thenrie

I know this is a rehash, but I've done the searches and haven't found what I'm looking for.

My '05 3500 is essentially stock, except for a 2" front leveling lift that was there when I bought the truck. Recently my truck has been "eating" track bar bushings. The first set lasted over 265,000 miles, at which time I started getting the dreaded "death-wobble". Had the bushings replaced (rubber), but started getting death-wobble again after about 10,000 miles. Went back and had the track bar bushings replaced under warranty. Also replaced the front shocks with Bilstein silvers (5100) and the steering damper with a Bilstein unit. I replaced the ball joints with Dynatracs about 50K ago. All other components are good, including stock-size tires. The only thing that has changed in the past year is that I have been putting a lot more highway miles (70mph+) on the truck in the past year.

It's been about 10K miles since I had the last track bar bushings replaced and I'm already feeling the bumpsteer that precedes the death-wobble again. I just had my tire place tell me the track bar bushings are worn out and the tie rod ends have a little play. I still have the Y-style tie rod assembly.

I'm now looking at the Carli adjustable trackbar ($395) and the Synergy Manufacturing Heavy Duty Steering Kit ($665) to put an end to this issue for good.

I would like to hear comments on these components and/or suggestions for others. Again, this isn't a high-lift truck, nor do I use it for off-roading or sled-pulling. It is a truck I use for hauling horses and other common type work. I expect to have it when it hits 500,000 miles, and, if I live long enough, I'll have it at a million. Thanks.

struck380hp

thenrie, hello
I have a pair of 2005 RAMs
2500 4 door short box with the 2006+ steering upgrade (T-link), front leveling kit and same tire as yours, 5100 bilstiens shocks and steering damper
3500 4 door DRW long box with stock Y link...stock ....stock...stock... I did add mud flaps
both trucks are under 150K, stock track bars, both have had ball joints replaced and both could use them again.
So what right.....I share this info because I think I get chance to compare the steering link types back to back over many miles and over the same bumps and dips at least around my area.
So I converted the 2500 over to T link because I too was getting a very weird bump steer floppy wheel feeling but not death wobble ( I know the difference I owned a JK for 2 years), most of the boots were torn on the Y link so it would need to be replaced soon any way but was still tight. I converted using all OEM parts and it for sure creates a much better steering feel and removes the bump steer. I even ran the truck with no steering damper at all for 6 months. Get it you will like it. I think the tire ware is better with T-link but not a fair test considering the ball joints.
Now for the 3500, YES it will get converted someday...It just takes time and money right, but today it is still Y link. Even with the smaller stock tires I still get the wonky bump steer feeling sometimes. Hook up the fifth-wheel and it steers straight take it off and it takes 2 to 3x steering input to keep it the lane - constant correction. Why cuz as you put the 3000 lbs pin load on the hitch it lifts the front end creating more toe in due to bump steer. Front tire ware sucks.
In short I would suggest you get the T-link installed. Stock or other wise I'd just start with getting rid of the Y link. It may fix your issue.
Also OEM T link is much bigger then your current Y link parts. You need the links, steering box arm and a new damper to do the conversion.


Question for you
How do you like the dynatrac ball joints?
Benefits worth the cost?

thenrie

Thanks for the response. That's what I was looking for.

As for the Dynatrac ball joints, I had them installed and haven't had a worry about them since. When I bought the truck it had 208K on it and the dealer told me the front end had been inspected and all was well. I specifically asked about the ball joints. Anyway, that's neither here nor there. After installing new tires, I took it in for an alignment. They came back and said they couldn't do it, due to wear in the ball joints. I asked to see and they showed me about 3/8" play in the ball joints! So, I did some research and decided on the Dynatracs. I ordered them myself and took a good look at them before I had them installed. They are well-made parts. I was very impressed with the workmanship and fit. I had them installed, the front end aligned, and haven't had a worry since. I just checked my log and find I had them installed at 214,292 miles. I now have just over 287K.

Worth the cost? For me, yes. This is the last truck I ever intend to buy. For somebody who changes trucks every few years, maybe not. Dynatracs are rebuildable, others are not. I am pretty sure Dynatrac, as a company, will be around long after I'm gone.

I guess my next upgrades to the truck will be the T-linkage and an aftermarket track bar.

thenrie

Took a trip if about 1400 miles last week. The first half was hauling a tongue-pull trailer with a car on it. No problems. Coming home with the trailer empty, had two occurrences of death-wobble. Like I said before, I have had the track bar bushings replaced with OEM replacement bushings twice in the last 25K miles. They are just not working. I'm going to go ahead with the Carli track bar and take care of this problem. The Carli is probably overkill, but it appears to be the best-made offering on the market.

Still working on the T-link steering components. I've decided to go with a new stock Dodge T-link unit from a 2008 3500, rather than spend the extra money for the Synergy unit. I can get the Dodge unit for about 1/3 the cost.

I'm also considering the steering box reinforcement unit, but don't know how to determine whether mine has the 4-bolt or 6-bolt unit. Can anybody tell me how to tell? From looking at my truck steering box, it appears to be bolted to the frame with 3 bolts.

ftltmp

I just bit the bullet yesterday and bought the Carli ball joints and steering stabilizer, also the Synergy steering linkage. I have not got them yet but I am certain they have to improve the steering . I have only had the death wobble twice , and the was two times too many. I too have bilstein shocks , I don't have the leveling kit, I have read that it contributes to the death wobble. I notice Carli sells a leveling kit that uses longer springs without the spacer, don't know if it makes any difference or not.

ftltmp

This is just my but I know a guy at work that had the factory dodge upgraded t linkage and he had the death wobble. I hope me spending the extra on synergy wil eliminate this happening. From what research ive done the synergy has some kind of spacer at the linkage ends where they connect that makes the steering more solid. I was recommended the synergy by a 4x4 shop here locally, and also by Carli suspension.

thenrie

My Carli track bar arrived yesterday, along with my new Bilstein 5100 steering damper, for the 2009 T-style Dodge OEM tie rod/drag link assembly that should be arriving today.

I decided to go with the OEM steering parts, since I don't use over-size tires or do any off-roading in my truck. I just pull a horse trailer. I'm sure the Synergy unit is nice for that kind of hard use, but I was able to get the factory parts for dealer cost, which is quite a bit less than half the price of the Synergy unit. The OEM parts have been through their paces, had their recalls already, and seem to be performing well for most folks. That will work for me.

I'll probably eventually end up doing the steering box/pitman arm upgrade in the next couple years. For now, my box is still in good shape.

Anybody know the correct length for the track bar for a 2005 3500 with a 2" leveling (front lift) kit?

Carli indicates 39-1/8 for a 3" lift, and I'll be able to get the measurement off my stock track bar. I can interpolate, but I'd rather get the exact number if anybody has it.

thenrie

I installed the Carli track bar this evening. It wasn't too bad of a job. Took me about an hour, but I'm sure it could easily be done in less time. Fits well, but it's obvious, judging from the bends, that it is intended more for lifted trucks than stock. My truck has a 2" leveling kit on it and the track bar comes within about 1/2" of the steering damper on the passenger side while at rest.

I decided to add the late-model 16mm bolts while I was at it, to avoid the use of the sleeves included with the track bar. I was only able to get to the frame side to re-drill the mounting holes to 5/8". I'll have to replace the passenger side when I install the tie rod assembly.

My only complaint about the whole thing (there's always something, isn't there) is the location of the grease zerk on the adjustable hiem joint end. Make sure you place it pointing downward or you won't be able to access it once the bar is installed (don't ask how I know). It would make a lot more sense if they could find an end with the grease zerk loated in the very end. It would still be protected, but would be far more accessible and would allow more leeway in adjusting the length of the bar.

By the way, I set my bar at 39". It appeared the stock length was about a 1/16" less, but because of the location of the zerk, I had to choose 1/16" longer or that much shorter. Went with longer, due to my 2" lift.

ftltmp

I have not got that far yet, I have gotten the ball joints in, and I am very pleased with the quality. I hope to get my steering linkage and track bar in next week.

thenrie

Well, I ordered the tie rod assembly for a 2009 Dodge 3500. What I got isn't what is being offered as the 2003-2008 upgrade. It looks like just the tie rod for a heavier truck than a 3500, and it didn't come with the drag link. It was also more expensive than some I've seen offered online. So, I'm going to send this unit back to the dealership it came from and buy one online.

Now, another question. Will I need to order the pitman arm? What is different about the replacement pitman arm than the original for a 2005 3500?

ftltmp

I'm not sure about the pitman arm, I used my original. I got mine back together and am very pleased with the quality of the products I used,they are a lot heavier built than the factory parts.

thenrie

Glad you got it all back together. I'm hoping to get mine back together next week. I ordered the OEM assembly. After doing a little research, I determined that the pitman arm is not necessary for my setup, but that the new unit has a different angle on it that will be easier on the new parts and will extend the life of the joint on the drag link at the pitman arm, so I ordered one. At $30, I figured, why not?

I also ordered a steering box stabilizer. My steering box is still in good shape and I don't run oversized tires, so I decided that the steering stabilizer might extend the life of my steering box, so that I don't have to make that change. We'll see. Again, at $105, it seemed a good bit of insurance.

Once I get this done, I will have changed-out or reinforced all the parts that can possibly have any effect on the steering. It should cure my "death-wobble" issue once and for all.

ftltmp

Good luck on getting it fixed, like you I wanted to replace everything that may cause the death Wobble instead of just throwing parts at it in hopes to find one that would fix it for a while. My truck is stock height and I'm not sure if a pitman arm is needed on mine, will have to research that.

thenrie

Forgot to post. Got my steering upgrade installed last week. I installed an OEM T-style tie rod/drag link assembly, as well as a new Bilstein 5100 steering damper. I installed the Carli track bar week before last.

I adjusted it according to measurements I took before I disassembled the steering components and got it close enough to make it to an alignment shop the following day.

Turns out that the alignment shop discovered that the passenger side caster adjustment bolt was loose, which is probably what was causing most of my problems and surely was the reason my track bar bushings weren't lasting more than 10,000 miles. Glad that got fixed. Wish I had discovered it sooner.

Oh well, I now have a fully upgraded and very heavy duty steering setup. My steering feels nice and tight and no bump-steer at all. Drove the truck from Salem, UT to Moab, UT, towing a fully loaded 4-horse gooseneck trailer last week. I was quite pleased with the new steering setup.

My total cost was just under $800.

So, got back from Moab last Thursday evening. Started up my truck on Friday morning and found it wasn't running right. Took it in to a shop. They informed me this morning that I'm going to need an engine rebuild. Ugh! I guess that eventually I'll replace everything that can break or wear out.

ftltmp

Congratulations on getting the steering problem fixed, sorry to hear about the engine rebuild seems like when it rains it pours