toypar

I had the same problem of a/c not blowing very cold and pass side being warmer. I charged it to the recommended pressure which was 1 pound 14 oz.
pressure were way low and a/c compressor was cycling a lot. vents blew about 56 deg on a 95 deg day. I ended up putting almost 3.0 pounds of refrigerant in it and pressure went up to normal and a/c blew 41 deg out of both vents. pass side actually blew 1 deg cooler. The factory sugg. refigerant capacity is off at least on my vehicle.

juiceman03

I thank BeemO for trying to help and sent him a personal message and offered to talk with him or someone from DC directly regarding issues I've had with mine...no calls yet. There is no way DC CAN'T be getting feedback from customer service and 5 start dealers on this issue. They gave me $800 "assistance" for my troubles - or was it hush $$? As Uncle Ted would say, "the revolution is on"! I'm just not sure who's winning yet...

Mine is still blowing cold in 95F FL heat after a couple months with a new compressor and accumulator. You might want to try this test also as you troubleshoot your system:
Drive down the road at hwy speed, air off, fan off, selector on recirc. Mine blows hot air out of vents!! It's a broken fresh air (not blend) door controller letting outside air into the system. They diagnosed this issue the first time for me and told me it would be $500+ to order and fix the controller! When I went back for the compressor, they couldn't find an issue! I do think the controller is messed up but dealers change parts. I wanted to see if it cooled OK with the other work first and it does...$500 can buy a lot of R134A to recharge the system (which I did before w/ success) if these issues pop up in the future so I'm holding tight for now.

Hounddog

Well BEEMO jumped into can of worms and I bet someone told him to stay out of it.He has only posted a few times.Who knows if he is for real or just jerking folks around.

Spooler

Oops, duplicate.

Spooler

Well, my truck will bust that 12 degree difference no problem. They know they have an issue. Best thing for them to do is be quit, fix the problem, then send out a TSB and correct everyones issues for free. I am an Engineer. Sometimes things are not crystal clear. You will have to test and retest to get down to the root of the problem if it is complex which this one is. They need to get the Mule truck out, test, test, and test again until they get it corrected. I don't see how fan optimzation and orifice tube size change will make that great a difference. The system is cooling, you can feel it on the driver's side. Temp is great. It's in the vent system. Some vent is moving somewhere that they don't see. Somehow it is leaking ambient air into the system and it's going thru the passenger side vents. If you are reading this, test it your hardheads, you'll see. Oh yeah, Beemo, here is a little advice. Read the info, ask questions if necessary without saying who you are, and go test. Ask more questions if you need to. Everyone here will gladly go test it for you. We all want our trucks A/C working properly. Not some 12 degree difference crap.

beem0

After reading thru the latest post, some comments.....

Half the evaporator gets warm, thus causing the passenger side outlets to go warm on acceleration. Like Spooler said this is a complex system, especially during acceleration where this issue is (the compressor is speeding up, along with airflow over the condenser). I do know charge level affects this. If you are low it is worse.

Someone mentioned a fresh/recirc door issue. This is easy to check. Just pull the glove box out of the way and stick your hand back there. Just above the blower there is a door. Simply find it and see if it moves when you go between fresh and recic. Usually if it is broken you will hear noise as it can fall into the blower wheel.

robwashu

beem0
You keep posting that low charge levels make the this issue worse, so what is "this issue". Most of us have had our trucks in to have the charge levels checked and they were correct or were corrected, but "this issue" still exists. Now what. "This issue" has to be electrical or mechanical and has to have a fix, even if it is a DC redesigned part.

toypar

If the techs are just putting in the amout of refrigerant that the stickers says then it is still probably still low on refrigerant. mine took almost 3.0 pounds for the pressures to read right and temps out the vents to be right 41 deg on a 95 deg day.

45auto

Was told by the dealer there is a new fill spec for this system. What that is??? he didn't say. Wish someone would try swapping it out for a Ford or GM compressor to see what would happen then

Hounddog

Just some direct answers to amount of charge and the OTHER issues would be nice instead of this going around the mulberry bush thing.

robwashu

The "new" charge spec from DC is just a reminder to the tech that 1lb 14oz is 30 oz. not 1.14lbs. My dealer gave me the solution# and the a print out of the page.

deere nut

I've been experiencing a similair problem on my 03 truck. The passenger side is a little cooler than the driver side but it appers my a/c is freezing up too. After about an hour the air flow slows to a trickle even with the air on full blast. I looked at the recirculation door and watched it after the air stopped flowing - it still worked properly. I then took it to the dealer. They then told me it was the recirculation door - BS. I spoke with the general manager and he agreed with me. He said it was probably a pressure sensor that usually goes out and causes the a/c coil to freeze up. We'll see. I'm not usre what this pressure sensor is.

MikeyB

Have them do the obvious first, check the high and low pressure on the system as per the ambient temperature. Or take it to a A/C shop that knows what they are doing.

MikeyB

Spooler

deere nut this is a problem that has been addressed many times. Your issue is the location of the Fin Temp sensor. They have a TSB on relocating this fin temp sensor to correct position on the evaporator. That is why your truck is freezing up. It is not kicking off the compressor when it is supposed to. The Fin Temp sensor basically gets relocated to the coldest part of the evaporator. This will correct your issue.

Spooler

Just in case you guys don't know this I will post the info. Most A/C machines work in either Kg's or Lbs. You select either metic or English units (lbs or kgs). You can't put in oz. So if our systems take 30 ozs of R134a that is 1.88 lbs of R134a. That is the number you will punch in your machine. The TSB will help bigtime if the Tech understands it. If a tech put in 1.14lbs that is .74 lbs low. That would make a huge difference. That is over a half a pound low. There is 16oz to 1 lb. So 30/16=1.875 approx. 1.88lbs.

In other words, if you have had your system evaccuated and recharged due to problems, Fin temp sensor relocation, or whatever reason it is very possible that your system was not recharged properly. Problems may be due to human error. All foreign cars use metric(kg) and American use lbs and oz. This means you will have to convert the oz. number to decimal lbs.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/