I do not know the guy, and not arguing any of that. All I am saying is it is about physics, and in his case, the "zz intake" HAD to have hurt volume or velocity or both for it to make less power over a stock piece is all I am saying. And it could have hurt volume/velocity by any of the ways I had mentioned (poor design/poorly developed/poorly manufactured/poorly installed)

 

Air alone does not make power…air plus fuel = power

 

Wicked Diesel in Abingdon, VA, has some and usually keeps them in stock. Quite a bit cheaper than most springs I've seen. He has lots of other cool parts too. Tac

 

I can agree with both arguments over stock vs aftermarket parts as far as HP gains go, but thats neither here nor there. I have to say that the idea of dropping a valve due to the fact that "other people have been able to push it so im going to try and do it too" just doesn't sound like fun to me. the reason im looking at new springs and new titanium retainers is that my truck has a lot of hard mile on it with the engine at max rev (use to bounce of rev limiter a lot till i removed it). I figure that if it only cost a few hundred that its alot better to go on and spend it versus the possibility of thousands the next time i lay into it. So if anyone reads this that has done the spring and retainer mods please let me know what you think of them and where you got them from. Thanks

 

O HE HAD PLENTY AND I DO SAY PLENTY OF FUEL!!!!

 

I didn't change my own springs when I went with the H2 cam & springs,... but the shop that did the work told me it was NO big deal. They simply brought the piston in each cylinder to TDC and then the piston to valve clearance,.. which isn't much,.. was sufficient to depress the oem spring against the piston top and remove the keepers and then change to the Sportsman springs. That's what I was told. Hope that helps.

Also I will tell you that it's been about 20k miles with my HD springs and recently we took the springs off and I had them tested and they now need a .025 shim to keep their original pressure. I tell you this because just the fact that you change to a heavier spring doesn't mean that don't need cking periodically to maintain the same spring pressure. You don't want to find out the hard way with a valve to piston kiss.

 

Ive got Dons F1 springs through Tim Barber(Tim in VA). I guarantee its good insurance. I personally would not keep pushing my luck and thats why I went with the better springs. But hey, Im just a dumb West Virginia Hillbilly...what do I know

 

UH, thanks I would have thought ANYONE that belongs on this site assumed/knows what you just said, as well as the fact that our Diesel's, and I am especially sure a 1100 HP one at that, has "Got Fuel"

 

This is all too confusing.I've had my truck for around 9 months and I can't seem to find the spark plugs.

air/fuel/big/little turbos/stock/aftermarket/springs/nosprings.

Only thing I can say that on every race motor I've ever had,that had the big high lift and long duration cam(or cams IE DOHC type operations) I put on the extra big tension springs along with the proper roller rockers,lifters,push rods,stud girdles,light weight strong retainers.YADAYADA. Some of my gas motors were turning in excess of 8500.I see no difference between the different type of motors.Everthing goes round and round,or up and down.

You need everything relative to your HP/TQ expectations or it will all come flying apart at the most inopportune times.Like on a big money run or pull. Only difference is the type of fuel you require and the intentions of your engine.

 

Physics is only 1/2 of the equation. Electronics are the other 1/2.

These trucks can react very differently to the same mods and nodoby seems to be able to explain why. The electronics have to be playing a big role.

 

cant you also just have a machine shop shim your oem springs to do what is neede as well

 

I get your point, and I have to assume you get mine. There always seems to be teh "runner" out of the bunch. Take 2 trucks, same year, make, model, options, etc.... and one of them will be faster for no other reason than "x" truck was made on Monday and "y" truck was made on Friday. WAY back in the day (again) I had another Mustang and with a set of underdrive pulley's, and a K&N air filter, ran 13.70's all day long with 3.08's. Friends cars with gears, exhaust, pullie's, K&N, were running the same (13.70's) I just had the "runner" out of the bunch. No explanation for it.

But, back to the other point, you can not change the fact that improving air flow, whether it be velocity or volume, will make more power. One motor it may make a bigger improvement on than another. If it does not, then that means the part that was changed did NOT improve air flow. It is impossible to improve airflow and make less power. That is of course, if it is tuned for the additional gain in voulume/velocity. There are so many variables that I can get into that would be so boring (and I may have to anyway) but it still comes down to: Improve airflow=more power

 

I know what you're saying about the occasional car not following the trend, but these particular trucks seem to have much more variation in how they react to the same mods. You could do the same mods to 5 different trucks and get 5 completely different results. Just take the 2006's for example. You can put a TST on an '06 truck and it rocks, then put one on an 06.5 and it drives fine but melts pistons.

 

That's exactly what I'm gonna do on these Sportsman springs,.. their too expensive to replace. If you're asking about shimming the oem springs,.. I'm not sure about that but I wouldn't think that would be feasible or everyone would just do that instead of buying these expensive HD springs for their trucks.

 

Yes, you are right there.