$1000 A/C Repair Not Covered by Ext Warranty
06-15-2007, 11:59 AM
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$1000 A/C Repair Not Covered by Ext Warranty
I'm upset enough that I'm on the verge of trading this POS on a Silverado or Sierra (DMAX/Allison).
I just got this truck in April, and paid a bunch of money for a DC extended warranty.
A/C went out a week or so ago, so I took it in. They added freon and insisted it was fine. This of course was not covered, so they charged me $200 and sent me on my way (that was annoying -- I could have done that myself for far less).
The now-cold A/C lasted maybe twenty minutes before it was blowing hot air again. So back I went.
Now they tell me it's a bad evap coil sensor or something, inside the dash. It's a $50 part but requires nine hours' labor to remove the dash to change it, so it's a $1000 repair that is once again NOT COVERED BY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. ***?
Has anybody been able to replace this thing themselves? There's gotta be a way to get to it that doesn't involve removing the whole dash. There's gotta be a hole or something someplace that you can cut to get to it.
Anybody know?
Rob
I just got this truck in April, and paid a bunch of money for a DC extended warranty.
A/C went out a week or so ago, so I took it in. They added freon and insisted it was fine. This of course was not covered, so they charged me $200 and sent me on my way (that was annoying -- I could have done that myself for far less).
The now-cold A/C lasted maybe twenty minutes before it was blowing hot air again. So back I went.
Now they tell me it's a bad evap coil sensor or something, inside the dash. It's a $50 part but requires nine hours' labor to remove the dash to change it, so it's a $1000 repair that is once again NOT COVERED BY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. ***?
Has anybody been able to replace this thing themselves? There's gotta be a way to get to it that doesn't involve removing the whole dash. There's gotta be a hole or something someplace that you can cut to get to it.
Anybody know?
Rob
06-15-2007, 03:47 PM
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Don't take their word for it!!!
I'm an air conditioning contractor. If they added freon to it & it cooled for a while, it's probably leaking freon, most likely place, evaporator for inside of truck. My truck is 6 mos old & it's not cooling & going to dealer Monday. 2 out of 10 new evaporators I installed in homes leaked new from box. Bad workmanship & cheap materials. Do your self a favor, go buy some freon gauges from Autozone & check the freon yourself, you'll find it's low. If you're going to take your dash apart, at least change the right part.
06-15-2007, 03:51 PM
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I'm upset enough that I'm on the verge of trading this POS on a Silverado or Sierra (DMAX/Allison).
I just got this truck in April, and paid a bunch of money for a DC extended warranty.
A/C went out a week or so ago, so I took it in. They added freon and insisted it was fine. This of course was not covered, so they charged me $200 and sent me on my way (that was annoying -- I could have done that myself for far less).
The now-cold A/C lasted maybe twenty minutes before it was blowing hot air again. So back I went.
Now they tell me it's a bad evap coil sensor or something, inside the dash. It's a $50 part but requires nine hours' labor to remove the dash to change it, so it's a $1000 repair that is once again NOT COVERED BY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. ***?
Has anybody been able to replace this thing themselves? There's gotta be a way to get to it that doesn't involve removing the whole dash. There's gotta be a hole or something someplace that you can cut to get to it.
Anybody know?
Rob
I just got this truck in April, and paid a bunch of money for a DC extended warranty.
A/C went out a week or so ago, so I took it in. They added freon and insisted it was fine. This of course was not covered, so they charged me $200 and sent me on my way (that was annoying -- I could have done that myself for far less).
The now-cold A/C lasted maybe twenty minutes before it was blowing hot air again. So back I went.
Now they tell me it's a bad evap coil sensor or something, inside the dash. It's a $50 part but requires nine hours' labor to remove the dash to change it, so it's a $1000 repair that is once again NOT COVERED BY THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. ***?
Has anybody been able to replace this thing themselves? There's gotta be a way to get to it that doesn't involve removing the whole dash. There's gotta be a hole or something someplace that you can cut to get to it.
Anybody know?
Rob
Bob
06-15-2007, 03:55 PM
#4
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How many miles on it?
The selling dealer sold it as-is or with a 3 month warranty?
The extended warranty usually includes a grace period to protect themselves from someone buying a policy for the purpose of having an already present problem fixed.
The selling dealer sold it as-is or with a 3 month warranty?
The extended warranty usually includes a grace period to protect themselves from someone buying a policy for the purpose of having an already present problem fixed.
06-15-2007, 04:23 PM
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Another reason not to waste your money on ext warranties. Think about how valuable your home is and how much ins. costs. Think about what a transmission or whatever is worth and how much the extra ins costs. Probably 25% ? of cost of tran. repair. What if your home insurance was 25% of value of your home? These numbers are not spot on but I bet they are pretty close. Personally, I think insurance is for a catastrophy. Hope you can get it fixed, seems to be a recurring problem, I am probably next. Good luck.
06-15-2007, 06:38 PM
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I'll go get some guages and check the freon level myself... that's a good first place.
The more I think about it, the more I'm not convinced it's that evap sensor. I'm glad to hear there may be an easier way to get to it IF it turns out to be the problem.
Here's what was happening:
Before they added freon:
The A/C would be sporatic. Basically, it'd be cold, then it'd get warm for no reason. If you did one or more of the following, it might get cold again, but it was at best a 25-30% chance it'd make it cold again:
- Turn the a/c button off and back on
- Turn the blower **** off and back on
- Turn the temp **** towards warm and then back to cold
After they added freon:
It's basically the same, except that you get cold air more often... i.e. there's a better chance that one of the actions mentioned above would bring back the cold air. However, what's different is that now the cold air doesn't stay as long. Before, it might stay cold for 15-20 min... now it's about 5-7 min max. Also, while it's cold, you can feel it go slightly warmer, then colder, then warmer, then colder. Not always, but sometimes.
Not knowing how the system works exactly, my best guess is that it's more likely the control panel than the evap sensor. But I could be wrong.
BTW, this is the regular A/C panel, not the dual zone setup... it's not a Laramie.
There was no 3-mo warranty that I know of... but I will likely cancel the ext warranty fairly soon, since I still have the factory powertrain warranty cover the engine and trans to 100k. The truck currently has a smidge over 50k on it.
Rob
The more I think about it, the more I'm not convinced it's that evap sensor. I'm glad to hear there may be an easier way to get to it IF it turns out to be the problem.
Here's what was happening:
Before they added freon:
The A/C would be sporatic. Basically, it'd be cold, then it'd get warm for no reason. If you did one or more of the following, it might get cold again, but it was at best a 25-30% chance it'd make it cold again:
- Turn the a/c button off and back on
- Turn the blower **** off and back on
- Turn the temp **** towards warm and then back to cold
After they added freon:
It's basically the same, except that you get cold air more often... i.e. there's a better chance that one of the actions mentioned above would bring back the cold air. However, what's different is that now the cold air doesn't stay as long. Before, it might stay cold for 15-20 min... now it's about 5-7 min max. Also, while it's cold, you can feel it go slightly warmer, then colder, then warmer, then colder. Not always, but sometimes.
Not knowing how the system works exactly, my best guess is that it's more likely the control panel than the evap sensor. But I could be wrong.
BTW, this is the regular A/C panel, not the dual zone setup... it's not a Laramie.
There was no 3-mo warranty that I know of... but I will likely cancel the ext warranty fairly soon, since I still have the factory powertrain warranty cover the engine and trans to 100k. The truck currently has a smidge over 50k on it.
Rob
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06-15-2007, 07:02 PM
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I think the three month warranty is on factory certified used vehicles purchased at a 5 star dealer
I also think your 05 has a 7/70 power train warranty and a 7/100 warranty on the engine only.
I also think your 05 has a 7/70 power train warranty and a 7/100 warranty on the engine only.
06-15-2007, 07:10 PM
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Guess that if it was me I would give the selling delaer 1 more chance to fix it. Demand that they repair it as it wasn't working when you bought it but due to the weather you were not able to check it till recently and found out it wasn't working. You should explain to them that it should have been diganosed and repaired prior to selling same truck to you. Then if you don't get any satisfaction form that level ask to speak to the general manager or owner of the dealership explaining the same as above and that you feel that they misrepresented the truck as all features were supposed to be working when you purchased the truck. Just maybe (by keeping your cool which is hard to do when they are spending your money) and going thru the right channels you might get something done for substantually reduced cost or for free. Be sure to mention that you haven't had it for 90 days yet (or whatever is appropriate). Might get something that way. Also mention that it didn't even work after charging you $200 to fix and it didn't work after that then either......
06-15-2007, 09:29 PM
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I'll go get some guages and check the freon level myself... that's a good first place.
The more I think about it, the more I'm not convinced it's that evap sensor. I'm glad to hear there may be an easier way to get to it IF it turns out to be the problem.
Here's what was happening:
Before they added freon:
The A/C would be sporatic. Basically, it'd be cold, then it'd get warm for no reason. If you did one or more of the following, it might get cold again, but it was at best a 25-30% chance it'd make it cold again:
- Turn the a/c button off and back on
- Turn the blower **** off and back on
- Turn the temp **** towards warm and then back to cold
After they added freon:
It's basically the same, except that you get cold air more often... i.e. there's a better chance that one of the actions mentioned above would bring back the cold air. However, what's different is that now the cold air doesn't stay as long. Before, it might stay cold for 15-20 min... now it's about 5-7 min max. Also, while it's cold, you can feel it go slightly warmer, then colder, then warmer, then colder. Not always, but sometimes.
Not knowing how the system works exactly, my best guess is that it's more likely the control panel than the evap sensor. But I could be wrong.
BTW, this is the regular A/C panel, not the dual zone setup... it's not a Laramie.
There was no 3-mo warranty that I know of... but I will likely cancel the ext warranty fairly soon, since I still have the factory powertrain warranty cover the engine and trans to 100k. The truck currently has a smidge over 50k on it.
Rob
The more I think about it, the more I'm not convinced it's that evap sensor. I'm glad to hear there may be an easier way to get to it IF it turns out to be the problem.
Here's what was happening:
Before they added freon:
The A/C would be sporatic. Basically, it'd be cold, then it'd get warm for no reason. If you did one or more of the following, it might get cold again, but it was at best a 25-30% chance it'd make it cold again:
- Turn the a/c button off and back on
- Turn the blower **** off and back on
- Turn the temp **** towards warm and then back to cold
After they added freon:
It's basically the same, except that you get cold air more often... i.e. there's a better chance that one of the actions mentioned above would bring back the cold air. However, what's different is that now the cold air doesn't stay as long. Before, it might stay cold for 15-20 min... now it's about 5-7 min max. Also, while it's cold, you can feel it go slightly warmer, then colder, then warmer, then colder. Not always, but sometimes.
Not knowing how the system works exactly, my best guess is that it's more likely the control panel than the evap sensor. But I could be wrong.
BTW, this is the regular A/C panel, not the dual zone setup... it's not a Laramie.
There was no 3-mo warranty that I know of... but I will likely cancel the ext warranty fairly soon, since I still have the factory powertrain warranty cover the engine and trans to 100k. The truck currently has a smidge over 50k on it.
Rob
1. Have you noticed any cooling air coming out of any other vents, such as the Defrost or floor vents? Yor might have a broken blend door. There is a TSB out for this problem.
2. How clean is your front grille area? Is there a lot of bent over fins or bugs on the condensor core in front of the after cooler? A good scrubing and straightening might be all you need.
3. Did you pay $150 for the extended warranty? If so, then you only bought a transfer of the original warranty, which would only cover the Bumper to Bumper Warranty up to 36,000 miles, the Powertrain up to 70,000 miles and the Diesel Engine up to 100,000 miles with an $100 deductable.
Here is a brief desription on how your trucks A/c should cool with the A/c compressor being starting point.
At the A/c Compressor the pump/pulls the low pressure freon/oil mix into the compressor and presurizes it. This is when the compressor has a electical signal to do so with the trucks engine running. The freon/oil mix then exits the compressor on the high side of the system and travels to the A/c Condensor to cool the heated freon. After cooling the freon/oil mix then goes to the Reciever Dryier; which is the Silver Cylinder looking device, to be separated from any small particles of moisture in the system. After being clean and dried the freon/oil mix heads to the Exspansion Valve. The expansion valve separates the high side of the A/c system from the low side. This diffrence in pressure at the valve is what makes your A/c system work. The freon/oil mix rapidly changes pressure while passing through the valve. This rapid change of pressure cause a rapid change in temperature by allowing the freon to absorb any heat near the valve. This is where the Evaporator/Cooler comes in as a large radiator for the freon/oil mix. Basicly, the freon is like the antifreeze in your engine and the A/c system is a heat pump. The freon leaves the exspansion valve and passes through the evaporator cooler which has cab or outside air being passed trough it. The freon/oil mix then absorb the warm air and continue back towards the comprssor. This is where the Thermatic Valve Switch is placed to prevent the Evaporator Cooler from freezing solid.
My guess with out hooking your truck up to a manifold gauge is the system has a thermatic control valve switch failure or your blend doors are at fault.
Shawn
06-15-2007, 09:50 PM
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I have a few questions that need to be answered before I can give you a Diagnostic.
1. Have you noticed any cooling air coming out of any other vents, such as the Defrost or floor vents? Yor might have a broken blend door. There is a TSB out for this problem.
2. How clean is your front grille area? Is there a lot of bent over fins or bugs on the condensor core in front of the after cooler? A good scrubing and straightening might be all you need.
3. Did you pay $150 for the extended warranty? If so, then you only bought a transfer of the original warranty, which would only cover the Bumper to Bumper Warranty up to 36,000 miles, the Powertrain up to 70,000 miles and the Diesel Engine up to 100,000 miles with an $100 deductable.
Here is a brief desription on how your trucks A/c should cool with the A/c compressor being starting point.
At the A/c Compressor the pump/pulls the low pressure freon/oil mix into the compressor and presurizes it. This is when the compressor has a electical signal to do so with the trucks engine running. The freon/oil mix then exits the compressor on the high side of the system and travels to the A/c Condensor to cool the heated freon. After cooling the freon/oil mix then goes to the Reciever Dryier; which is the Silver Cylinder looking device, to be separated from any small particles of moisture in the system. After being clean and dried the freon/oil mix heads to the Exspansion Valve. The expansion valve separates the high side of the A/c system from the low side. This diffrence in pressure at the valve is what makes your A/c system work. The freon/oil mix rapidly changes pressure while passing through the valve. This rapid change of pressure cause a rapid change in temperature by allowing the freon to absorb any heat near the valve. This is where the Evaporator/Cooler comes in as a large radiator for the freon/oil mix. Basicly, the freon is like the antifreeze in your engine and the A/c system is a heat pump. The freon leaves the exspansion valve and passes through the evaporator cooler which has cab or outside air being passed trough it. The freon/oil mix then absorb the warm air and continue back towards the comprssor. This is where the Thermatic Valve Switch is placed to prevent the Evaporator Cooler from freezing solid.
My guess with out hooking your truck up to a manifold gauge is the system has a thermatic control valve switch failure or your blend doors are at fault.
Shawn
1. Have you noticed any cooling air coming out of any other vents, such as the Defrost or floor vents? Yor might have a broken blend door. There is a TSB out for this problem.
2. How clean is your front grille area? Is there a lot of bent over fins or bugs on the condensor core in front of the after cooler? A good scrubing and straightening might be all you need.
3. Did you pay $150 for the extended warranty? If so, then you only bought a transfer of the original warranty, which would only cover the Bumper to Bumper Warranty up to 36,000 miles, the Powertrain up to 70,000 miles and the Diesel Engine up to 100,000 miles with an $100 deductable.
Here is a brief desription on how your trucks A/c should cool with the A/c compressor being starting point.
At the A/c Compressor the pump/pulls the low pressure freon/oil mix into the compressor and presurizes it. This is when the compressor has a electical signal to do so with the trucks engine running. The freon/oil mix then exits the compressor on the high side of the system and travels to the A/c Condensor to cool the heated freon. After cooling the freon/oil mix then goes to the Reciever Dryier; which is the Silver Cylinder looking device, to be separated from any small particles of moisture in the system. After being clean and dried the freon/oil mix heads to the Exspansion Valve. The expansion valve separates the high side of the A/c system from the low side. This diffrence in pressure at the valve is what makes your A/c system work. The freon/oil mix rapidly changes pressure while passing through the valve. This rapid change of pressure cause a rapid change in temperature by allowing the freon to absorb any heat near the valve. This is where the Evaporator/Cooler comes in as a large radiator for the freon/oil mix. Basicly, the freon is like the antifreeze in your engine and the A/c system is a heat pump. The freon leaves the exspansion valve and passes through the evaporator cooler which has cab or outside air being passed trough it. The freon/oil mix then absorb the warm air and continue back towards the comprssor. This is where the Thermatic Valve Switch is placed to prevent the Evaporator Cooler from freezing solid.
My guess with out hooking your truck up to a manifold gauge is the system has a thermatic control valve switch failure or your blend doors are at fault.
Shawn
Nope.........no expansion valve,no dryer do your homework than come back
06-16-2007, 10:57 AM
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Our trucks use a fixed orifice tube in the liquid line and a temp sensor probe that installs into the evaporator core in a certain fin location to cycle the compressor on & off. It does this so the evaporator does not freeze up.
06-16-2007, 10:58 AM
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Shawn:
To answer your questions...
No cooling air out of any other vents. The doors appear to be good, but I will doublecheck this morning when I head out in a bit.
The grille area is fairly clean... there are some bugs, but it's not plastered. I will hose it down good tomorrow just to be safe. I may build a screen cover for it like I had on my '96 and '01.
My extended warranty was $1600... it's the full wrap to 100k on everything, allegedly.
Thanks!
Rob
To answer your questions...
No cooling air out of any other vents. The doors appear to be good, but I will doublecheck this morning when I head out in a bit.
The grille area is fairly clean... there are some bugs, but it's not plastered. I will hose it down good tomorrow just to be safe. I may build a screen cover for it like I had on my '96 and '01.
My extended warranty was $1600... it's the full wrap to 100k on everything, allegedly.
Thanks!
Rob
06-16-2007, 11:33 AM
#15
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