Just finished? installing gauges in the dash pod and have the positive leads out to the fuse panel. Lousey temporary connection of jamming the wire in the fuse connection and put the lid back on. How does one get to the bottom of the fuse panel to connect a wire to a spare fuse slot? I feel like I did a really professional installation till I got to the positive leads for the egt LED and trans temp. Worked the wires into the bundles and now I have to leave them hang out of the box!?!
I thought about the in-line fuse bit but this really awesum truck shouldn't have to be degraded by add-ons.
So any info for attaching the wire to the underside of the fuse panel with the rest of the wires will be greatly appreciated!

 

I'm not totally sure on an 03, but normally there are spare taps in the fuse block for these types of add ons. They are marked ign or acc or batt. Use a test light to get the tap you want.They also make a clip that plugs in the fuse with a spade type term, called a fuse tap terminal. The fuse block usually either has a couple screws or is snapped together to access the back side. Again use a test light to get the correct wire. Hope this helps.

 

Why are you running back through the firewall to get switched +12V? All of my gauges draw power from the cigarette lighter circuit, and tap into the red wire on the cig. lighter connector behind the center bezel.

 

What most of us have done is install a ignition switch enabled fuse block in the truck. All you need is a fuse block and a relay that you connect to lets say the cigarette ligther 12v that way it's only available when the truck is running. I installed mine just below the radio. I have 6 powered taps to use and that way I only go thru the firewall once. Oh yeah this power comes directly from the battery so I know it's good.

 

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I was out of pocket here for 5 days. Just catching up now. Never thought to tie into something besides the instrument lights. The illustration shows a battery as the power for the +12 so brain fart here was tunnel visioned in on THE battery as the source.
Thats why everybody says ya'll are such great help and encouragement.

 

Sorry guys dont want to sound harsh, but here is my two cents on the issue. After reading so many post on this topic from this site and many others, I find it hard to believe many of you have not set your trucks on fire or caused major electrical issues. I've read soo many hokey install methods. All of you seem to be off the mark (to each his own), why tap the lighter +12v. Took mine from the ignition power as many accessories are powered up by this method, which I believe was pink and grey and used the factory black ground wire in the same bundle under the dash for the ignition (Dont hold me to that I have an 04.5) I asked the same question as many have before and then went and did all my home work at dodgebodybuilders.com. The gauge comes on when I put the key in and turn it to start the stays powered up once in the run position. Ran the illumination from the illumination ckt as well. I have had no problems as of yet. Note, I have a good understanding of electrical diagrams and systems which is why I chose the ignition power over the many numerous methods I was offered by this sites members. I believe if you are going to do it yourself, do it as well or better than the factory can so down the line you dont have wires popping out of fuse sockets.

01350banshee

 

Because it's easily accessible, fused at 20A, switched with the ignition, and most likely an otherwise unused circuit (I've never used my cigarette lighter - how about you?) Done properly (like any other electrical job), there will be absolutely no issues with this. Now - shoving wires into fuse sockets, well... that's a different story altogether.

 

Roger that,
as I mentioned before "to each his own". I found it easier to tap the ign pwr/illum ckts and the factory ground ckt to keep the wire length as short and neat as possible (has to do with that ohm's law thing) and it is also fuse protected. My westach combo gauge in a srt-10 a-pillar does not draw very much current, is neatly bundled within the factory cable bundle as such the service manager at the local dodge dealer had no idea I installed it myself. He also asked if that was new option he was not aware of. As for the comment I made, If I recall correctly I had a guy tell me to drill into the a-pillar for my gauge ground I also had someone say tap into the radio power for both illum and +12vdc. Too many questionable methods for me, thats why I did my home work on each and found the best I felt worked for my situation. Lastly I have a co-worker with a 2002 CTD that has soo many jurrie rigged electrical connections, it is not uncommon for his entire interior and exterior lighting to go out without warning. He wont listen to me, as I offered to help clean up his mess for free. Yet he feels he did a professional job and saved a few hundred bucks doing it. Go figure.

 

I would think tapping into the wire under the dash that enables your lighting to be adjusted at night would be the most logical place for the lighting power at least. (Dimmer Switch)

 

I wired up my pod and ran a universally connected black wire to the ground under the dash.

I then ran the universally connected (where applicable) ignition wire positive (+) to the cigarette lighter wire. I don't remeber the color of the wire but just pry the lighter assemby out and you'll see the color.

Regarding the gauge lighting, I pulled the light switch from the dash and tapped into the "light brown" wire and now I have lighting for the gauges that dims when the other lights are dimmed.

Thanks to all comments which helped me do my research and helped with my flawless installation. I'm utilizing the orig. fuses to protect the circuit. The cigarette wire circuit fuse is accessed on the side of the dash on the left and the light circuit (lt brown wire) is fused in the engine compartment under the rear light circuit. I think they are both fused at 15a.

Hope this helps someone else!

 

geno,s garage sells a easy wiring block we use on all our truck's it has 7 circuits i think it is 3 full time hots and 4 ignition hots with fuses on each install one before making mods and it will make everything go easer

 

I just purchased on of these "painless" wiring blocks from Geno's. Where did you mount mount yours?