, which will allow for the proper functioning of the High-Idle (providing that it's been enabled in the ECM).

There may very well be another way to bypass the ECM function, but I feel that this "#22 to ground" solution is probably the simplest (& cheapest) way to get the ECM to allow High-Idle in the 6spd trucks. I could care-less about the add-on clutch switch to disengage the "cruise" when I hit the pedal.

I'm not smart enough to know/tell if there's any fusing or interfaces that would work like your Jeep's did. I would also be a little bit leary of trying to cowboy-up any existing factory clutch-switches into tricking the ECM for a high-idle.

Someone in this forum commented that both the High-Idle and rear fender-well inserts should be stock on these trucks - I couldn't agree more, I dropped a good chunk of cash for my metal lump - the least they could do is quit nickel-n-diming me by cutting corners on the cheap crap - one lousy switch/wire and a bit-o-injected molded plastic won't kill off the quarterly profit. At least my dealer didn't charge me to enable the feature I'd already paid for !!!

Ramified5.9

Gotcha Wagonfixin and thanks!

I forgot to ask, and this will tell me alot, does/can your truck start without you having to depress the clutch with your current ECM pin #22 grounded?

wagonfixin

I'd bet each service department is different from dealer to dealer... Actually, I did the "enable-and-then-wire" for the same "warranty worry" reason you mentioned, but my tech nearly dropped a load when he enabled it and then it didn't work - he went back into his Star tool, disabled it, then turned the truck over to the service manager with a "defective wiring" writeup - I got back to the desk just as they were gettin' ready to tear into the truck's wiring harness !! It took some smooth talkin' to get 'em to settle down, leave the stock wiring harness alone, re-enable the High-Idle, and then drive my "un-safe" truck back to my little crazy corner of the world and short out #22. So that write-up above has the wiring done first, then all the service fun. If you can get him enable it when you're in the shop later this week - do it, it'll save you a trip - just be prepared to do some hand holding with your tech when the buttons are pushed but the engine doesn't go faster !!

If your dealer gives you heck over disconnecting your batteries, I'd; 1) look for a new dealer, or 2)read him the law regarding warranty - don't forget it's your **** truck, disconnecting the battery is a responsible and safe action during normal maintenance of your expensive machine. If they're looking for a box programmer, they'll be able to read the ECM/engine memory and see what they're looking for (I think the '06+ has more engine reporting such boost/egt/rev etc limits).

So in nutshell, the process above should be the least painful route to take. Both my service counter guy and the tech didn't even know what a high-idle was, let alone if it could be enabled on a 6spd !!

Good luck, and lemme know how it goes - it's an easy mod - and well worth the time and small $$.

wagonfixin

Good question !! I dont think I've ever hit the ignition with the clutch engaged !! I'll give it a try tommorow and let you know - my money is on no ignition without depressing the clutch first...

have a good night.

Ramified5.9

Just a quick parts update:
Cummins part # 4089851 Clutch switch kit from Inland Kenworth runs $89.97
Cummins part # 3164263 ECM pigtail kit from Inland Kenworth runs $10.42