Auto On Exhaust Brake Mod
#16
DTR Founder
There a bunch of reasons why you would want to run the truck with the EB on all the time. Mainly for DPF purposes...
#18
Registered User
I understand that, just wondering if the EB on the 6.7 pushes soot into the oil as much as the 5.9? From what I have read most of it probably happens when the EB is on with a cold engine and the rings haven't fully sealed the cylinders off... UOA would tell the story.
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got ya! I Can't answer that, cause I don't do UOA's, I just change regularly!!
#21
Registered User
I've had some BAD experiences with jiffy/quickie lube places and our old company trucks. Stripped transfer case bolts, stripped transmission fluid level bolts, etc. I think I'll take Cummins' advice and change it every 6 months or 7500 miles and not worry about it (at least until the deletes and smarty come along...).
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
OK guys, not trying to be rude, but lets keep this thread on topic so guys that want to do it won't have to search through 10 pages of off topic discussion to get the info they need
#24
"California Style"
That is true. However, if you're concerned then just turn it off instead of having to turn it on... Or don't bother with this modification.
#26
Couldn't one use a SPST relay and a prewired relay socket?
Then just wire the resistor to the 87 term wire run?
Relay with 87 term plugged into socket, 15ohm resistor soldiered into wire run from that 87 socket, other end of same wire run to and spliced/soldiered into brown/orange exhaust brake switch wire?
Then just wire the resistor to the 87 term wire run?
Relay with 87 term plugged into socket, 15ohm resistor soldiered into wire run from that 87 socket, other end of same wire run to and spliced/soldiered into brown/orange exhaust brake switch wire?
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
#29
I used a 0332209161 Bosch/Tyco relay into a HD relay pigtail socket.
Relay socket color coded and prewired:
Yellow 87
Red 87A
Blue 30
White 86
Black 85
I removed the yellow wire and pin end.
I removed the red wire soldiered a 2711102 resistor to female plug then to wire and 2X shrunk wrapped then replaced into plug
I removed blue, white, and black wires and soldiered connections, shrunk wrapped and replaced into plug.
Then I 3X shrunk wrapped for about 4 inches the RED BLUE BLACK AND WHITE wires from the plug into a factory like, extra strong harness.
I then disassmbled the cig lighter switch plug wires and soldiered the white to black yellow and the black to the pink yellow wire, shrunk wrapped both soldiered connections and reasembled the switch, plugging it back into the cig lighter.
Lastly I dissambled the Exhaust brake wiring plug wires soldiering the red to the brown/orange wire and the blue to the violet/brown wire, shrunk wrapped both connections reassembled the switch plug and plugged it back in.
When all done I picked a nice flat space to attach the relay to, through the top holder hole. One self tapping screw and all done. One of the 2 phillips head screws works great also.
If the relay blows simple unplug & replace.. the connections will NEVER COME LOOSE or become corroded.
Just like everything on my truck I build accessories to the same or heavier duty standards...
a couple of bucks and a few mins now
saves hundreds and hours later...
Relay socket color coded and prewired:
Yellow 87
Red 87A
Blue 30
White 86
Black 85
I removed the yellow wire and pin end.
I removed the red wire soldiered a 2711102 resistor to female plug then to wire and 2X shrunk wrapped then replaced into plug
I removed blue, white, and black wires and soldiered connections, shrunk wrapped and replaced into plug.
Then I 3X shrunk wrapped for about 4 inches the RED BLUE BLACK AND WHITE wires from the plug into a factory like, extra strong harness.
I then disassmbled the cig lighter switch plug wires and soldiered the white to black yellow and the black to the pink yellow wire, shrunk wrapped both soldiered connections and reasembled the switch, plugging it back into the cig lighter.
Lastly I dissambled the Exhaust brake wiring plug wires soldiering the red to the brown/orange wire and the blue to the violet/brown wire, shrunk wrapped both connections reassembled the switch plug and plugged it back in.
When all done I picked a nice flat space to attach the relay to, through the top holder hole. One self tapping screw and all done. One of the 2 phillips head screws works great also.
If the relay blows simple unplug & replace.. the connections will NEVER COME LOOSE or become corroded.
Just like everything on my truck I build accessories to the same or heavier duty standards...
a couple of bucks and a few mins now
saves hundreds and hours later...
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 14
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You could also run a toggle switch inline on the power feed from the lighter socket to disable the auto-on feature. When it's crappy weather, that could save you the time of pulling the dash face off and unplugging wires/relay. Then when it's nice again, you could flip the switch and have the EB turn itself auto on again.
Nice write-up, BTW. Thanks!
Nice write-up, BTW. Thanks!